Cam Question, NA then boost
hey guys, my goals are to make my gsr run 13's on motor before i boost so i'm not like the other guys around here running 13's on boost. I want to complete all my bolt on and get a dyno tune once i am satisfied with my all motor setup (stock internals) just external bolt ons at this time.
i want to add some cams and change out some valve springs, retainers, etc, but i notice when purchasing cams there is an option for boost cams or traditional stage 1,2,3,so on NA cams, is there a decent nice set of cams i can get that will make more power NA but also benefit me when i boost so that i don't have to change cams again? sa CTR cams or something? i have a jdm b18c at this time.
i want to add some cams and change out some valve springs, retainers, etc, but i notice when purchasing cams there is an option for boost cams or traditional stage 1,2,3,so on NA cams, is there a decent nice set of cams i can get that will make more power NA but also benefit me when i boost so that i don't have to change cams again? sa CTR cams or something? i have a jdm b18c at this time.
well i'm already running mid 14's, i don't have to run a 13 flat, would be nice, but a 13.anything will do. so with stock internals, IM, intake, full exhaust, vafc, and a lot of weight reductions (i.e, flywheel, wheels, interior,a/c, etc ect) i'm running mid 14s now, so with a good tune, traction bars, TB, under drive pulleys, Cams & rest of valve train, i believe i can pull a 13.99, even if just that..
why waste the money to run naturally aspirated then go turbo
choose one way or the other and save money
skunk2 stage 1 cams go well with alot of set ups but remember if you go bigger cams you will need ramhorn/top mount manifold and a decent turbo
if i were you id save up your money, sell your "bolt ons" and just turbo it, skip 13's and go right to 12's
choose one way or the other and save money
skunk2 stage 1 cams go well with alot of set ups but remember if you go bigger cams you will need ramhorn/top mount manifold and a decent turbo
if i were you id save up your money, sell your "bolt ons" and just turbo it, skip 13's and go right to 12's
ok, maybe your not quite seeing it the way that i am, or maybe we have two different perceptions on this, but like i originally stated, i want to boost.. but i don't wanna boost a stock setup and only get 13's out of it... i want to have all the bolt-ons, etc that one might have even in a turbo setup.. and see how fast my car will go with just those bolt-ons before i boost, that way i have a good comparison of what kind of gains i made with the turbo, all my bolt-ons i have now will be used in the turbo setup, except the header of course, i'm not building a NA car, just trying to see if i can make it go 13's before the turbo comes along.. i'm not wasting money by purchasing all these NA parts like you may think.. but my question was about a cam, not how to build a car.. the question was what cam can i go with that will benefit in a turbo setup, but also make power in a NA setup until i'm ready to turbo, that way i do cams once, and thats it (saving money). I do not know the nature of a turbo specific cam, if even a "boost" cam can make more power than the factory gsr cam, even without the boost it was designed for, then thats what i need, if not then i need an alternative to a "boost" cam that i can still use in a "boosted" setup in the future.
Trending Topics
see thats the kind of answer i was looking for, i hear great things about the CTR intake cam, and i hear to use the ITR exhaust cam or my stock gsr cam, and just from reading from several sources i hear that stock type r cams are great for boosting, but if this was so why would so many manufacturers make "boost" cams, so i was posting on this board to see whats actually working for you guys, etc etc.
Just go with some CTR/ITR cams or maybe some stage 1 skunk2's.
Dont expect to go 13's though. I did it in my teg with a simple gsr setup with some big cams. The problem is buying a header and some other parts that are not needed when going turbo. If you only bought parts that would compliment the car with a turbo then I could understand, but I dont think you will run a 13 with stock compression, mild cams and stock header. Just slowly buy all the turbo parts you want, and forget running 13's. Go straight to 12's like said above.
Dont expect to go 13's though. I did it in my teg with a simple gsr setup with some big cams. The problem is buying a header and some other parts that are not needed when going turbo. If you only bought parts that would compliment the car with a turbo then I could understand, but I dont think you will run a 13 with stock compression, mild cams and stock header. Just slowly buy all the turbo parts you want, and forget running 13's. Go straight to 12's like said above.
Last edited by SilverEk3dr; Mar 19, 2009 at 01:40 PM.
so what size exhaust are you using, are you using stock header, stock intake etc, what turbo manifold will you be going with, what turbo will you be going with, and how much power do you want turbo and N/a
type r cams are great cams for a simple turbo setup, but wont help you much in your quest for 13's as much as a set of skunk 2 stage 2 cams would (but those probably wouldnt work well with most turbo setups) see what i mean....
type r cams are great cams for a simple turbo setup, but wont help you much in your quest for 13's as much as a set of skunk 2 stage 2 cams would (but those probably wouldnt work well with most turbo setups) see what i mean....
There was a thread not to long ago where the compared ctr cams v.s sk2 pro1 for boost and pro1s made more power all over! im running a full internal n.a gsr motor with sk2 pro1 cams and soon i will ad a jrsc running 6psi boost and retune with same cams!
big cams need a big turbo and long tube turbo headers to work to their potential, or else vtec will be at like 8000 rpm
not sure how they would work on jrsc as thats a completely different animal
not sure how they would work on jrsc as thats a completely different animal
well i just didn't feel like making a 50 part list of all whats on my car, but i have dc ceramic 4-1 header, hi flow cat, apexi ws exhuast 2.25 i.d., ebay air intake, skunk 2 pro series IM, clutchmasters stage 3, fidanza 7.5 lb flywheel, CTR transmission with Ls final drive, all polyurethane bushings and mounts, hi flow fuel filter, apexi vafc, thats some basics for you if that helps, i mean its running 14.5's now, its a jdm b18c in a 95 gsr, all internals are stock, i don't see why i can't run a 13 something if i doing headwork, throttle body, underdrive pulleys, traction bars, ditch that vafc and have it tuned with something professional, just forget i said anything about boosting right now, i shouldn't have even said anything because now its gotten drawn way off from my original question, which was about cams. but i think i now have the answer i want which is knowing that you can use regular cams like skunk2 tuner series stage 1's, or CTR's or something and they will work good for boost later on down the road, so problem solved!
ok cool, so i know the CTR intake cam is supposed to be more aggressive than the ITR intake came, but i heard both exhaust cams was about the same right?
To the OP - you really should just skip the NA step; its a waste of money and time. But if you have to do it that way, use something like ITR/CTR cams or just slightly bigger.
Best of luck with your project.
well i mean its already a NA setup, i have been slowly working on it for a few years, little piece here and there, and the parts i want to add will benefit in the boosted setup as well, tuning, tb, headwork, traction bars, pulleys-(maybe, heard they didn't really help with boost setups). I just want to do these things first to it before i boost, just curiosity to see if i can get a 13 on motor with these things, then i will happily drop a turbo setup in. Thanks though for you guys help, i just mainly was worried with choosing a cam that would not benefit me when i boost it. I have read about some back pressure issues with cams, etc, and just wanted you guys opinions on a good/great cam, that will work for NA as well was medium size turbo setup t3/t4 - though thats probably what you guys call a small turbo, ha.
yea i wonder if there is a difference in the p72 springs and retainers and the Civic type R ones.. if there is no difference that would be NICE
ah yea i forgot about that... 9000 redline does sound pretty.. but i might just stick with my stock 8200. Do built heads work well with stock bottom ends? can the stock bottom end handle that high rpm?
well i'm already running mid 14's, i don't have to run a 13 flat, would be nice, but a 13.anything will do. so with stock internals, IM, intake, full exhaust, vafc, and a lot of weight reductions (i.e, flywheel, wheels, interior,a/c, etc ect) i'm running mid 14s now, so with a good tune, traction bars, TB, under drive pulleys, Cams & rest of valve train, i believe i can pull a 13.99, even if just that..
If your car has started with a D15, would you have gone with all the chassis parts BEFORE going to a b-series? This is why I always prioritize parts like this: turbo kit, built bottom end, built top end, then extra crap.
I know I'm sounding bold, but let him build it twice, try and sell or give away the unnecessary parts and learn the hard way. The extra money he'll spend will help the economy all the better
Last edited by TheShodan; Mar 21, 2009 at 08:54 AM.
my advice to you is go with the OEM cam of choice, ITR, CTR, etc... then build on the car in traction or just throw on some drag slicks. you will be really close to your goals at this point. then leave it alone. read up as much info as you can digest on TURBO's and what to do? and what not to do? then build it from there. otherwise your going to kick yourself and your bank accounts going to hate you down the road. cus you pretty much will have to give away any parts you cant use on the turbo setup, headers, intake, injectors, tune, pulleys, etc... the tune would be a waste if your going to turbo it because you cant use it and they arent cheap these days.
thing is that even if you get these awesome turbo cams, they aren't going to give you the same result with NA. I deally, to get the most out of a cam your overlap, lift, duration, etc. will be different between NA and boost.
Since you are spending money, don't you want to have a set of cams that won't have you KNOWING that you could have done better? Yeah... R's will do well on both NA and boost, but....
Since you are spending money, don't you want to have a set of cams that won't have you KNOWING that you could have done better? Yeah... R's will do well on both NA and boost, but....







