I am currently building an all motor setup and I am determined to get at least 200whp. My main question is, will CTR cams get me there or do I need to upgrade? The vehicle will be dynoed on 15in wheels with full buddy club spec 3 exhaust/testpipe. Can I make 200whp on this set-up?

Head:
GSR fully PNP with Skunk2 springs/retainers
CTR cams, Skunk2 intake Manifold, Typer throttle body, DC JDM 4-1 header
AEM fuel rail/regulator, hondata IM gasket, Injen short ram with Blox velocity stack/filter

Block:
11.3 comp. GSR with PR3 pistons. Bored .25 over
CTR crank pulley, fidanza 11lbs flywheel

ECU:
Mugen chipped P28

 

No bench racing.

 

What the hell is that suppost to mean?

 

my boy made 192whp/128tq

it was a stock gsr motor

all we did was put blox type b's with springs stock retainers

skunk 2 proseries manifold with stock tb

3" arm w/ blox v-stack + filter

and profab headers

less then 2k money spent

 

depends on the who did the headwork and how much was done. Also a Mugen p28 huh... im gonna go out on a limb here and say ebay chip? ditch that ****

 

gon use some gas but your not gonna be worried because its optimized.

 

The ECU has no governor/rev limiter. I was told it had a mugen chip but ya, who really knows. I can ensure you it is not just a e-bay knock off because I had this computer when my GSR was stock with bolt ons and I ran a 13.9 at 105mph.

 

check out the dyno thread and the 1.8L dyno thread and see what you think.

 

no rev limit ect.=ebay chip. a real chip would have some sort of limit. Alls thats doing is loading you up with fuel and removing the limiter, its not helping

 

So let me get this right.
You had your head ported. (Fully ported not so sure about that. I am not dissing you just commented on what you said. Just because you have it ported doesnt mean it is "fully" ported).

You paid for a good manifold, springs/retainers and ect.

But now you are willing/going to run your motor on a chip that only god know whats on it. Just becasue it worked on a stock motor doesnt mean it will work on your next motor.

Did you know that you can buy hondata s100 for $200? Which is a 1000000000% better than running a "mugen chip" or any chip for that matter.

No disrespect to you but What the F*** is going on around here now a days? Rant over

 

ya and than theres crome, thats free....

 

First you say "who really knows" if it is in fact an authentic mugen chip, they you go on to say "I can ensure you it's not just a ebay knock off". How can you ensure it's not an ebay chip if you can't even confirm its authenticity?
Also, 13.9 in what car?

 

It means no one can guess the amount of whp you'll make just from you listing your combination of parts. Who and how it was assembled makes a difference.

 

The 13.9 was in a gutted integra on street tires, I have slips to prove it. The head was ported/polished and assembled by DNR and once again I was told it was "fully" PNP. Sorry for the noob posts, just trying to get the right information. Thanks for all the comments good and bad. So how about the cams, can I make 200whp with CTR's and tune (hondata)?

 

Yes, it is possible with a better header more probable. Just go to a dyno and report the results.

 

Sorry, now that I re-read it that does sound a little confusing. The chip was installed by Marlyin from Motorsport dynamics in Sacramento, you probably arent familiar with his work but maybe someone on here can vouch for me. Therefore I know its not from ebay. I believe he set the chip to the mugen base map.

 

Mugen basemap for what build?
If he does such good work, why didn't he tune your car?

 

I remember motorsport. They still open?

Its not the question of the installer, its the mugen map itself.
You can expect to run way rich, no rev limit, and possibly no o2 either IIRC.
Your best bet is to get a basemap from phearable or someone else you trust
and then plan to follow up on your final tune on a dyno with ectune, crome,
hondata ect. because there will still be changes to make.

Or f-it. yeah it'l work. To the best of its potential, no.

 

I put down 208 whp on dynojet with skunk2 stage I cams, dtr header, ctr piston, little head work by me, stock valve outter spring, port flow inner, itr intake madifold and throttle body, hondata. I had it for four year 60 thousands miles without any problem before I sold it two year ago to get nsx.

 

Motorsport has since gone out of business and the reason I didnt have him tune it was because by the time I got the ECU he no longer worked there. The ECU was not built for my motor but it seemed to run great on my old set-up so I figured I could use it. What I have concluded is that I should just man up and get hondata, pay for a good tune and possibly get a better header. What about cam gears, are these nessesary for CTR cams?

 

It's all going to come down to flow and tuning..

 

To answer your orginal question, NO. Not with your current list of parts.
To make 200whp with CTR cams in 1.8L on a dynojet, costs a lot of money. Why? because only the best parts will get you to this goal.
A better header will be needed, SMSP/hytech/Bisi.
A fully tuneable ECU.
At least you have V-stack maybe a 3" CAI also.
Maybe a Bigger Throttle body.
Also maybe some more information about your head. Any flow numbers?
I know this because I have a similar goal, and with all the research I've done you will need more to get there. I have CTR cams in my 1.8 and am at 182/134, next step is a SMSP header to get me into the 190s.

 

IMO, using any of those "chips" on a motor other then a very specific or known motor for what Mugen intended it for, is like having your haircut by a blind person or a leap of faith not likely to have a favorable result.

Your motor is a rotating mass of hundreds of changing varibles which makes the airflow volume and curve moving in & out of it as complex as the fuel trim and ignition curve required to make power with it, without destroying it.

 

208 whp on s2s1 that's impressive.

 

how is this bench racing? do you even know what that means? bench racing means that you have two cars with certain mods and saying who would win.

anyways. i would upgrade to at least a stg 1 cam...skunk2 stg 1, buddy club 3+, crower, and so on. your head is fully built so you'll be able to run the ctr cams but not to the full potential of the head. also, bigger tb unless its been port match to the im then should be fine. better headers also, but i have seen them make 200+hp with the right tuning. if you're short of cash, just get better cams and get a really good tune and you mite hit the 200 mark.