I've been looking for a set of cams for a while now and decided to get sk2 pro2.my question is I have a b20vtec in my car now with itr spec pistons.would I have any p2v or v2v issues running these cams.any help will be great thanks

 

pay some1 to clay it...
if you dont clay, its a 50 50 chance.. specially if your are going to be adjusting cam gears

 

Would I be safer if I leave the gears @ 0i 0e

 

Not at all you would have a pile of metal chunks and shavings. I have measured my engines p2v, v2v, and degreed the pro2 cams. I have mine set at -1 intake +3 exhaust, that is where they degreed into spec. You have to have less over lap.

 

im personally planning to get these cams if i dont sell my b series swap, and i've talked to my tuner he says that those cams like a lot of adjustment to make power. so it is critical that you know what your clearance limits are

leaving the cams at 0,0 would be safer that advancing your cam timing, but nothing is safe without measuring.

 

Thanks for the input.I would like to degree the cams and check v2v and p2v specs but I never did this and I've spent a lot of money to mess something up cause I lak experience.I'll have to find a reputable shop in pa to help me out.

 

Where in PA are you?

 

Go through this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/%2A%2A%2Aofficial-all-motor-stock-sleeve-b20vtec-thread%2A%2A%2A-1555476/
A few people are running Pro2s with RS cast itr pistons.

 

your ok bro. you have plenty of clearance even on a slightly milled head. those RS saftey pistons have deep pockets. i have the same setup and its been tuned and the cam gears are adjusted and i take the bitch to 9500

 

DO NOT RUN YOUR MOTOR WITH PRO2's AT 0,0.

Now that I have made my point, read the installation card that came with your camshafts (or download it off of Skunk2's website). Read the installation specs, they are not at all close to OE Honda centerlines. Start somewhere in the -1 I / +3 E range. When I had Pro2's on my motor, they liked +1I/+5E. Whatever you do, do not reduce the separation between intake and exhaust valve events any smaller than the recommended installation specs, or you are liable to get valve-to-valve contact.

 

IMO it is ridiculous when a manufacturer does not grind cams to be OK at 0,0 if head/block not milled at all.

 

I don't find it rediculous when they make 20 ft-lb more torque at 4000 RPM than any other cam I have ever tried (~6 sets now).

There is a huge disclaimer on their website, and on the installation card that comes with the cam. If you are not comfortable with, or have the ability to install these camshafts with the care and attention to detail required, then they are obviously not for you. These are not drop-in and go cams. There are plenty of camshafts that novice engine builders and/or lazys can use, such as the Tuner Series Stage 2's, that still make decent power.

 

Theirs rumor the Skunk2 will be releasing newer batches of Pro's with 0,0 as newly revised centerlines, but this is only something i caught off another thread mindyou.

found here https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2520138&page=2

 

Dead wrong, that will definitely result in a engine failure, v-v contact. At a minimum use the quick settings recommended by Skunk2.

 

Absolutely, correct.

 

Since when is it RIDICULOUS to expect a customer to do their due diligence when selecting a HOT camshaft to use in their engine?

Skunk2 prints disclaimers all over the place warning customers to be cautious when installing these.

Expecting an aftermarket PERFORMANCE company to make their stuff a certain way is ridiculous.

If you put together an engine with these cams and you get v2v contact b/c you "didn't know" where to put the camshafts to install them....that's YOUR F*CKING FAULT...not the MFR's. They've supplied the information.

Now...that should make for interesting issues, to say the least. I just hope that they come up with a reliable way to distinguish the old profiles from the new ones.

What would you do to get definitive info? Put them into a cam doctor or something?

 

I'd check em with a dial indicator while the head's off cheaking for V2V clearances anyway.

 

Reread my statement and relax!
Skunk2 (and everyone else) should grind their cams to be OK (not meaning perfect) at 0,0 in a stock height engine (with stock size valves) instead of warnings, quick settings and bla-bla.
Pro2 is not that HOT for me.

Edit> BTW in a setup we run the "small" M24x with ITR spec RS Machines pistons with no problem.

 

Easy dude, kozeca knows what he's doing. He's just expressing an opinion.

 

My Bad....guess I read that in a bad mood.

I guess something got past them on the first batches.

I hear what you're saying. the cams should be in that position they recommend when they're at 0,0. But also, you can see where some dipshit would slap them in at 0,0; get v2v contact; and bitch about it after Skunk2 has put out the info NOT to set them at that.

 

I just don't feel like buying the bielben degree kit that cost 250.just to use it once.I no its safer to check clearance and degree but im not paying 250 for a tool to use it once.id rather sell the cams and go with something less agressive.

 

if you dont want to pay for the belben kit then dont. you dont want the best out of your motor then thats your decision. buying the kit to use it once is sort of a waste but its also and eye opener to how the motor actually works in relationship to the camshaft.
if you dont want to sacrifice 250 for your multi thousand dollar motor then maybe you should take up knitting or horseshoes.

 

If you decide on not taking up knitting or horseshoes then just pay someone to do it for you. It will probably cost you less than buying the kit. You never know you might learn a thing or two by watching someone else do it for you.

And another thing whatever cams you decide to get do NOT cheap out on valvetrain.

 

Is it posible to check v2v clearance with out the dial indicator.I kinda did something like this locking vtec and checking with the timing belt wraped.valve lash @ 0.and I kinda had more clearance then expected.now I don't no if not having the indicater had something to do with it.oh and please don't bash on me for trying to learn.I have the basic understanding im not a pro.thanks

 

I've been following your write up on v2v and p2v clearance.great write up thanks for the valuealble info.I laugh when peaple say do some more searching cause what im searching for the only info out there is yours.and what I no is what I learned from your write up.lol