Have 3,000$ to spend on fixing my engine...
99' Gsr engine, turbo. Before it broke down ran for 2+ years...
After close to 2 years of my car not running i finally have the $ to fix it.
Im not sure which route to take and i need some advice. what would you do?
no matter which option my gsr head will be fix.. and used for any option.
1) buy a b20 block (stock). car will be N/A not turbo. buy headers and intake. Upgrade my suspension with the money left over, and fix little things here and there.
2) sleeve gsr block (due to crack sleeve) buy forged pist&rods, fix or replace crank, and all the necessary misc. extras that come with that. keep the car turbo'd.
3) buy a gsr or b20 block already sleeved, with forged parts, and polished crank, etc. keep the car turbo'd
what would be the best route overall? - cheaper, safer, performance, etc.
After close to 2 years of my car not running i finally have the $ to fix it.
Im not sure which route to take and i need some advice. what would you do?
no matter which option my gsr head will be fix.. and used for any option.
1) buy a b20 block (stock). car will be N/A not turbo. buy headers and intake. Upgrade my suspension with the money left over, and fix little things here and there.
2) sleeve gsr block (due to crack sleeve) buy forged pist&rods, fix or replace crank, and all the necessary misc. extras that come with that. keep the car turbo'd.
3) buy a gsr or b20 block already sleeved, with forged parts, and polished crank, etc. keep the car turbo'd
what would be the best route overall? - cheaper, safer, performance, etc.
safer, cheaper, you could go a piston/rod combo on a gsr block with low boost but im not sure how much performance you still want, if a lot then i choose option 3, reliabilty option 1. your call man
well thats the prob! if i keep my gsr block i need to get it sleeved due to a small crack on one of my cylinders...
im wondering what kind of numbers would i expect from...
-B20
-gsr head
-maybe some semi-aggressive cams
-440cc inj.
-255 fuel pump
-full 3'' exhaust
-i/h/e.........?????????
im wondering what kind of numbers would i expect from...
-B20
-gsr head
-maybe some semi-aggressive cams
-440cc inj.
-255 fuel pump
-full 3'' exhaust
-i/h/e.........?????????
it depends on who's doing the work. i would be more inclined to boost a JDM GSR than spend a bunch on a sleeved block unless you have the money to do it all right. also, the dart block is only a few hundred more than a properly done sleeved block and it's better. i just finished reading a ton of stuff about endyn after a built motor i had failed. found multiple places i went wrong. how the line hone was done, piston to wall, cam timing. if i ever do a built motor again it will be from endyn. they really have honda down. if you have 3k spend $1600 on a JDM GSR and get a great tune. you should still have money left for suspension and maybe tires.
you are talking about a cr-vtec right? if thats the case i would not do that unless YOU are good with automechanics. it all depends on what your looking for, but if my motor blows im just going to replace it with the same one and slap the turbo kit back on, i love boost i would not go back to n/a but thats me.
or you could just turn your car to a ls, do a couple n/a mods and have a very nice reliable car
or you could just turn your car to a ls, do a couple n/a mods and have a very nice reliable car
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it depends on who's doing the work. i would be more inclined to boost a JDM GSR than spend a bunch on a sleeved block unless you have the money to do it all right. also, the dart block is only a few hundred more than a properly done sleeved block and it's better. i just finished reading a ton of stuff about endyn after a built motor i had failed. found multiple places i went wrong. how the line hone was done, piston to wall, cam timing. if i ever do a built motor again it will be from endyn. they really have honda down. if you have 3k spend $1600 on a JDM GSR and get a great tune. you should still have money left for suspension and maybe tires.
if my block needs sleeving. i think i should prob. buy another gsr block and just hone that and buy a set of pist&rods, studs, etc. maybe spend 1000-1200 on that. fix my head for approx. $250, and maybe need to replace my crank, if not necessary then just polish.
i will prob. look for a set of pistons that can be used for boost or n/a. would like to be in the 350-400hp range. nothing to crazy.
what do ya think?
what studs are more important to replace? main or head...
i will prob. look for a set of pistons that can be used for boost or n/a. would like to be in the 350-400hp range. nothing to crazy.
what do ya think?
what studs are more important to replace? main or head...
yeah, 350hp on a n/a gsr i think your crazy, your going to have to boost it. how bout this take off all your turbo parts, buy a new gsr motor, with the head and everything. remove your busted motor, swap in new gsr longblock, reinstall the turbo parts. get the thing tuned right and your done probably for less than 3000, then sell your old motor to someone who wants to rebuild.
what happened to the old motor anyway, damadged bearings or ringland failure or what?
what happened to the old motor anyway, damadged bearings or ringland failure or what?
yeah, 350hp on a n/a gsr i think your crazy, your going to have to boost it. how bout this take off all your turbo parts, buy a new gsr motor, with the head and everything. remove your busted motor, swap in new gsr longblock, reinstall the turbo parts. get the thing tuned right and your done probably for less than 3000, then sell your old motor to someone who wants to rebuild.
what happened to the old motor anyway, damadged bearings or ringland failure or what?
what happened to the old motor anyway, damadged bearings or ringland failure or what?
spun bearing! i still have the complete engine. ohh and i meant 350-400hp on boost not n/a. im just thinking of pistons that can be used either way, so if later on i decide to take off turbo i can still use same block.
i would go with 2 if i had that kinda money..but damn i hate hearing this same question. its up to your choice and what kind of power your looking for.
You can't polish a turd, the block is toast man.
Get yourself a Dart block - unless you're installing the parts yourself, in which case obviously just buy a stock one & build it yourself.
You don't need a B20 block because you're going to have to bore & sleeve yours anyway, so just get new pistons & rings to match the larger displacement.
If done right (and smart) this should keep you under your budget.
Get yourself a Dart block - unless you're installing the parts yourself, in which case obviously just buy a stock one & build it yourself.
You don't need a B20 block because you're going to have to bore & sleeve yours anyway, so just get new pistons & rings to match the larger displacement.
If done right (and smart) this should keep you under your budget.
basically, i mean either boost a stock JDM GSR or buy a dart block and build it right. for 350hp i'd just boost another stocker and do the tune right. you can spend 5k pretty fast doing a built combo. that's 3 JDM GSR engines.
yeah thats what i was saying, just buy another gsr longblock, the other one will sell easy to someone looking to build a motor. keep it stock dont waste money building it, it will end up costing you more than you think and also take way longer than you think im sure. have the stock gsr block tuned right for 300hp providing your turbo can produce those kind of numbers and be done with it. 300hp is a nice moving street car man
it would be cheaper for him to get a jdm longblock, keep it stock internally and just boost it on STOCK internals. you will still have enough left over for a good tune. was your car tuned before and what turbo parts are you planning on running...
sleeve it, build it and tune it. keep the turbo and shoot for 400-500 hp. if youre going with a reliable build that will last then go with the gsr longblock and boost 10psi like whats been said above. should last a long *** time. ive ran my d16 on 8psi for a couple years and then recently bumped it to 20psi and im just waiting for it to blow
just keep in mind that performance engines arent perfect and no matter what you do there will always be an aspect you'll miss and that will be the ending factor. the fun is in the build.
just keep in mind that performance engines arent perfect and no matter what you do there will always be an aspect you'll miss and that will be the ending factor. the fun is in the build.
turbo parts what i have now.
440cc inj.
stage 4 competition clutch
3'' full cat back
255 fuel pump
(running 323hp/235tq) on 8psi.
I am running a t4 turbo setup with intercooler. i bought it on ebay. i guess is one of those things were some are lucky and some are not. i guess i've been one of the lucky 1's. So i ranned this turbo for over 2 years with no problems. Only issue was the oil line, but replaced it with a better one and never had problems. I also got the manifold re-welded and re-enforced on some places for extra protection. I guess my engine also last long due to a big turbo so spooling wouldn't start until approx. 4500rpm's. It had a huge lag but once it spooled it kicked ***. You know those gsr's have good top end, and my ecu was made to kick in the vtec @ 5200rpm's i believe so top end the car hauled ***. normal driving you wouldn't even feel like it had turbo. So i really like my setup and hopefully it will continue problem free for quite some time.
but i am really leaning over with the hmotors $1700 94-97 gsr engine. i really just dont have the time or patience anymore to build an engine the proper way or even the funds. so i think my best bet would be the complete swap. easy in and easy out.
get that retuned and maybe just lower boost pressure to about 4psi. having the engine running about 250ish to avoid future breakdowns.
tnx for all the responses.
Last edited by jorge59la; Mar 20, 2009 at 08:35 PM.
323whp on 8psi is money.
Torque sucks... but that's probably because you're dragging single-digits targets on a full T4 from 1.8L displacement. Downsize. Especially if you're going to lower the boost. And modding internals for 4psi is total overkill.
Good luck on the rebuild amigo.
Torque sucks... but that's probably because you're dragging single-digits targets on a full T4 from 1.8L displacement. Downsize. Especially if you're going to lower the boost. And modding internals for 4psi is total overkill.
Good luck on the rebuild amigo.
dude if you still have the ecu its still tuned, just keep everything the same, spend the 1700 and bank the rest. then just dont hammer the **** out of it all the time
If you decide to go b20vtec...http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2517573
personally i would sleeve the gsr because after that long running boost i would NOT be happy with a N/A car. My friend sold his turbo car and now he wants another because he misses the boosted car pull. but thats my .02


