So after 5 months of looking for the perfect R, i just bought NHBP 01-0898, I flew to BWI Airport Maryland where the car and owner were waiting for me, counted out the new owners cash and drove it back 2700 miles to California nonstop... The caR was really strong across country and did awesome to get me back in record 'cannonball time'.

So i did an oil change with conventional 5w-30 when i got back and now the valvetrain is ticking and the rear main seal seems to leak oil. Should i do 3/4 carbon synchros at the same time, and what type of tranny fluid should i use? Is there anything else i should do while i have the tranny off?

Thanks all

 

i would use honda mtf but if u have a mechanical problem oil wont make a difference

 

Definitely use Honda MTF in the tranny.

Do you have any idea what oil was being used prior to you buying it? Conventional or synthetic? Rear main seals are a fairly common issue to ITR's.

 

Congrats on the pick up!

 

pics man

 

So why did you but it from that guy in Baltimore versus buying one in Cal? I thought there were more ITR's for sale in Cal, especially without rust...

 

Honda MTF and if its starting to grind, mix in a bit of GM Synchromesh Modified.

 

redline mtf has given me the best shifts out of what i've tried.

 

I just put in a 4.9 GearX final drive with 1-2 brass 3-5 carbon coated synchros the past weekend in my Itr. Used Royal Purple full Synthetic 5w30. Final drive whines a little bit..So far so good!!!

 

did you do the sleeves aswell, or just the synchros, im looking at the 3/4 carbon kit. how much should i expect to pay for the 3/4 synchro/sleeve install?

I have no idea what the previous owner used. The car is stored though, and i plan on rarily driving it, changing oil/filter every 2-3 months.

How much should i expect to pay for labor on the rear main seal?

Too Scared of Theft.....its sealed and stored now!

ready now.....come try and get her....hehhehe

Thanks all

 

I just replaced the stock 4.4 final drive ring gear/counter with the GearX 4.9.

I also replaced all synchros 1-2 brass/3-5 Carbon coated (mine as well since the transmissions was out.)

The total for parts ONLY ran little under $800.00 The fd itself was $495.00

Synchros they sell 1-5($275.00) OR 3-5 but I'm not sure you might want to contact Synchrotech (EXCELLENT service!!).

Labor we did ourselves. By looking at this photo i took-you can imagine how much they'll charge lol

 

sorry to hear your having troubles with the car. the motor was rebuilt by JE Import Performance in baltimore, I remember when he had it done. I beleive the syncros were also done when the motor was rebuilt.

weird that it didnt leak on the drive back but is now leaking. no issues driving home?

 

yeah the motor sounds strong,
Good times! But I love this R! Never selling!!!!

 

Sounds like a rough start - Keep your chin up & eliminate it problem by problem.

GOODLUCK with the build..or REbuild lol!

 

i have always used 5-30 mobile 1 in my jdm b16 lsd trans. it has been down a drag strip over 100 times at roughly 350 whp, and daily diven, with no problems at all..

 

Absolutely!!! it's all you can do!

So i'll just stick with OEM honda MTF. but what carbon synchros/sleeves should i buy? just 3/4 are bad. clutch/flywheel?...I would really like a 8-11lb flywheel and 6 puck sprung disc with a stock feeling pp... i've used 'action clutches'(not act) in the past with great results.

So maybe a CC stage 3 or Action 1KS clutch kit?

 

Damn. Sucks to hear about all your problems.

 

....

 

I had my car worked on at JE Import Performance in Baltimore. Worst shop experience I have ever had. He's the reason why I am the only one who works on my car.

Did you get a good deal on the car? Sounds like it has a lot of problems.

 

So i think I've decided:

Competition Clutch Stage 3 clutch kit - ($405)
8.4lb Competition Clutch steel flywheel - ($210)
Synchrotech 3rd and 4th gear hubs, sleeves and carbon synchros - ($250)
Toda dual valvesprings - ($360)
and new oem ItR retainers - ($50)

 

Before tearing into all of that.
Take your sweet little red pcv valve off and see if it functions correctly. The stock pcv system on our b-series motor suck(no pun intended). I've seen these fail and cause oil pan issues, front seals and rear seals to go bad.

Before you tear into the transmission. I'd do a transmission flush and rebleed all fluids.