with the head and cams torque down, my piston is +2cc with gsr head sk2-pro1 cams and I rotated the crank 360 deg. Would that bent my valves?

 

some of them, yes.

 

What block do you have, and what pistons? Are the pistons poking out of the block? If the piston flats are out of the block, due to decking or taller pistons, then I'd also be worried about piston to head clearance since it's a GSR head. V2P contact will also be a concern if the block was decked and the head was milled alot. You should clay the motor to determine how much you can adjust your cam gears as well.

 

gsr sleeved, 85 wiseco piston +2cc dome, same as pr3 piston, none mill valve clearing already adjusted prior to rotation. With the flat piston on my turbo motor I have no problem still make 350hp wheel after.

 

If u rotate the crank by hand and it spins without stopping(piston hitting valve) U r good. Just dont start the motor until u rotate the crank at least 3-5 times. Ive never bent a valve by doing it this way and my head is milled .040 with stage 2 cams and oversized valves

 

What about when VTEC engages and all your tests of spinning the motor by hand are useless?

 

So how did it work out when you used Pro cams with the larger primarys?

 

So u r saying that when vtec hits your timing is goin to change enough to smack a valve? I personally havent used pro 1 cams. I have used sk2 stage 2 cams and now haver crower 402's and I have never ran into a problem with bending valves. I would like to know why it would hit a valve with those cams. Sorry for any misinformation I may have led to.

 

got to lock the rockers up to use the vtec lobe then check your clearances. thats the clearance u should be worried about.

 

I am guessing he did this with no timing belt. That will bend some valves. Or he did it not knowing where the cams were, that will bend some valves. I think it's NO 1.

 

How is this done? How do you lock the rockers and test for clearance? I've never heard of this, very interested.

 

air or bebe behind rocker pin.
excellent write up here - https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-v2v-p2v-1891614/

 

To the Op maybe just let someone who nows what they doing touch your motor!

 

Yes I rotate the crank without belt and the cams is on too.
I removed spark plug did not have a hard time rotating.
I am not sure I bent any valve. But when I try to rotate the cam
I have a hard time so I never rotate cam, I loosing the cam cap
and rotate to do the timing.

 

Are those the cam caps that go to that head? I tried cam caps from a different head and had the same issue. U may need the caps line honed. Also of course the crank is gonna stop u from rotating if the cam that u said wouldnt move has the valve stuck out there

 

ALL caps are from that head except for 1 on the distributor and that the intake cam that I was trying to rotate too. I might need line hone.

If I take off the intake manifold, the header and all cams and add water in
the intake side and exhuast sides and watch if there any water on the piston thru the spark plug hole. Would that help?

 

Do both the cams not rotate at all? Perhaps the springs are too stiff and you are a weakling.

Put the timing belt on, set the timing belt, then do a leak down test.

DO NOT POUR WATER INTO YOUR INTAKE PORTS!!! Do you know what hydrolock is?

 

+1 DO NOT POUR WATER IN YOUR HEAD FOR ANY REASON AT ALL!!!! Make sure u loosten all your valve adjustment screws then see if both cams spin freely. If they dont then more than likely you r gonna have to have the caps Line Honed. The cam thats hard to spin is that the 1 with the different cam cap? Also make sure all of your cam caps are pointing to the timing belt side

 

If I rotate the cams without the belt, would that bent the valve?
with the belt on I rotated the crank like a normal engine with 3/8 rachit
I might spend money to buy leak down tester like ruffrhyder sujusted.

 

If u put your belt on correctly with the crank at tdc and the cams lined up then no your not gonna bend a valve by turning the motor by hand. Now if your rotating the motor by hand and it for some reason it stops rotating, stop cause u may b hitting a valve. Reline everything back up and try again. If u havent lined timing up before I suggest u let someone who has before help u out. Bending valves can b easy if u dont know what u r doing

 

You really should not be offering advice to anyone; you do not have a basic understanding of how a VTEC Honda engine operates.


When the motor is on the low cam, the valves open x amount for x degrees of crankshaft rotation. When VTEC 'hits', the valves open x amount + y (the additional lift of the VTEC lobe) and stay open for x degrees of crankshaft rotation + y (the additional duration of the VTEC lobe). Your piston to valve clearances may be ok at x lift and x duration on the small cam, but the valves may hit the pistons or each other at (x+y) lift and (x+y) duration on the larger VTEC cam lobes. Rotating the engine by hand without locking the rocker arms in VTEC is useless for determining valve-to-valve or valve-to-piston clearances.

 

^^^like I said above sorry for the misinformation as stated above. I appreciate the way u just stated on how to check for clearences when in vtec. Im here to learn myself. I just havent ran into problems with cams I have ran before. How do u lock the rocker arms in vtec so if in the future I run a larger cam that needs to have the clearances checked that way?

 

u read the dang link i posted! the explanations on that link are as good as it gets.

 

^^^^^^sorry never even seen u posted that link thanx

 

Thanks for all the help. I will do a leak down test this weekend.