Heres the deal, i have a 2000 si all stock expected for a full dc exhaust setup and an aem cai. I want to go all motor. What is the best combo for pistons, cams, springs. ect. Im a nobe here so as much help as possible would be the best. I have funds, but nothing extremely crazy. Thanks hope this is enough for you to go off of.

 

hey find a local shop and ask what they can work with, ask for recent cars and even ask to talk to those who had them installed, how do they like them, how much, any problems etc.

google. hondatech, etc look into what people are saying about diff set ups, look at NA dyno results on NA set up in the em1 and what got them up there over 300hp?

im in the working of do i want to go NA or boost....... rather be NA and keep my 30+mpg

 

thats why i want to go all motor. 30mpgs is nice

 

Meh, I get about 26 with my ls-t.

 

is there any suggestions on how to go about this?

 

i have no actual experience on this but this is gonna be my suggestion and its actually what i plan on doing for my own B16 build.

eagle rotating assembly, balanced good for at least 9,000rpms. find a CNC'd head ported and lightly polished(too much polishing is bad, check out "head porting" on wikipedia) light valves, high tension springs, light retainers to handle the high rpms. short runner, big plenum manifold. 4-2-1 (Tri-Y) header, full exhaust matched to my head flow. bored and stroked to 1.8. do a few calculations and call up comp cams so they can make me some custom cams........OR they might have a better idea. AEM stand alone. and of course theres all the little nice things like fuel rail, fuel pump, injectors, a/c & pwr steering delete. adjustable cam pulley. bigger throttle body, intake, and so on.

so thats basically it, i know theres a bunch of the little stuff in there ive left out. i say eagle rotating assembly because they have really good quality parts, BUT ive heard from quite a few ppl that their inhouse work isnt that great. so id get their forged kit, unbalanced, take it to a machine shop, have them balance it, clean the block, line hone it, bored and hone the cylinders, make sure the block is in good condition(all flat surfaces are truly flat, round things are truly round.......)

so yeah thats my plan so far. this is gonna be my track car for road courses and autoX.

OHHHHHH i almost forgot. THE most important part of the entire thing. a good dyno tune. gotta make sure everything is working like it should be.

 

the best way to make more power is to run higher RPMS.....IF you have components designed to put your power at higher rpms.

simple example. 150ft/lbs at 8000rpms makes 228hp. 150ft/lbs at 9000rpms makes 257hp.

(TQ x RPM)/5252 =HP

so a stock B16 makes 111 ft/lbs at 7000. and 160hp at 7600(110ft/lbs). so if i can build my engine to simply maintain that torque all the way to 9000. thats 190hp without increasing torque.

 

usually all motor setups have alot worse gas mileage. Because cams kill gas mileage, the more aggressive the less gas mileage you will get. Higher compression requires more fuel so having a high comp engine will also hurt gas mileage. turbo is a better way to go if you want to keep high mpg. Because you will get good mpg as long as your not boosting.

 

turbo also comes with some responsibilities that most people dont realize. driving a turbo car takes a lil more effort to maintain it properly. letting it spool down before shutting it off is crucial to making it last. making sure you ALWAYS use high quality oil and very strict oil change schedule is important too.

a built engine with a lil higher compression that itsnt yet stretched to the limits doesnt require near the effort to maintain it properly. its all about what you want and what you are willing to spend to get there.

 

yes but i was just informing the OP that you cant really have gas mileage and any kind of decent all motor setup. As increased CR = more fuel & more agressive cams = more fuel.
So gas mileage = low.

 

very interesting. just learned a lot right there lol. im not objected to boosting. i have a t3t4 turbo, piping and intercooler but i thought it was going to be less effective. hmm thanks a lot guys. is it possible to boost my stock b16a2 block without a huge amount of internal mods.

 

LOL... dont waste your time or money man. all motor FTL!

 

boosting without internal mods is fine under a few conditions.

1: you are CERTAIN that your engine is in very good condition inside, everything is sealing, no leaks, bearings arent worn...............

2: if number one is good then if you are running low boost......say 5-7psi. any more than that and you need to go ahead and do a full rebuild to verify the condidtion of the engine, cams designed for turbo. lower compression pistons, better valves............

i personally dont like the idea of slapping a turbo on an engine without quite a bit of prep and planning, some calculations, and a complete rebuild with components designed for a turbo.

 

check your compression and if its good put a turbo on it. b16's arent all that great for all motor cars.

 

ditch the NA stuff and turbo it 10psi tunned and youd be spanking v8s in a daily driver while gettin maybe 30mpgs depending on how u drive it

 

well it is my daily driver during the warm months. i was thinking 5-7pounds ish. the motor was 90k on it. i have never had any issues with the motor. the only leak ive ever had was the oil pan washer wore out. would a new radiator also be a good idea?

 

yes. you can do 7-10PSI safely on that turbo. Just get it tuned.

 

with low boost i dont see any need for a new radiator. honestly with 90k even though its a honda, i would do more than a compression test. cylinder leakage test at MINIMUM. i would also drop the pan and check the oil clearances on the main and rod bearings. if those things turned out WELL within specs then you will probably be ok.

im wondering why everyone says B16s arent very good NA?

 

they have small displacement. Unless they are a b16b which is really destroked b18 so ya.

 

small displacement doesnt mean anything. its EASIER to get power out of larger displacement, but its not impossible or even hard to get what you want out of smaller displacement.

 

thanks guys a lot of help here. im gunna run it up to local shop and get their input. i just want some more over all power

 

smaller displacement = lower all-motor power, because there is simply less motor there.

 

I believe the b16a was the first naturally aspirated engine to generate 100hp per liter, how many 15-20 y/o 5 liter v8's are producing 500hp N/A?

The b16b out puts more hp per liter then the b18c5, but then the f20c out puts more hp per liter N/A then anyother production engine, then the f22c puts out slightly less hp per liter, the c30a only produces 280 hp per 3 liters while the c32b produces 280 hp for 3.2 liters.....

I know its fully built but the JACCCS civic b16a is rated at 230 hp.

Theirs a lot more science to it then just displacement....

EDIT: I also believe honda was the first auto company to produce 1000hp per liter

 

they were the first ones to have OEM 100HP per liter. Although built High displacement engines can produce 1000HP+ N/A on 5-8 Liters. So ya, its about displacement for all motor setups. Period. You can do all this insane **** to it (up compression, stroke,bore,cams,pistons,etc) and you can make good power. But not power like V8's. Not unless you go the forced induction route. Because remember you can do all that same **** to the big block engines, but because they are larger the gains are much higher.

 

They were the first ones to have a 100hp per liter N/A engine period.