b20/vtec: possible to use b20 pistons?
I've been searching and searching but cant seem to find a direct answer to my questions. First of all, I'm in the process of putting together an automatic b20/vtec with as many stock pieces as possible. Don't rain on my parade so soon; The reason I am staying auto is because I JUST got my tranny rebuilt for $1900 with a 18mo warranty and I would hate to see that money go to waste. So far I have a complete GSR head with all stock internals, automatic JDM P72 ECU, oil line & adapter, arp head studs, arp rod bolts, GE dowel pins, itr oil pump, and vtec water pump. I'm debating on whether to get a b20b block or a b20z block (obviously the z has a little more power). My main concern is with the size of the b20 piston valve reliefs. Is there any way I can use b20 pistons, a 3-layer head gasket, and still have enough piston-valve clearance? Is there a difference in the size of the b20b reliefs vs the b20z reliefs, and if there is, which would have the wider reliefs? I really do not want to use itr, aftermarket, etc. pistons because I'm trying to get away with not tuning it (budget build). [Please don't flame I've already heard the "tune it" speech] I plan to use the stock VTEC and stock redline that is programmed on the p72 ecu, and yes i will have the arp rod bolts to allow the bottom end to spin that fast. If it is not possible to do this then uh this build will turn into a straight b20b replacement. Any help or comments will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced HT!
I've been searching and searching but cant seem to find a direct answer to my questions. First of all, I'm in the process of putting together an automatic b20/vtec with as many stock pieces as possible. Don't rain on my parade so soon; The reason I am staying auto is because I JUST got my tranny rebuilt for $1900 with a 18mo warranty and I would hate to see that money go to waste. So far I have a complete GSR head with all stock internals, automatic JDM P72 ECU, oil line & adapter, arp head studs, arp rod bolts, GE dowel pins, itr oil pump, and vtec water pump. I'm debating on whether to get a b20b block or a b20z block (obviously the z has a little more power). My main concern is with the size of the b20 piston valve reliefs. Is there any way I can use b20 pistons, a 3-layer head gasket, and still have enough piston-valve clearance? Is there a difference in the size of the b20b reliefs vs the b20z reliefs, and if there is, which would have the wider reliefs? I really do not want to use itr, aftermarket, etc. pistons because I'm trying to get away with not tuning it (budget build). [Please don't flame I've already heard the "tune it" speech] I plan to use the stock VTEC and stock redline that is programmed on the p72 ecu, and yes i will have the arp rod bolts to allow the bottom end to spin that fast. If it is not possible to do this then uh this build will turn into a straight b20b replacement. Any help or comments will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced HT!
type R cams will clear with b20 pistons
you can plunge and drag the valve pockets on those pistons to clear aftermarket cams, but then youre working with a 9:1 motor.
search omniman. he built a 260+ dynapackhp b20 with oem b20b pistons.
you can plunge and drag the valve pockets on those pistons to clear aftermarket cams, but then youre working with a 9:1 motor.
search omniman. he built a 260+ dynapackhp b20 with oem b20b pistons.
well here is what i did... b20z2 block. .020 shaved off. b16b head shaved .020 off as well. buddy club spec 3 cams. stock .030 head gasket and i was fine. o ya and i was running it to 8900 all day on just some arp rod bolts. and it made 198whp. i did clay the motor and never had a problem. if u r worried about it, just buy a dremel and then cut into the valve reliefs and make sure they are all around the same weight.
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If you don't wanna see your money go to waste, then why are you modding an auto car to begin with? You should know enough that an auto honda is just a waste of time.
I wouldn't grind down your pistons either, the geometry of a piston is the best way to raise compression, wouldn't makes sense to decrease compression when the cams will need the compression if you're staying AM
You can use any oem cam without p2v contact, if you plan on using bigger cams later look into some new slugs
How is he wasting his time and money on a automatic, there is plenty that can be done with auto
I wouldn't grind down your pistons either, the geometry of a piston is the best way to raise compression, wouldn't makes sense to decrease compression when the cams will need the compression if you're staying AM
You can use any oem cam without p2v contact, if you plan on using bigger cams later look into some new slugs
I wouldn't grind down your pistons either, the geometry of a piston is the best way to raise compression, wouldn't makes sense to decrease compression when the cams will need the compression if you're staying AM
You can use any oem cam without p2v contact, if you plan on using bigger cams later look into some new slugs
They mad my VTEC be like BWAAAH lol
PM u as soon as I get on a computer, gotta learn to ignore the idiots that's all.
Im still here soakin up info
PM u as soon as I get on a computer, gotta learn to ignore the idiots that's all.
Im still here soakin up info
Last edited by N/A; Jan 5, 2011 at 01:00 PM.
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