so i just picked up a b16a2 short block for pretty cheap. $100.
the seller said it has a spun rod bearing. i still havent taken it apart to rebuild it since i want to get EVERYTHING before i rebuild it. head gaskets, head, alternator, pulleys, etc.
well my question is this, what is a spun rod bearing and how do i know which rod is the bad rod?(already answered by 24ten) either way i plan on getting eagle rods so it doesnt really matter. i just want to know for informative purposes. I was also wondering what parts will i need since it did not come with sensors. i will post pics of the block tomorrow as soon as i clean her up.
PICS ARE UP!







left to right: cylinder 4 & 3

and cylinder 2&1




THANKS in advance!

 

?

 

do a reliable build

go with arp rod bolts,head studs,new headgasket,acl bearing kit(get the whole kit)and new water pump oil pump and what ever the rest you would like to do also get the crank checked out and balanced

 

I'd buy it for the head, then get a B20 short block or something. I wouldn't waste your time with a scratched up crank, possibly the inside of the rod that spun the bearing, plus needing new bearings, seals, rings, labour, ect

It's cheap to just find another short block. They are all over the place

 

check the head for damage it may not look like it if u look at it but take it to a shop to check if its flush

 

i was thinking of that. but it will take some time for me to get all these stuff. but first i need to get an engine stand.
i was thinking of making a thread here so i can get from all the honda-tech wiseman

in case you do not know, a short block(as mentioned) is ONLY the lower part of an engine. it does NOT have a head

 

he doesnt have a head.. just block.


from what i have been told you wont really know how bad intell you get in the motor.
but my bet is your going to have to send the crank out to a shop.

 

Since no one explained it thoroughly, I'll give it a shot. When you take it apart, pay attention to the journals on the crank where the rods connect. One of them will be messed up. I wouldn't expect them to be a perfect mirror finish, but you'll be able to tell what's not normal wear and tear (think of a good brake rotor vs a worn one). Also, the corresponding bearing will have similar wear/grooves and/or physical damage. The way to correct this is to have the journals milled if needed then polished. The downside is if it exceeds a certain minimal thickness you might need to have the crank treated for extra strength. At that point, it may not be worth going forward with that crank. Might actually be better if you can find a used crank that's not damaged.

I went through this particular dilemma with my first build. 171,XXX miles on my motor and the groove in the bearings left a raised hump in the middle of each journal. The difference in thickness was enough to exceed the minimal thickness to where they recommended doing the treatment process which was an additional $250 on top of the $60 to have the journals polished. This is what it looked like:



The stripe in the middle is the original thickness of the journal while the sides are where the bearing makes contact with the journal, wearing it down over time. Now if it had a spun bearing, you'd see grooves/scratches in the journal itself and the matching bearing(s). I opted to go get another crank from the junkyard which cost me $40 and it was within tolerance standards. It had the same stripe in the middle of the journal but it was very slight, couldn't barely feel it if you ran your fingernail over it. With my original one, you can feel it with just your fingertip pressed on it. This is what it looked like after polishing:



Notice they even gave the oil hole a little chamfer to the edge? Anyways, hope this short lesson helps out with your project. Good luck!

 

Here, found a pic of my GSR head with damage to the cam seats. The damage on a spun bearing/journal would look similar to this:



So yeah, when you take your motor apart, it should be obvious which one is damaged.

 

^^^^^^^^GOD DAMN!!!!
PERFECT!!!!!! just what i was hoping to hear and what i was hoping to see!!!!
YOU ROCK!!!!

well yea. i will post pics of the motor (still intact and slightly cleaned) in about 5 minutes

 

No problem. If anything, any damage should be isolated to the bearing and the matching journal but you should inspect anything and everything. A little piece of metal debris can get circulated and damage just about everything internally. Mainly, you just want to make sure there's no damage to any of the journals (both main and rod journals), and the cylinder walls. If anything else, while you're tearing it down think of places that move and have friction. These are places you really want to ensure are in good shape.

 

^^^^^^for sure! thanks man! you are being SUCH a HUGE help.
i will start tearing it apart as soon an i get a engine stand.
i added you to my friends list so incase i need anymore help, you are just one click away.

can you tell me what i am missing on the block? since i know im missing sensors.

 

No problem, it looks like you have the knock sensor in place but it looks like the actual connector is gone. Am I seeing that correctly? The oil pressure switch looks ok but even that looks like the connector is rather small (it's hard to see because the pics aren't too big). I could be wrong about the connection part. Can you snap close ups of those sensors? As far as missing sensors go, I believe those are the only two sensors on the block. It looks like you have the oil jet in place, PVC (black box on the back) in place, only thing that I can tell is missing is the alternator brackets and obviously the alternator, timing belt tensioner, timing cover, and left mount bracket.

EDIT: Also missing the thermostat cover which should also have a sensor that goes to it.

 

yea im not really sure where those sensors are located.
tomorrow i will post close up pics. can you just save the pics, edit them with circles, squares, arrows which ever you prefer and post them up so i can get that specific area.

 

I might have the two sensors mixed up/reversed but yeah, snap a pic of those two and I'm curious about the hole in between them. Is it a blank hole? Does it go through to the internals of the block? Is it threaded?

 

the whole between both sensors is just a blank hole. no threads and it does not go through the block as you can see in the pics

 

B16A2's are delicious.

 

oh yes. and this one will be built for turbo!

 

ok so i should have an engine stand tomorrow and when i get it, i will start a build thread. so i can get opinions from every one as well as help.

 

so i just started taking it apart.
i am missing quite a few oil pan screws.
i tried removing the screws to lift up the pistons and crankshaft but DAMN!!!
they are on there TIGHT! so i will be needing air tools. i will try again when i mount it
on the engine stand that i bought today

 

Why would you need air tools? Air tools won't help. Just get the biggest breaker bar you got and see if you can put a hollow bar around the breaker bar to get more leverage.

 

because air tools are more efficient and make the job ALOT easier as well as faster.

 

so i just finished removing everything.
crankshaft, pistons, rods, EVERYTHING so its just the bare block.
the journals where the rods are on are fine. but where the crankshaft lies, there is "raised bumps" on the crank. i will post pics tomorrow

 

24Ten, how much does it cost to have the crank milled? since the journals where the rods are, are in PERFECT condition! mirror finish!!! but the journals where the crank lies on the block has groves. all 5 of them!

 

It cost me $60 for the crank journals to be milled (as necessary) and polished.