Today I went to check v2v, p2v, and p2h. I got my cam gears put on the cams and went to torque them down. Exhaust side torqued fine. Went to do the intake cam and you know when you can feel its getting close. I get that feeling and then it gets super easy. At this time i think that i just stripped something out. So i grab the ratchet off of the bench and start backing out the cam bolt and the cam gear falls on the ground. I contacted crower today and I was told if i want i can send it back and they will see if they will warranty it. Here are the pics sorry they are blurry.

 

damn that sucks. hopefully they warranty it.

 

ouch

 

Ive had a b18b crower cam snap on me as well, they did give me a new set of cams hope it works out.

 

lol, same thing happend to my brother, he had to pay 70 bucks for a new one.

 

Are crower cams known to snap?

 

i know the feeling

 

were they brand new? i know the older ones had a problem with snapping.

 

The are older I bought them when I first started to build my motor a while back

 

mine were the new models. they did send me a new cam for free. i had to pay the shipping though. completely killed the exhaust valves. everyone of them bent since the cam broke about 8000rpm

 

Im just glad i guess that it did break right now instead of at 8 grand like yours. Ill gladly pay for shipping i just dont want to have to pay for a new cam

 

when you get the new cam just sell them,its not worth the risk if you have alot of $ in your headwork

 

What did you TQ them to? Cast iron has a different spec than cast steel.

 

Does Crower specify a diff. TQ spec with their instructions?

 

Wow after seeing that I will have to mark Crower off the list.

Thats sad when you can break a cam with handtools.

 

Torque wrench was set to 33lbs 4lbs below honda spec. The exhaust cam torqued fine. I seen it happen to a few guys after i bought mine ( few years back ). Just to make sure there was nothing wrong with my head, I took my stock cam and put it in the head and torqued it in and it spun the way it should. Both cams were installed with a good amount of assymbly lube.

 

damn,Crower

 

Skunk2 has in big letters, in there instructions, not to TQ over 22 lb.ft on there chilled cast cams. They are the same as Crower. Stock Honda cams are cast steel, I think the number is 40 lb.ft. Have not seen Crower instructions in awhile. What cam gears? I know TODA or JUN required a longer"special" bolt.

 

Looks like it could be installer error.

What's the code on the end of the cam? is it a nuthing suffix or a "-2" suffix? The "-2"s are newer and stronger. My Crower 3s are fine and have been for 35,000 miles.

Also if when you torqued it, you applied torque in a non-axial fashion you could have aggrivated the situation that broke it.

Good luck with the build.

Pirate

 

More fun to blame the Mfg. I don't need no stnkin instruction sheet.

 

haha...instruction sheets for the win but hey at least I don't see a breaker bar in any of those pictures so that is good...

 

I didnt start this thread to blame crower. I was excited to run these cams. On the cam it says 63423 and below that is CROWER 2. If its my error then its my problem to take care off ill just have to wait and get the money to buy a new cam.

 

For the most part Helms manual torque specs should be treated as "maximum" that you shouldn't use or exceed.

Certain exceptions would be rod bolts, lug nuts or flywheel bolts but most everything else if you torque to spec you'll prolly strip or break something.

[sarcastic gansta shout-out omitted for Don's sake]

 

This monkey's gone to heaven...

 

The manual said 37 but i went to 33.