Building a B18c1 and wanna know what to expect....... pls help
Ok so i bought a used Gsr block from a local tuner shop and it turned out to have blown rings...........that was bunk
so now i have to rebuild it and i was told that i should use ITR pistons to get some power..but ive seen some of my friends go that way and all they get is high 13s 1/4mile times. idk how much power cus they wont say but im guessing 190ish. I was also told P30 pistons would be better...but i cant find any info only about B18c1 blocks with p30 pistons
so has any1 used them or know if it will be a good set up cus i already bought them so my set up will be:
B18c1
stock bore
p30 pistons
Gsr head
Blox flat faced valves
Blox springs and retainers
skunk2 stage2 cams(non pro series)
Bolt ons:
gready cam gear
skunk2 pro series intake manifold
skunk2 70mm TB
password jdm plastic intake gasket
password jdm CF intake
ProFab header
2.5 in exhaust (no cat)
Blox fuel pressure regulator
Does any have an idea of where ill be in HP and Tq once im all done and i decide to go get tuned?
Or has any1 used those pistons to a similar set up that can share?
so now i have to rebuild it and i was told that i should use ITR pistons to get some power..but ive seen some of my friends go that way and all they get is high 13s 1/4mile times. idk how much power cus they wont say but im guessing 190ish. I was also told P30 pistons would be better...but i cant find any info only about B18c1 blocks with p30 pistons
so has any1 used them or know if it will be a good set up cus i already bought them so my set up will be:
B18c1
stock bore
p30 pistons
Gsr head
Blox flat faced valves
Blox springs and retainers
skunk2 stage2 cams(non pro series)
Bolt ons:
gready cam gear
skunk2 pro series intake manifold
skunk2 70mm TB
password jdm plastic intake gasket
password jdm CF intake
ProFab header
2.5 in exhaust (no cat)
Blox fuel pressure regulator
Does any have an idea of where ill be in HP and Tq once im all done and i decide to go get tuned?

Or has any1 used those pistons to a similar set up that can share?
what were you expecting to get from a tuner shop? especially a used block! LOL
my suggestion: can those P30 slugs.
about your friends running high 13s with type r pistons, that is pretty good IMO
my personal best was 13.5 on a bone stock LS/VTEC on MH slicks.
my suggestion: can those P30 slugs.
about your friends running high 13s with type r pistons, that is pretty good IMO
my personal best was 13.5 on a bone stock LS/VTEC on MH slicks.
Id ditch the hi comp. valves, p30 pistons in a gsr is pushing it already. If there is any decking/milling to the block/head that will put you over 12:1 with standard compression valves, and dont wast your money on that intake if you wanna make power
I see a lot of parts on that list that would need to be tuned, yet I don't see any tuning equipment...
I take it you already have some kind of engine management system and a good, reliable tuner?
I take it you already have some kind of engine management system and a good, reliable tuner?
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Thank you guys for the feedback ......uhm yes I plan on getting rid of that intake....and yes I have en ecu on chrome but no tunner. Haven't really made up my mind yet. It needs to be a tunner from Cali. But Im hoping for 200+ to the wheels... Would that be likely for my set up?
who said anything about an intake? we said not to use those pistons.
Forget about making 200 WHP with the components you've just listed. Stock GSR will put down about 150 to the wheels max.
The only thing you have listed that will increase your HP are the
skunk2 pro series intake manifold
skunk2 70mm TB
password jdm CF intake
ProFab header
2.5 in exhaust (no cat)
everything else is just fluff.
Why even bother with the other stuff? The only thing that cam is going to do is shift your power band a little either up or down the RPM scale. Why are you buying adjustable cam gears? you don't need them.
Cams, springs, retainers and valves are all overkill IMO.
forget about that stupid gasket man. Just use OEM honda stuff. Do you have a particular interest in throwing away your money? I mean seriously? Why would you upgrade your valvetrain if you're just going to use stock/near stock CR pistons with no boost?
I would get all that stuff if I was boosting, but for a stock motor, you're wasting your money IMO.
Take a look at this and tell me what you think...
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...16a/index.html
Forget about making 200 WHP with the components you've just listed. Stock GSR will put down about 150 to the wheels max.
The only thing you have listed that will increase your HP are the
skunk2 pro series intake manifold
skunk2 70mm TB
password jdm CF intake
ProFab header
2.5 in exhaust (no cat)
everything else is just fluff.
Why even bother with the other stuff? The only thing that cam is going to do is shift your power band a little either up or down the RPM scale. Why are you buying adjustable cam gears? you don't need them.
Cams, springs, retainers and valves are all overkill IMO.
forget about that stupid gasket man. Just use OEM honda stuff. Do you have a particular interest in throwing away your money? I mean seriously? Why would you upgrade your valvetrain if you're just going to use stock/near stock CR pistons with no boost?
I would get all that stuff if I was boosting, but for a stock motor, you're wasting your money IMO.
Take a look at this and tell me what you think...
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...16a/index.html
The only way to increase HP on a naturally aspirated motor is to either increase air flow (IM, headers, throttle body, intake pipe, exhaust, test pipe, etc.) or to increase compression ratio.
While increasing air flow is good, increasing your compression ratio will yield you the most results.
While increasing air flow is good, increasing your compression ratio will yield you the most results.
will a hks hi power 55mm(2.1") restrict power to a 2.5" profab header on a b18c hatch
i will be using a adjustable test pipe with 2.25" flange and 2.5" flange on the other side
i will be using a adjustable test pipe with 2.25" flange and 2.5" flange on the other side
who said anything about an intake? we said not to use those pistons.
Forget about making 200 WHP with the components you've just listed. Stock GSR will put down about 150 to the wheels max.
The only thing you have listed that will increase your HP are the
skunk2 pro series intake manifold
skunk2 70mm TB
password jdm CF intake
ProFab header
2.5 in exhaust (no cat)
everything else is just fluff.
Why even bother with the other stuff? The only thing that cam is going to do is shift your power band a little either up or down the RPM scale. Why are you buying adjustable cam gears? you don't need them.
Cams, springs, retainers and valves are all overkill IMO.
forget about that stupid gasket man. Just use OEM honda stuff. Do you have a particular interest in throwing away your money? I mean seriously? Why would you upgrade your valvetrain if you're just going to use stock/near stock CR pistons with no boost?
I would get all that stuff if I was boosting, but for a stock motor, you're wasting your money IMO.
Take a look at this and tell me what you think...
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...16a/index.html
Forget about making 200 WHP with the components you've just listed. Stock GSR will put down about 150 to the wheels max.
The only thing you have listed that will increase your HP are the
skunk2 pro series intake manifold
skunk2 70mm TB
password jdm CF intake
ProFab header
2.5 in exhaust (no cat)
everything else is just fluff.
Why even bother with the other stuff? The only thing that cam is going to do is shift your power band a little either up or down the RPM scale. Why are you buying adjustable cam gears? you don't need them.
Cams, springs, retainers and valves are all overkill IMO.
forget about that stupid gasket man. Just use OEM honda stuff. Do you have a particular interest in throwing away your money? I mean seriously? Why would you upgrade your valvetrain if you're just going to use stock/near stock CR pistons with no boost?
I would get all that stuff if I was boosting, but for a stock motor, you're wasting your money IMO.
Take a look at this and tell me what you think...
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...16a/index.html
theres so many dynos with those pistons in a b18c that makes alot of power. CR is not gonna be the same. its gonna be around 12:0 and thats not stock or even near it. also, the internals are the most important imo. with all those upgraded bolt on parts will add hp but is overkill if the motor cant suck or push out that much air. thats where the cams comes in. why do you think people upgrade their cams for?...more power. makes the vtec open up bigger and in turn sucks more air. cams dont shift your power band...timing does and to do that you need cam gears...do all those things you wanna do but make sure the valves clear the pistons because its gonna be close with a gsr head. after everything get it tuned.
I don't know how I feel about putting a smaller diameter piston in my motor. It just seems like the rings would have to stretch further in order to create a proper seal. It just doesn't seem like a very smart thing to do IMO.
People upgrade their cams to match the piston, rod, turbo, injector, IM, combination they have. The HP increase of installing a cam without increasing CR would be negligible, hence: fluff IMO.
Whoever told you that cams don't shift the power band around has been lying to you. I don't know what else to say about that.
Timing does not shift your power band! The only thing timing does is help to increase HP output by properly timing the spark of the plugs to prevent detonation and optimize the burn of the air/fuel mixture.
Adjustable cam gears will only be beneficial if the cams you are running make it so that you cannot achieve the proper timing given the factory gears; therefore, the cam gears AND timing both depend on the cams. You have it all back wards. You make it seem like the timing is what will determine the power band. You have to understand that the cam profile is what determines the power band. Timing and adjustable cam gears just make it possible for a particular cam to be functional in the given motor.
The most important thing in this whole discussion is piston to valve clearance which again depend on the piston and cam used. The setup has to be properly matched otherwise........

Anyway, I'm not trying to be hard-headed, but I'm sticking to my guns on this one. Your logic is flawed IMO.
The bottom line though is that chances are, this guy could bolt on all these parts, get it tuned and everything will work fine. My biggest problem with the setup is the pistons he wants to use. If he can find a better matched piston, then I say the rest of the stuff would be beneficial.
I think he should just replace the rings and keep the GSR pistons, and forget about all the fluff. Unless he can afford some better pistons. I should say "better MATCHED pistons."
Last edited by aasarsak; Mar 20, 2009 at 08:03 AM. Reason: wrote cam gear, meant to say cam
AASARSAK
I'm curious to hear what you think he should run in his setup.
I'm not disagreeing with you, just want to know what you recommend.
I'm curious to hear what you think he should run in his setup.
I'm not disagreeing with you, just want to know what you recommend.
Homofob hero,
People upgrade their cams to match the piston, rod, turbo, injector, IM, combination they have. The HP increase of installing a cam without increasing CR would be negligible, hence: fluff IMO.
Adjustable cam gears will only be beneficial if the cams you are running make it so that you cannot achieve the proper timing given the factory gears; therefore, the cam gears AND timing both depend on the cams. You have it all back wards. You make it seem like the timing is what will determine the power band. You have to understand that the cam profile is what determines the power band. Timing and adjustable cam gears just make it possible for a particular cam to be functional in the given motor.
The most important thing in this whole discussion is piston to valve clearance which again depend on the piston and cam used. The setup has to be properly matched otherwise........
Anyway, I'm not trying to be hard-headed, but I'm sticking to my guns on this one. Your logic is flawed IMO.
The bottom line though is that chances are, this guy could bolt on all these parts, get it tuned and everything will work fine. My biggest problem with the setup is the pistons he wants to use. If he can find a better matched piston, then I say the rest of the stuff would be beneficial.
I think he should just replace the rings and keep the GSR pistons, and forget about all the fluff. Unless he can afford some better pistons. I should say "better MATCHED pistons."
People upgrade their cams to match the piston, rod, turbo, injector, IM, combination they have. The HP increase of installing a cam without increasing CR would be negligible, hence: fluff IMO.
Adjustable cam gears will only be beneficial if the cams you are running make it so that you cannot achieve the proper timing given the factory gears; therefore, the cam gears AND timing both depend on the cams. You have it all back wards. You make it seem like the timing is what will determine the power band. You have to understand that the cam profile is what determines the power band. Timing and adjustable cam gears just make it possible for a particular cam to be functional in the given motor.
The most important thing in this whole discussion is piston to valve clearance which again depend on the piston and cam used. The setup has to be properly matched otherwise........

Anyway, I'm not trying to be hard-headed, but I'm sticking to my guns on this one. Your logic is flawed IMO.
The bottom line though is that chances are, this guy could bolt on all these parts, get it tuned and everything will work fine. My biggest problem with the setup is the pistons he wants to use. If he can find a better matched piston, then I say the rest of the stuff would be beneficial.
I think he should just replace the rings and keep the GSR pistons, and forget about all the fluff. Unless he can afford some better pistons. I should say "better MATCHED pistons."
yes, i know different cams has different powerband but to move them into the powerband you want you would need cam gears and set it at the right timing. of course if hes using stock gsr cams then theres really no point for using cam gears but in this situation hes upgrading the valve train so he will need cam gears. i'm not a noob or a fob to that matter(racist *****). why do you have to bring up racist comments?
hes looking for more power so stock gsr pistons(~10.0 CR) aint gonna get him where he wants for a N/A. people run b16 pistons in b18 blocks all day and everyday with no problem.
ofcourse he can just replace the rings and call it a day, but he wants more power. so with b16 pistons he'll increase the CR and in return use bigger cams with the other bolt ons.
bolt ons will not give you the power you want. in order to do that you will have to upgrade the internals. bolt ons helps the motor but is not gonna make the motor as powerful as internal upgrades. put it this way, two people racing on foot. one runner and one regular guy. we give the regular guy running shoes, aerodynamic suit, and so on, but the runner will run barefoot. who do you think will win? the runner because he's internally built to run. the runners lungs, organs, heart, etc are use to running. same thing as a motor. you can add all the bolt on you want but the motor wont run as strong as if you upgrade the internals.
to the OP, your current set up is fine. theres tons of dyno with similar setup like yours. research and you'll find them. i'm in process of building a ls/vtec with itr pistons. i chose itr because i wanna keep my CR at 11:0 - 11:5 cuz its my dd. that way i can get a good tune using 91+ gas.
Last edited by hmoobhero; Mar 20, 2009 at 09:13 AM.
homofob hero,
I made my recommendation based on the idea that he will not be using those P30 pistons. If you read my post, you would see why I recommend against the P30 pistons.
As to your comment about the cams and powerband , you didn't know that cams shift the powerband because in your previous post, you stated that
if you know now, it is only because I just told you they do.
WTF are you talking about?
I'm sure you understand, but just to be CRYSTAL clear, the only component of the valvetrain being upgraded which MAY neccessitate the use of adjustable cam gears MIGHT be the cams, not the valves or the springs/retainers.
that is fine and dandy, but I still think it is not wise for reasons that I have already stated.
Tyounin608,
I think he should save a little more money, and do some research, and find a piston/valve/cam combo that will yield the results he is looking for. Mixing and matching parts might WORK, but there is a right way to do things, and there is the other way...
I made my recommendation based on the idea that he will not be using those P30 pistons. If you read my post, you would see why I recommend against the P30 pistons.
As to your comment about the cams and powerband , you didn't know that cams shift the powerband because in your previous post, you stated that
I'm sure you understand, but just to be CRYSTAL clear, the only component of the valvetrain being upgraded which MAY neccessitate the use of adjustable cam gears MIGHT be the cams, not the valves or the springs/retainers.
Tyounin608,
I think he should save a little more money, and do some research, and find a piston/valve/cam combo that will yield the results he is looking for. Mixing and matching parts might WORK, but there is a right way to do things, and there is the other way...
B18c1
stock bore :bore and hone to the next size
p30 pistons :itr or rs machine itr pistons
Gsr head : good vj's will yield 5 to 7 whp increase alone
Blox flat faced valves :not required
Blox springs and retainers: match the VT to the cam
skunk2 stage2 cams(non pro series): decent cam
Bolt ons:
greedy cam gear : ok
skunk2 pro series intake manifold : ok
skunk2 70mm TB : ok
password jdm plastic intake gasket : why
password jdm CF intake : tuned length 3" tube with VS will be better
ProFab header : ok
2.5 in exhaust (no cat) : I run 3"
Blox fuel pressure regulator : why
Does any have an idea of where ill be in HP and Tq once im all done and i decide to go get tuned? : I don't know. I did not assmeble it nor due I have a e-dyno.
assball sack,
homofob is racist. do you know what that stands for? if you dont then plz dont use it.
my recommendation is to use the p30 if he wants more power. also obviously when you upgrade the cams you will need cam gears. i didnt say anything bout using them with just the valve springs and retainers. if you would read my post, i said if using stock cams with stock pistons theres no point.
also why would you suggest using stock gsr pistons when hes asking for more power??? like i said earlier people have used b16 pistons in b18 blocks with no problems.
homofob is racist. do you know what that stands for? if you dont then plz dont use it.
my recommendation is to use the p30 if he wants more power. also obviously when you upgrade the cams you will need cam gears. i didnt say anything bout using them with just the valve springs and retainers. if you would read my post, i said if using stock cams with stock pistons theres no point.
also why would you suggest using stock gsr pistons when hes asking for more power??? like i said earlier people have used b16 pistons in b18 blocks with no problems.
Last edited by hmoobhero; Mar 20, 2009 at 09:31 AM.
i had similar questions to my set up not to long ago. i wanted to run p30 pistsons in my gsr as well, if i didnt find this block they would be in my motor right now.
i got a good deal on a block around my way and picked that up for 700. it had:
SRP 11:1 pistons
.20 over
JE Pro seal rings
eagle rods
acl race bearings
type r crank + oil pump
str block guard
competition clutch stage 3 clutch
fidanza 7.5lb flywheel
i matched this with a gsr head with:
crower stage 2-3/4 race cams
skunk2 cam gears
supertech dual valve springs
supertech titanium retainers
supertach flat faced valves
skunk2 intake manifold
hytech replica header
2.5 inch exhaust no cat
milled .030
cleaned
ALL brand new gaskets and seals
and as tuning goes, i have a socketed p28 and i plan to run crome. i will be purchasing 310 cc injectors (i was told these might be maxed out so my tuner says i should think about 440's) my goal is also 200 whp and i was told it was possible. if anyone says otherwise please do so.
i think your set up is capable of 180-190 whp depending on the tuner.
i got a good deal on a block around my way and picked that up for 700. it had:
SRP 11:1 pistons
.20 over
JE Pro seal rings
eagle rods
acl race bearings
type r crank + oil pump
str block guard
competition clutch stage 3 clutch
fidanza 7.5lb flywheel
i matched this with a gsr head with:
crower stage 2-3/4 race cams
skunk2 cam gears
supertech dual valve springs
supertech titanium retainers
supertach flat faced valves
skunk2 intake manifold
hytech replica header
2.5 inch exhaust no cat
milled .030
cleaned
ALL brand new gaskets and seals
and as tuning goes, i have a socketed p28 and i plan to run crome. i will be purchasing 310 cc injectors (i was told these might be maxed out so my tuner says i should think about 440's) my goal is also 200 whp and i was told it was possible. if anyone says otherwise please do so.
i think your set up is capable of 180-190 whp depending on the tuner.
but depends on what chasis the motor is going into. Weight matters a whole lot!
Thanks to every 1 who is replying.............keep the replys coming i wanna know more from any1 who knows or has used these pistons or similar set ups...
but as far as the argument(aasarsak) goes for the p30 pistons. the p30's are out the jdm sir2. the bore is the same as the stock gsr... the only difference is the dome the dome is a little higher then the itr pistons.... and with a gsr head the chambers a little smaller therefor all together im raising the compression to almost 12:1 there for i should create a little more power right?
but as far as the argument(aasarsak) goes for the p30 pistons. the p30's are out the jdm sir2. the bore is the same as the stock gsr... the only difference is the dome the dome is a little higher then the itr pistons.... and with a gsr head the chambers a little smaller therefor all together im raising the compression to almost 12:1 there for i should create a little more power right?
Racism: noun - a belief or doctrine that inherent differences among the various human races determine cultural or individual achievement, usually involving the idea that one's own race is superior and has the right to rule others.
Homophobic: noun - unreasoning fear of or antipathy toward homosexuals and homosexuality.
Following your logic, let's call homophob "A" and racist "B." You are saying A = B, yet homophobia has nothing to do with race. It has to do with sexual orientation; therefore, A is not equal to B my friend, and your argument fails yet again.

I'm suggesting that he use the correct piston for the piston/cam/rod combo he is planning to run. It's not so much that I'm suggesting that he use the gsr pistons as much as I'm suggesting that he NOT use the P30 pistons. Again, there is the right way to do things, and there is the other way. It's all up to him...





