I was seeing how much oil my car had the other day and I came across this. I have looked around and I cant figure out where its coming from or what it is. See for yourself.

 

um crappy pics but my guess would be that ur cam caps are leaking.

 

Camcap or VTEC solenoid gasket.

 

more than likely your cam seal.

 

^x2

 

Sorry about my pictures my camera isnt too fancy. So if im going to replace my cam seals I should just get new cams at the same time? Was wanting to go aftermarket anyway.. And will this hurt my car

 

You dont need to replace the cams to simply change the cam seal. I wouldnt change the cams unless your planning to get supporting mods and most importantly the ECU reflashed or tuned to accomidate the new cams.

 

I was planning on getting blox racing cams and the springs. It comes as a set for $430. And I was told I couldnt do much with the ECU I have wouldnt help much if I got it tuned or chipped.

And my mods are skunk 2 mani, aem intake, and greddy headers,

 

1. Do you know what kind of ECU you have?

2. I see no reason not to retune according to all these new addition's, otherwise you probably wont reap the benfits of any added power and you may incure damage from incorrect AFR's

 

p72 obd2.
my cars a 97 integra b18c also if ya needed to know that

 

Best advice is dont skip the tuning. Buy an OBD1 P28, P30, or P72 from a later model Integra/Civic, get it chipped and socketed and to make wiring simple get a conversion harness to make it compadible from your OBD2a chassis to the OBD1 ecu.

OBD1 ecu's are mostly friendly toward changes needed toward reflashing, datalogging,etc which is why your OBD2 ecu doesnt make a good canidate (mines sitting in my garage accumulating dust as of right now).

This is what I did to accomidate my LS/V into my 96' DC4 chassis, but this is a given with most additional mods.

 

Thing is though I would have trouble finding a tuner.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine-management-tuning-124/tuner-directory-2368887/

Theirs a few in Illinois and Minnesota.

 

Thank you. And how long do I have until I need to change my cam seal?

 

I'd do it now if this is happening. Theirs 3 key areas that oil leaks can develop from on that side of the head, Camcap (price ?), VTEC solenoid gasket (price ~$17.00), distributor O-ring (~$0.50).

 

So which one do I need to buy first. Above they said I needed camseals, and gasket

 

I'd say change the VTEC solenoid gasket first. Then if its still leaking pull the valve cover, take the camcap off and replace the camcap plug/seal next to the solenoid, piece of cake.

I gotta change mine too. My camcap seal is brandnew and I just replaced my dizzy o-ring but I this same issue.

 

Here is a picture pointing at the problem

 

This picture, The red pointer is where I think its coming from but at the bottom and then its going where the black is pointed

 

The gasket and camcap seal are dealership items.

 

you have the old cam plug very common oil leak their.

 

Ordered my parts just making sure this is what I want before I start into it

 

Yup, your good to go! Just be sure to follow the manual for removal/installation. Word of advice, the bolts on the VTEC solenoid and camcap need to be torqued very lightly while re-installing. Roughly (7-8ft-lbs) if I recall, the specs are listed in the Helms/OEM manual.

I strongly advise the use of a good torque wrench If you dont already have one when bolting the solenoid and camcap back togeather. Too much torque can easily strip the threads on your aluminum head.

 

The factory cam-cap/seal is hard plastic and over time it will fail because of exposure to heat. I've replaced these on both of my cars with aftermarket ones from Password JDM. They're aluminum things with two fat o-rings.

I don't know how much the factory one costs, but the Password one is $20 and I've never heard of one failing. Just another option when you're looking to replace this seal.

 

go aluminum.... oem cam cap will just fail again