So i pcked up this b18a from a wrecked Integra. The guy told me that for 250 bucks i could have ANYTHING i wanted from the car. Took the engine, seats and brake conversion. Everything including the prop. valve and master cylinder. After talking to some buddies there telling me to go with a b16. I was thinking ls/Vtec. What do you guys think b16 or ls/Vtec? Or even turbo?

 

has some nice pull to it. pop a turbo on it and it freaking wreaks almost any other street car lol. talking bout evos and stis

 

hands down the best thing you can ever do to an ef is install a B series.

 

Yeah its worth the time.. LS has alot of potential and you can pop the LS in then when you get more cash go LS vtec then when you get even more cash go LS vtec turbo. Also provided you have a SI or HF there isnt wiring needed just change the computer to a Pr4.

 

listen the engine you have is atleast 17 years old making it not soo great of a base in the name of performance, you cant get much out of an low comp engine which Iam sure the b18a probably is, both turbo and lsvtec requires a good set of rings,bearings,bolts,gaskets which cant be expected to be great with high mileage and +17 years of age. IMO sell the b18a as a longblock for like 200 bucks and buy yourself a b20(high comp version) from an importer for like 500. youll have an much fresher engine both in age and mileage not to mention an extra dissplacement for just 300 bucks more! remember the b20z even though comes ob2 can easily be wired and installed ob0 (actually its no different than an b18a) once you keep all parts off the b18a thats required to do the swap, take the tranny,axles, intake manifold,exhaust manifold,tb,dizzy,starter,alternator,ecu off the b18a and simply wire the new b20 as if you would the b18a and your done!

 

I wouldn't necessarily do that - yeah you could go ahead ands ell the ls and buy a b20...but your prices are off as well as some of your info - huge difference between converting a b20 to obd0 and taking a b18a that already is and wiring it...

I would probably go over the ls - doubt I would even go as far as a full rebuild but there are tons of options to the extent of replacing the pistons with pr3/p30s and tons of options for the motor..

 

hahaha how on earth am I off? I actually did all that myself to my own car?

yes the b20 comes with all sorts of wires and plugs the obd0's do not have but your not using the obd2 ecu nor the harness nor the dizzy, that is why I clearly said for him to held on to his original obd0 ecu,harness and dizzy, you can just use all that comes with the b18a and just bolt them right on to the b20, all the parts I listed can be bolted right on even the dizzy, a b20 is a b18 its just a bored out one and by using the parts I recommended you are just converting it from obd2 to obd0 basically, all the sensors that come in extra with the b20 such as the knock sensor and so on can be unwired, it results in no problems since you are using the obd0 ecu that comes with b18a, plus how am I off with the prices? how much do you think a b20 go's for? would you like a 1000 of them listed for under 600? if so just look at importer rates or just simply look an 96+ crv engine on car-part.com to find 1!

 

they can list for under 600 great - but you forget to think about anything like the cost to ship you aren't getting a b20 to your door for 500 from an importer...and personally I'm curious if you are going to reccomend the b20 but not the b18 why you say to use the old dizzy instead of a new one or even replacing the cap and rotor?

there is more of a difference to a b20 than just being bored over

ever look and compare b18/b20 heads? compare some combustion chambers...compare the cams between a b20 and b18

 

Correct unless somehow you manage to get the rare p8r head on your b20. b20b users use the LS cams all the time because they have a bigger lobe etc. But as stated before the b20z has the same cams. Iv had a boosted b20 and it was fun as hell because of the torque the motor produces, but it does lack in the top end somewhat. So it all depends on what you want to do with your car, whether it be for a peppy daily, to a summer only car, drag racing, auto cross. Each motor has it's perks and it's draw backs depending on what you want to do with the car. You may want to think about this first before making an decisions on keeping the car.

The LS is a great platform to start with, decent hp/tq numbers etc. Comp is ~9:1 which is a good for boost if you choose to just rebuild it dpenending on the mileage of the car.

The b20 is also fun just in it's stock form. b20b has 8.8:1 comp ratio 126hp 131tq and b20z has I believe 9.6:1 which gives it ~146hp 133tq at the flywheel. It feels alot faster than a LS due to the substantial torque difference ~20ft lbs at the flywheel, but in actuality, I could only net a 15.5 in a full interior with a rollbar in my 91 hatch, which I'v seen LS's go 15.0 - 14.9, but I am not the greatest driver in the world either lol.

I'v personally had both a b20b and a LS motor. However my b20 came with Crower 62403 cams in it and it actually made pretty good power up top with those cams on a pr4 untuned.

Also don't believe the hype when someone tells you "oh the sleeves are weak" (referring to the b20) It's all in the tuning, this goes for any motor though. There is an integra on the boosted b20 thread in the FI area ~600hp SFWD car on stock b20 sleeves. People pop sleeves in b20s because of poor tuning, yes the b20 is just an 84mm LS motor and the sleeves are thinner but this does not mean if you boost it they will crack. Like I said, I'v owned a boosted b20b running 9psi and never had a hint of problems with it.

Again it all comes down to what you want to do with the car. Also congrats on the steal for 250 bucks you got anything, thats a damn good deal considering the pricing for a complete LS changeover and the rear disk conversion.

 

sorry DTA but Iam thinking that you missunderstood me, are you thinking that Iam talking about the b20vtec? cause Iam refering to a b20 non-vtec!

there is nothing,absolutely nothing he needs in extra parts considering he has everything he needs to do the b18a swap! see it is the ecu that is an issue not the engine it self when it comes to wiring, all b18a's,b18b's,b20's are fairly alike and the only needed parts to take a 2000 model b18b,b20z and drop it in an da integra is the engine it self, you just simply wire everything that was wired with your orignal b18a and leave the rest alone, it would have been an issue if you were trying to use the original b18b obd2b ecu, than you would have been in need of more wiring and would have had cel's blinking if you has sensors unpluged, you do not need shiping if you have an importer near you which 90% of probably do! I had mine droped off for 20 bucks for a 20km drive! and if infact you are talking about non-vtecs b20s you are wayy off, the b20 is basically an b18, it has the exact same head,combustion chamber,valves,etc. internally the only difference between the two are bore,sleeves to acheive that bore so bore again and cams and nothing else? you also might be refering to the p8r head which does have a difference of chamber and valve size however its for the owners benefit to find one if he can as its no issue what so ever to run one,its the same story plug and play, though finding a p8r b20 is hell they only came in the jdm market and with only a certain year model that wasnt even sold that much, they are considered one of the rarest b series engines!

oh sorry and you need the old dizzy to run with your obdo ecu, I already told you that!
you can not run an obd2 dizzy on a obd0 ecu

and for the guy above the b20z or high comp b20b that I mentioned do come with ls cams there is absolutely no difference, the difference comes for the low comp b20 users,they had shitty cams but I never said buy an low comp! the b20z will out run an ls both in the low and high end!

 

I'm not going to dignify this with taking my time to respond


you sir are a moron and should never post giving somebody advice again....

go do some research and you will find how stupid you just made yourself sound and look

 

WTF! dude I have nothing to say to a guy who thinks the b20 has a different head than a b18(both even have the same fcukin damn code moron), that says the b20z cams are different(again same code *****), who says they are not the same engines except for the bore size(the whole fcukin honda world has excepted it like that but dumbfcuk says nooo it aint), I aint gonna reply to a guy who asks why wouldnt you use the new dizzy on the swap(obviously has no experience, longblocks do not come with dizzy's ***get, neither would the b20 obd2 work!), I suggest you yourself do more investigation before you smart talk smart ***, as I said I atleast did this swap unlike you who does e-swaps and e-builds

here read this before you make yourself look more so like a clown
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/b20-non-vtec-faq-guide-including-p8r-head-information-1467903/

 

The OP was wanting orginally asking about going LS/VTEC or even turbo, but I was just giving him both options of the low comp and the high comp version if so chooses to go the b20 route instead of the LS route.

 

LS/V if you want reliability here are the steps. https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

 

bro sorry but how the hell did you run a 15.5 with a b20 in an ef? specially with the cams you said you have, I ran mid 14s with a completely stock non-vtec b20z,all I had were the ls **** and simple bolt-ons and that run was with shitty tires? for gods sake people with heavy *** dc's run better than that with stock b20z's, and please be a little clearer with your typing man!

dear god this thread got me pumped, fcukin hate losers like dta who think they are the **** and know it all what an idiot! atleast fcukin talk about something you are alittle familiar about!

 

I would stick with the b18a ls engine man. i love mine. and ls/v is the way to go too if you decide to. low end end torque with the high revving topend of vtec... ahh got to love a honda. oh and by the i ran a 9.6 in the eighth with a mildly built ls b18a and a 14.7 in the quarter. both of which were with a .028 r/t

 

wow, some people getting pretty butt hurt over this topic. lmao. imo if the guy said 250 take whatever.... make sure you take EVERYthing needed for the swap. axles, linkage, (to cut), harness, ecu, ect.... thats not a bad deal. the b20, yes its a good swap, but for 250? show me where you can spend that much and get a COMPLETE b20 swap??? you can't. dude, its your car, do what you want and don't let immature jack asses tell you otherwise... lol. and as for the ls and the b20 being totally different, well, do some research before you start posting stupid ****, whoever posted that above. a boosted ls would be a very quick daily driver. and done right with 12psi, can net over 300 hp. that to me, is more than enough for the drive to school/ work. hell, 10 psi will get you in the 12sec. range, again done right. op, you should really check out the integra forum faq, and do some digging. also, read some of the threads in there. there are alot of very knowledgeable people in there. good luck with your build, and if you have another tech question, hopefully you don't get assinine answers like you did this time.

 

I also said that I am not the best driver in the world either. All season Street tires + torque + shitty track prep + pr4 untuned on 403 NA cams.. I also got the car like this and it was used for autocross and first time drag racing at the track...thats how I ran a 15.5.

No worries though, I just had some bad info, I edited my post so it is not passed around like the plague.

 

i havent agreed with v8eater sometimes in the allmotor forum,but i agree with him here. for 250 i would strip the car,keep what you need for the swap,sell the rest[seats,interior,reardisc brakes,ls motor,etc...] and put it to a b20. we bought my bro's b20 from a local import company for 600$ picked up with a 3 month warranty,and we got our pick of the "litter". the b20 is gonna be at least a 96 so its alot newer,less miles,and less likey to be beat on,since they were automatic and in a sport comact.
if i had to do over again i would have got a b20. i got a ls from a da like you and it smoked to high heaven. 1qt of oil a week. its been rebuilt now and will be a ls-v,but i still should have went b20. i was wanting something to put in a go,not take back out and rebuild.

 

Fantastic .... a bench racing which should I get and what is better thread.....!!!


sheesh.

 

im not telling whats faster or which he should get. it sounds like he doesnt want to rebuild and he just wants something he can drop in a be reliable. i think the newer b20 from a sports utility that most likely had a easy life would be better than a older ls from a da that has probably had the **** ran out of it.

 

Your Posts NEVER seem to help...

Always quick to point out BS, but never to added anything but more BS..


Anyway...

Keep the b18a.. That motor as long as its in good order, will be fine... I personally think b20's are overrated.. THAT is just my opinion, but you have a good starting point.. no worries

 

i have a b18a with i/h/e/ctr crank pulley and i loooveee it..its really a blast to drive.

 

given the circumstances of the motor, either rebuild or sell, unless the miles were low and you see no leaking from anything major.

I had a b20 with a p8r head on it, the intake valves were a little larger, it was a fun motor, and only paid 600 for it. Only reason im going with the LS is cause ive had it for 2 years, and picked the head and block up for 25 each. well worth the stock rebuild ive done on it.

 

all the hate in HT these days!

guys I was only pissed off which lead to my immature response, it was me blowing at DTA who thinks he knows his **** while obviously doesnt, I seem to get very mad when some guy states the opposition of what I say when Iam 1000% sure of what I did say, Iam not accurate all the time but this topic is a where I shine guys, I frigin did this swap all on my own and can tell you the outcome was amazing, no cels, amazing pull,great mpg, and not of drop of oil burnt and for over 70k of rape!

sorry guys but it just sound super wrong to say that any stock ls can be stronger than a b20z specially when dressed with the ls parts needed to do the swap!
think about it how on earth can an engine that is exactly the same yet with bigger bore,less mileage,less rape and beating on,more compression(9.2 vs 9.6) get beat by the other? when you swap the intake manifold,exhaust manilfold,ecu on a b20z you basically have a newer ls with better potential,more dissplacement and higher compression how can an old b18a be any better than that? someone above was talking about comparing the prices well I already gave you the math he has the whole swap for 250, he can sell the ls longblock alone for 200 then by a b20 for 500 and therefore be able to own a b20z(with ls parts)swap for 550bucks or basically just an extra 300 bucks more than he is already paying,IMO that will be the best 300 bucks spent!