okay heres the build:
head b16a stock
injectors 310
ecu chipped p28
block gsr(totally gone threw with ctr pistons(totally gone threw, and put together at mechine shop)
10lbs flywheel
car 1991 da integra

car was idling terribly low, and hunting 300-500. drove it home from friends house where we put it together about an hour away. started messing with it the next day, and gave it a compression test.
i was loosing compression in cylinder 2, and blowing white smoke.
pulled the head, had it milled, front left dowl pin bent head gasket a lil bit other than that head gasket was fine. replaced head gasket,
set timing with cylinder #1 at tdc. put it all back together still running funny.(but better) funny=idles around 800-950. everything seems normal except the hunting idle. but when the car gets warm(fans do not come on) idle seems to get ruffer and ruffer. give it throttle to 4k and she wants to cut off idle drops to 200-300. if i drive it (which im not) when i come off the throttle to shift car dies. its raing here now so i cant tinker with it, but im thinking ect senor, or ect sending unit, iacv,fitv. im stumped any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks dustin

 

Did you get it tuned?

 

You could have a bad IACV or they did not give it enough of a duty cycle on your chip. Does it leak or have any other mechanical issues? if not then take it and get it tuned.

 

i am deffinitely getting it tuned i just dont want to bring a limping motor to the guy. would the iacv make it cut out? and it feels like it has no power. i havent pushed it hard (nothing past 7k) and that was only once! and could tuning it really fix this?

 

Have you "burped" the cooling system since you refilled?

I had an old SOHC VTEC motor that was using coolant. When it would get low, the idle would hunt on cold starts. Fill, bleed, problem solved every time.

 

i have bled the system, and changed the thermostat. not sure if my thermo is opening. coar get to normal operating temp (lil under half) but my fan doesn't come on at all(will be checking fan relay and ect sensor when its not raining). i put my hand on return radiator hose and its still cold. so if the system isn't flowing how do you get the air out?

 

another thing my injectors are dsm 315's ecu is set for 310's. plus i have a stock fuel pump 91 da. could this be why when i give gas, and let off it wants to die?

 

Did the head gasket fix the white smoke? White smoke is coolant in the combustion chamber. Did you have the head checked for cracks? Check you spark plugs and make sure they are not fouled and look normal.
It takes a while for the thermostat to open. You also need to run it with the cap off the radiator to burp it. Squeeze the top radiator hose to "burp" out some more air.
Take off IACV and clean with carb cleaner and check screen. Does a B16 TB have a FITV? (I have GSR)
Put it all back together and start it with out the intake arm off. (bare TB) there are holes before the throttle plate. Feel for air going into holes when car is cold (first startup) plug the hole and what happens?
You timed the block and head correctly right? You checked time with a timing light right?

The dizzy is a new dizzy? Or old used dizzy?

BTW what was you compression readings?

 

head gasket change did fix the white smoke. i also had the head checked at machine shop for cracks bent valves, and had it milled a tiny bit. before i put the motor together i cleaned tb/iacv/ficv changed intake mani gasket, but used the old tb gasket. burped it with cap off, heat on high and circulate. timing was set using #1 tdc, and im ''pretty sure'' i have it dead on. my crank pulley is off of a 91 ls integra. compression was 255.250.225.245 but when i did comp test i didn't cut fuel to injectors. im pretty sure my comp should be around 260 across the board.? i will be doing another check soon. i haven't becuase the white smoke is gone.

 

I'd say this is the heart of your problem. There's gotta be air in there, or some kind of blockage inside the water jackets.

Like Nick asked, does this motor have an FITV?

How did you bleed? Does this head have the bleed nipple at the base of the upper rad hose? If so, I used to use some clear tubing over the nipple, stuck the other end in the reservoir, then I could see if it was pushing air out (bubbles) or drawing coolant back in from the reservoir. Rev the motor to ensure it's doing something.

After the car's been up to temp, is it pulling coolant in from the reservoir as it cools?

 

Hmm. First off I checked your comp ratio. If you got a LS crank GSR block and B16 head, 13/1 wit LS rods and 15/1 on GSR rods. Thats alot of compression for a street car. What octane fuel you got there?
Also you should only have a 5 lb difference in pressures on a new motor like yours. (ok maybe a little more) unless thats a typo I see 255.250.225 <--hmm 245. Not sure if that is #3 or #2 for ya but thats not good.
Remove ALL spark plugs and remove fuel pump fuse from under dash. Then do a compression test. make sure the battery is good cause a dying battery will efect comp test.
If you got 260 comp I hope you got 100 octane fuel or its a track car. otherwise you are gonna have to retard the ignition. That will just take power from the motor.

 

Put some stock 240cc and a stock ecu and see whats happens

 

first off thanks to all that have taken time to try and help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!
i have a gsr crank, and rods. as far as the compression ill check it again today after i make sure the coolant system is properly bleed. i do believe i should have better numbers (more even), because im no longer blowing any white smoke.

swapping 240's back in is deffinitely an option, but i dont have a stock ecu handy, so it's lower on the list of possible fixes.

im going out to mess with it in a min. but im thinking i may have a timing issue i.e. i give it throttle and when it falls it wants to die..

note i have a ls crank pulley, but gsr crank are the timing marks different?

 

9am start car 40 degrees outside, rpm 1200 almost instantly(within 30 seconds) rpm drops to 800-900 hunting. im gonna take off the fitv make sure it's adjusted properly. will post conclusion soon.

 

fitv is all good as car got warmer rpm's dropped. car warm idle hunting around 500-750. jumped ect plug condensor fan(fan on right looking at bay from front) only came on. also sprayed brake cleaner around tb, and intake no idle change at all.

 

tryed adjusting timing through turning dizzy(jumped off service connector) turned. didn't seem to help at all.

 

gonna swap ecu, and injectors to stock. AND CROSS MY FINGAZZZZ!

 

try the TPS

 

What should i try on it?

 

I have ruled injectors out!

 

Did you do any custom wiring? How is your MAP sensor hooked up? (the hose) I had similar issues to this. My TPS wires were reversed, reading WOT at idle. My MAP was on a really long hose and had a poor reading. Injector 2 was misifiring as a result. My symptoms from all this were... bad idle, running really rich, took forever to warm up, injector 2 misfiring.

 

My sympton almost to the tee!!! I even had some idetonation in cylinder 2!! What did you do?

 

No custom wiring, but my map senor is 1991 da stock and located on firewall to the right of intake mani.

 

Light at the end of the tunnel!! Tryed stock injectors with my p28 after i pulled the chip. The car ran real well, but stayed around 1200 rpms this was a cold start so, thats not a biggie, but now my oil light is coming on. It's dark and my lighting is limited, so ill mess with it tommorrow. Updates will be posted asap! I hope this helps some average joe out there lol!!

 

check to see if you have the map sensor plug and the tps sensor plugged crossed up.