Re doing my brakes
Ok, I know theres a brake section but this forumn gets so much more attention [;
Anyways, ill soon be redoing my brakes just from normal wear, but i want to have a little more stopping power. without having to buy huge rotors and fancy spoon calipers and whatnot.
would better brake fluid and tougher pads make a big difference?
Ive heard of "green stuff" that might be what there called, pads and i heard there pretty good.
ideas?
Anyways, ill soon be redoing my brakes just from normal wear, but i want to have a little more stopping power. without having to buy huge rotors and fancy spoon calipers and whatnot.
would better brake fluid and tougher pads make a big difference?
Ive heard of "green stuff" that might be what there called, pads and i heard there pretty good.
ideas?
97 dx hatchback
oem calipers
duralast pads [;
oem rotars
the guy who i bought the car from bought it wrecked at 140,xxx miles
and he pretty much tried to replace as much as he could hence the duralast pads.
EDIT: Ive noticed to with this current setup, on a nice day and dry roas, ill really get on my civic and when i brake hard the pedal feels really hard and it takes a second to slow down.
oem calipers
duralast pads [;
oem rotars
the guy who i bought the car from bought it wrecked at 140,xxx miles
and he pretty much tried to replace as much as he could hence the duralast pads.
EDIT: Ive noticed to with this current setup, on a nice day and dry roas, ill really get on my civic and when i brake hard the pedal feels really hard and it takes a second to slow down.
I would put rotors on the rear instead of drums. That would help allot i bet.
Pads IMHO are pads. I don't think they will make much difference.
If you really want stopping power you need to go with bigger rotors and cals.
Another option would to check your brake booster. Make sure it is working up to its potential. It has an effect on your stopping power.
Pads IMHO are pads. I don't think they will make much difference.
If you really want stopping power you need to go with bigger rotors and cals.
Another option would to check your brake booster. Make sure it is working up to its potential. It has an effect on your stopping power.
don't change to calipers in the back only like 25-10% of your braking comes from the rear unless you are boosted or are looking for a project it isn't really gonna be worth it for your setup. I mean don't get me wrong clearly that would give you better braking but I don't think by it is necessary for you to have that much braking power.
don't change to calipers in the back only like 25-10% of your braking comes from the rear unless you are boosted or are looking for a project it isn't really gonna be worth it for your setup. I mean don't get me wrong clearly that would give you better braking but I don't think by it is necessary for you to have that much braking power.
I agree, i just want a litle more power for DD
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Greenstuff pads are good street pads but defo top end street pads. As for the rotors, I agree with Meoshe, blanks are the way to go, all these drilled/slotted deals are silly for street autos.
Hawk brake pads and slotted rotors..also change your brake lines and brake fluid..thats what i did with my evo and it was a big dif.. Im about to do it to my civic after my b20 is installed..
[QUOTE=ecko_3420;37711265]Hawk brake pads and slotted rotors..also change your brake lines and brake fluid..thats what i did with my evo and it was a big dif.. Im about to do it to my civic after my b20 is installed..[/QUOTE
Slotted for bling-bling, blanks for reality.
Slotted for bling-bling, blanks for reality.
Ahhh well this is what you need:
99-00 Civic Si Front & Rear Brake set up (complete)
99-00 Civic Si Master Cylinder
Add a set of steel braided lines if you want and you'll be set! I did this on my 98 DX hatch and it stops on a dime now!
99-00 Civic Si Front & Rear Brake set up (complete)
99-00 Civic Si Master Cylinder
Add a set of steel braided lines if you want and you'll be set! I did this on my 98 DX hatch and it stops on a dime now!
I've had them both, and believe that the greenstuffs stop a little better, but they are noisier and dustier. When I had greenstuffs, they would squeal a bit everytime I started driving until they warmed up. The hawks I have now don't do that, but they don't stop quite as good.
I also have Brembo blanks and have found them to be comparable to OEM rotors, and cost about as much. I cannot tell any difference between them and OEM, which makes sense, since they are exactly the same size and made of the same material. If you need to replace your OEM rotors, they are good quality, and don't cost a whole lot.
If you want to spend a little more, upgrade to Civic EX rotors and calipers (not sure, but you *may* have to change the hub and knuckle as well), or integra brakes. They would give you much increased braking power over stock DX brakes. This would probably cost you about $150 on the cheap end, plus more if you have to buy new pads and rotors for them. I'm currently contemplating an integra brake swap myself.
I also have Brembo blanks and have found them to be comparable to OEM rotors, and cost about as much. I cannot tell any difference between them and OEM, which makes sense, since they are exactly the same size and made of the same material. If you need to replace your OEM rotors, they are good quality, and don't cost a whole lot.
If you want to spend a little more, upgrade to Civic EX rotors and calipers (not sure, but you *may* have to change the hub and knuckle as well), or integra brakes. They would give you much increased braking power over stock DX brakes. This would probably cost you about $150 on the cheap end, plus more if you have to buy new pads and rotors for them. I'm currently contemplating an integra brake swap myself.
what size are calipers? Wouldnt this be an expensive way to go..
Same size as 96-00 EX, and Integra. The rotors are the 10.3".
Not expensive to upgrade the fronts, you can get a complete set for about $140 and up. The rears can go for about $150 and up depending on what they have.
Not expensive to upgrade the fronts, you can get a complete set for about $140 and up. The rears can go for about $150 and up depending on what they have.
first of all... dont listen to half the people that posted. you do not need to upgrade anything on your car. if your car is stock, or more or less stock, then your factory components will serve you just fine.
brake pads are the biggest determining factor of stopping power, so get good pads. for rotors, get oem style rotors, hence 'blanks', which arent slotted or drilled. slotted and drilled is just for hard parkers if it isnt on a big brake system.
change your fluid and bleed the system when you do the brake install. stainless steel lines are definately not necessary unless you're looking to upgrade or if your stock lines are cracking.
make sure you bed in your brake pads properly. this is a very important step if you want to get the most potential out of your new pads.
brake pads are the biggest determining factor of stopping power, so get good pads. for rotors, get oem style rotors, hence 'blanks', which arent slotted or drilled. slotted and drilled is just for hard parkers if it isnt on a big brake system.
change your fluid and bleed the system when you do the brake install. stainless steel lines are definately not necessary unless you're looking to upgrade or if your stock lines are cracking.
make sure you bed in your brake pads properly. this is a very important step if you want to get the most potential out of your new pads.
first of all... dont listen to half the people that posted. you do not need to upgrade anything on your car. if your car is stock, or more or less stock, then your factory components will serve you just fine.
brake pads are the biggest determining factor of stopping power, so get good pads. for rotors, get oem style rotors, hence 'blanks', which arent slotted or drilled. slotted and drilled is just for hard parkers if it isnt on a big brake system.
change your fluid and bleed the system when you do the brake install. stainless steel lines are definately not necessary unless you're looking to upgrade or if your stock lines are cracking.
make sure you bed in your brake pads properly. this is a very important step if you want to get the most potential out of your new pads.
brake pads are the biggest determining factor of stopping power, so get good pads. for rotors, get oem style rotors, hence 'blanks', which arent slotted or drilled. slotted and drilled is just for hard parkers if it isnt on a big brake system.
change your fluid and bleed the system when you do the brake install. stainless steel lines are definately not necessary unless you're looking to upgrade or if your stock lines are cracking.
make sure you bed in your brake pads properly. this is a very important step if you want to get the most potential out of your new pads.
X2.
I have read countless threads about cross drilled and slotted rotors here. The general consensus seems to be they are a waste of money if you are going for performance. They don't cool down your daily drivers components enough to make a difference. They probably also eat pads quicker.
I would keep it stock , if you upgrade I would up it to an ex component like they said above. Sounds like the best option aside from new pads.
I have read countless threads about cross drilled and slotted rotors here. The general consensus seems to be they are a waste of money if you are going for performance. They don't cool down your daily drivers components enough to make a difference. They probably also eat pads quicker.
I would keep it stock , if you upgrade I would up it to an ex component like they said above. Sounds like the best option aside from new pads.
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