Clear coating something polished?
Say for instance you wanted to polish your damper fork. Given the fact it would be very maintenance demanding, is it possible to clear them in order to preserve the appearance?
Any tricks to preserve something polished underbody?
Any tricks to preserve something polished underbody?
I have clear coated polished products before but the rule usually states that it wont last, here's why, when u polish a surface you are making it extremely smooth so there is not really any adhesiveness for the clear coat to stick to long term. but i have done it before with no problems on certain things such as wheels.
I have clear coated polished products before but the rule usually states that it wont last, here's why, when u polish a surface you are making it extremely smooth so there is not really any adhesiveness for the clear coat to stick to long term. but i have done it before with no problems on certain things such as wheels.
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I used to wonder this. I had my parts done the finish dosnt look as clean as before the clear coat but as far as lasting I haven't used my parts yet.
I polished my ASR sub brace and a pair of SRR LCA's They are directly under the car and I just wash them when I wash the car and every once in a while hit them with some mothers mag & aluminum polish on a rag. Easy to maintain, no need to clear. I spend more time cleaning my wheels than it takes to keep polished aluminum nice.
...........if you dont maintain it though, like any thing, it will go to ****
...........if you dont maintain it though, like any thing, it will go to ****
Yeah, the parts I'm thinking of doing are a bit wouldn't be a terrible pain to polish anyway. I only drive the car about 1000 miles a year...no rain, nothing but sunny days and warm temps. Just wonderin if anyone knew any easy methods.
Ahhh....zoop seal looks promising. I did read that applyin it is VERY touchy, but if you get it right it protects all polished surfaces for up to two years! I read many people on forums that coated engine parts and suspension parts and OVER two years later just use a detail spray wax to touch them up quick...still good as new though!
It's pricey though....80 bucks for the jr. kit and 100 bucks for the regular kit. Could save a ton of work though.
It's pricey though....80 bucks for the jr. kit and 100 bucks for the regular kit. Could save a ton of work though.
if you polish:
1) steel - in the future depending where the part is it will start to show some rust spots on the surface thus I would highly recommend you clear pwrcoat
2) aluminum - like on a wheel barrel/lip; you can save money here and clean everytime you wash your car. Aluminum is not as prone to rust as steel.
If the part gets hot like an header or intake manifold; regular clear coat pwrcoat will not withstand the head thus u might have to use chromelux...or another name from another manufacture that does the same job.
In anycase, clear does reduce a bit of the shine from the polish regardless of material.
Just my experience.
1) steel - in the future depending where the part is it will start to show some rust spots on the surface thus I would highly recommend you clear pwrcoat
2) aluminum - like on a wheel barrel/lip; you can save money here and clean everytime you wash your car. Aluminum is not as prone to rust as steel.
If the part gets hot like an header or intake manifold; regular clear coat pwrcoat will not withstand the head thus u might have to use chromelux...or another name from another manufacture that does the same job.
In anycase, clear does reduce a bit of the shine from the polish regardless of material.
Just my experience.
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