Occasionally I get asked about my rather pimpy kill switch setup. So I finally got moving and threw together a web page with pictures. Hope it helps *somebody*...

http://www.nogumracing.com/karl/integra/killswitch.html

That is all.

 

Although legal, some of the downsides might be:

1. Driver cannot turn it off, seated and buckled in car.

2. If it happens to be off, driver cannot turn it on, seated and buckled in car.

Please do not ask how I know this.

3. If hood is mangled, cable might bind.

4. Corner workers do not have mindset to look for a cable pull as a kill switch.

5. Pull is on passenger side. Worker will ALWAYS come to driver side first to check with driver.

Grumpy

( Given the chance, I could comment on the downside of drinking water in the desert.)

 

was thinking the same exact things. nice execution tho.

 

I'm going to laugh my *** off if Brinson or Giles pulls that cable as they dive under you

Warren

 

But, do they need too?

Nice write up Karl

 

if i ever get by yack i'm gonna pull on his kill switch at the front of his kaa!!

 

I mounted my killswitch where the passenger side airbag was located. It keeps the switch dry, in reach of the driver, and protected in a roll over. Not as trick as the cable pull, but simple!

 

Dumb question: does severing the + connection on the battery kill a running motor? Or does the alternator still keep things running?

 

alternator keeps things running. thats why you gotta cut ignition or alternator along with battery.

 

Only when they lap me and need me out of their way.

I actually had *no* input on the implementation of the switch - like that web page says, I basically handed the shop a switch, a car, and a check. It doesn't look like it would be too difficult to attach another cable to the switch so I could have a pull on the driver's side as well.

 

Cutting ignition keeps some circuits live (for a tad bit longer) - like the fuel pump. I prefer to cut the alternator for that reason (kills it all at once, regardless of how much the engine spins). Not a huge deal though.

 

to be honest, me too and i cut my alternator as well, but i believe i got into an elevated conflict of opinion here with someone about properly cutting the ignition is better, so ill just leave it at that.

in case you were wondering.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=190663


[Modified by Tyson, 11:02 AM 8/13/2002]

 

yeah i was just gonna ask... what are the honda-challenge rules for a kill swtich? what has to be killed?

 

Oh, thanks. I didn't see... Karl's kill switch probably has the alternator line going through it too... I thought it was just the battery.

 

Heh if your motor "diesels" nothing's gonna stop that i guess.
(I'm pretty sure I've seen even fuel injected cars dieseling after the ignition is cut off)

 

SCCA requires that the alternator be cut as well as ignition. To do this properly make sure you get a switch with an alternator kill built into it. It will have more connection and will cost a bit more. This will prevent you from damaging the alternator.

 

The absolute proper switch for a car with an alternator is a six pole switch. The two big poles cut the Pos battery, two little onse cut the alternator, and the last set are used with the supplied resistor to be switched into the alternaotr circuit to prevent the diodes from blowing.

The absolute proper place to place the kill switch according to SDCCA is outside the car in front of the driver's A pillar.

I put mine inside the car on the rollcage by the driver A pillar. Reachable for driver and for corner people through the open window.

Grumpy

 

contrary to what i posted in the previous thread, i do have to advocate the use of the resistor as my alternator crapped out on my earlier this season when the voltage regulator got fried which caused my battery to boil and spray acid over my engine bay corroding everything it touched. cant say for sure it was the lack of a resistor on the switch since i do remember having to charge my battery as well with a old crappy quick battery charger before it crapped out, so it could have been either or that it was a crappy alternator to begin with and i've been overrevving the engine too much. i havent placed the resistor on my switch yet, but i dont plan on testing it much anymore now that im thru tech and know it does its job.


[Modified by Tyson, 12:17 PM 8/13/2002]

 

From an SCCA cornerworker:

We DON'T always come to the driver side of the car. If it means putting ourselves in danger or our back to traffic we will come to the side that is safest FOR US. You have a nice 6pt cage and safety gear... we have white cotton and our reflexes. Unless I have backup I won't put my back to traffic.

We look for the shut off sticker and I think we could figure out the pull cable. If you put a "PULL for OFF" sticker on/near the loop it would be even easier.

From a driver:

It is much better if you can reach it from your seat. Sometimes the workers take a while to get to you. They(/we) may have to cross a hot track or you have stopped a good distance from us and we have to bring our fire bottle. If you can shut it off yourself you could save a lot of time and damage. Being able to turn the car back ON is obviously a nice idea also.

 

Excellent I can down install THE ULTIMATE KILL SWITCH.

 

where i installed my switch. easily accessible from outside when the windows is down, and net is clear of this area.

 

an easy alternative (or addition) would be to tap the fuel pump power line that is in the steering column, and run it to an in car switch that is driver accesable.
just in case

thats what i did for parking in public places, i have a hidden kill switch so nobody can gank my car

 

alternative for what? this isnt about theft deterrence.

 

no ****
im saying for one that is accessable by the driver in case of some freak accident.

 

Ahh yes but it was Krause and England so I'm sure it was a big check. Well worth it in my opinon, they do great work. Thanks for letting us copy there work.