I just swapped a B16A2 into my CX and it won't start. It cranks fine, but won't start. I have fuel and now I have spark. I think. Here is what happened. I didn't have spark initially so I pulled my cap to take a quick peek at my dizzy and found the sensor/ignitor whatever was missing. So I swapped in one from my LS motor and assume I have spark now. However, I didn't pay attention to the position of the rotor when putting the dizzy back on, so it may be 180*. I swapped it over and it installed much easier, but I still don't know if it is on right. When trying to start it then, the car instantly made some sort of honk or suction noise--maybe a small backfire? It was then I realized my wires may be in the wrong order for the dizzy. So, what do I do? When trying to start now, the car just spins effortlessly--it's like the starter isn't spinning the engine. It cranks very fast and has a higher pitched whine when cranking than before. What is the order for the cylinders? How much damage could I have done with a 180* rotated rotor? What is my next step? I checked the plugs and they are all wet with gasoline (I assume from the repeated attempts at starting) so I pulled them and am letting them dry.

 

Sounds like the engine is flooded, causing low compression in the cylinders. You may need to drain and refill the engine with fresh oil. Also check for spark at each of the plugs. Is your mechanical timing dead on? Is the CEL ON?

 

I put fresh oil in 3 days ago when finishing the swap. I'll be checking for spark as soon as I get another set of hands down there to help me (later today). I don't know about the mechanical timing. The CEL is on, but the reading I got was 31, which makes no sense. I'm about to check it again.

 

Does the oil smell of gasoline? You also may want to compression test the cylinders. Also double check the CEL code.

 

It appears it is two codes--10 and 21. There is a plug on the harness that doesn't go to a sensor by the manifold--that may be 10. 21, I have no clue. I'll go smell the oil. I know the sparkplugs were definitely wet and smelled of gasoline.

 

Those are codes for the IAT sensor and the VTEC solenoid, neither of which would cause a no-start condition. Check for spark and possible flooding.

This distributor info may also help:

 

Thanks, that helps. I somehow actually installed the dizzy backwards (180*). I hope this didn't damage anything. It's still not running.

 

Ok, I have spark (at least on Cylinder #1) and fuel. The car definitely made a popping noise when I first turned it over--perhaps a backfire? I believe I must have flooded it trying to start it these last few days with no ignitor. So, what are my options? What else could it be? I have spark and fuel--I just need air then.

 

your flooded out sounds like so if i was you i would either take all the plugs out and take an air hose to all the cylinders or just keep turning it over it will spit some of the fuel out then let it sit with the plugs out and then try again in the morning see if u got spark on all wires and make sure its a strong spark Orange= weak, Blue=Strong the popping noise sounds like it still maybe be out of time but then again it could of been all the gas in the chambers too

 

The spark was blue. The last time this happened, I owned a Nissan Sentra. I let it air out overnight with the plugs out and it started the next morning. It was a bit rough at first, but it started. I'm hoping the same happens here. The engine was pulled from a running car, so I assume the timing is fine.

 

i feel what ur going throw im having the same problem with my 95 civic wit my ls swap the only down fall is mine is in time diss is right on an no spark on cyl #4 so i feel you man

 

Ok, I'm at the end here. The oil on the dipstick smells of gasoline. Am I ****ed? Can this be fixed, or am I going to need a bunch of new parts/rebuild?

 

If you drain the gasoline-diluted motor oil and replace with fresh oil, you should be good to go.

 

Explain please.

 

So far, I've checked my grounds, starter and made sure there were actually pistons in there. The starter cranks the entire engine, so it's connected. I get spark. I have fuel--maybe too much. I looked at the pistons through the spark plug hole and found all 4 were wet/shiny. I assume this is bad.

I've turned the distributor towards the back of the car entirely--is this the correct/safe way to run it?

 

Gasoline dilutes and thins motor oil. This can lead to low compression, which will prevent the engine from starting.

 

Do you think that it possible at this point? It was likely fairly flooded at some point, as I didn't know the coil was out of the dizzy. I have spark and fuel, so I assume all I need is air. Also, I keep hearing about the ground on the t-stat. Can you explain this?

 

Yes

You also need cylinder compression.

If the ground on the t-stat housing were disconnected, then you would have neither spark nor fuel.

Drain and refill the oil.

 

Gotcha. Doing that now.

 

Alright, I changed it. Should I let the combustion chambers air out for a bit before trying to start it? I don't want to flood again and waste another $25 in oil.

 

Yeah, pull the plugs and let the cylinders air out if they are still wet with fuel. Once dry, try cranking the engine again.

 

That's probably going to take a few hours. I'll let it be until tomorrow and try then. I'll keep this thread updated. Thank you for your help so far!

 

Oh, should I try starter fluid in the TB?

 

No, fuel is not your problem.

 

What about the distributor position? Should I keep it rotated all the way back?