I decided to do a how to since I could not find anything easily when trying to replace these items. So after many days of waiting on parts and good weather, here is what I have.

Items needed:

10mm socket or wrench
12mm socket or wrench
17mm socket
19mm x2 socket/wrench
32mm socket
Heavy hammer
7/8 socket
Ball joint separator
Ball joint press w/ Honda adapters

After jacking up and securing the car with stands go ahead and remove the wheel.

Remove the axle nut using the 32mm socket

Use the 12mm to remove the brake line bolt

Use the 17mm and remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper on

Set the caliper on the A frame so its not hanging from the brake line

Remove the 10mm bolt from the abs reader and try to set it out of the way. This one may keep falling down, so keep an eye on it when working as not to damage it.

Remove the 2 19mm bolts hold the upper spindle on. You may have to use a 3/8 extension to tap the bolts through.

Remove the cotter pin and the 17mm castle nut on the bottom of the spindle

Give a good tug on the top part of the spindle while pushing the strut towards the car

I got this generic separator online for $25 shipped. It broke the pin the very first time i used it. I was able to cut it out and used a heavier duty bolt. It still bent the bolt a little bit, but still usable. You decide your route. Add some grease on the fork area and the separator bolt so its easier to turn and doesn't seize up. Hand tools only do not use power/air when turning the bolt. I found it best to push the fork under the ball joint boot at an angle. It took forever before the ball joint separated but it finally did.


This car had been sitting for a while so the axle needed some convincing from the hammer. I used the 3/8 extension after a couple good whacks to tap the rest of the way through


I then took the spindles to a near by shop to have the wheel bearings pressed in. After reinstalling I found out that the ball joints were ruined either from separating them or because they had 166k on them. Either way they just spun round and round. I ordered some replacements $40 each and rented the press tools from autozone for $235. You have to get both the press and the honda adapters.




Place the big slide through on top and the socket looking adapter over the threads.

Use the 7/8 socket to push out the old ball joint. I did the first one by hand and wrench but air was much better.

Take the new ball joint and place it in the hole securely. There is a flat adapter in the honda kit and place it on top. I then used the earlier slide through and another slide through over the treads. I also used the bigger press adapter so it would had a flat surface for the screw.



Forget about hand tools here, grab the air. Keep and eye that the slide throughs don't slip in the middle. And tighten away. Attach the C clip provided and insert the lube nozzle.



Lube the joints and reinstall everything. I have to wait until I get the C clip pliers before I get this pleasure. I can try and answer any questions or gray areas that I didn't cover.

 

Nice DIY write up.

 

I used small needle nose pliers to get my c clips on my ball joints. But the c clip pliers would have been easier since it holds the clip open.

 

Nice writeup. It's very helpful to wedge a jack between the frame and the lower control arm to relieve the tension on the system. Makes it much easier to reinstall the knuckle.

 

Added to the FAQ's.

 

Thank you, yeah i tried messing with the C clip but i left it alone after a couple failed attempts. my luck i would damage the new boot, lol.

 

So after getting the C clip in I went to putting it all back together. FAIL The darn grease fitting is to tall for the axle to slide in. The ABS ring gets caught on it. Since I already greased the ball joint i went ahead and left it off. grease didnt come out through the top after installation so i guess it will work for now. im going to try to find some shorter fittings next time i go to autozone.

 

Is this on an EP3 or EM2?

Anyway, got a question about the original ball joint. Was there a C clip on the original one? Or just the aftermarket one?

I may have gotten the wrong ball joint for my Del Sol but looks like it might work on my RSX. The ball joint I have is shorter than the one for my Del Sol but looks like the one in your pics.

 

Non-EP3, because this isn't the EP3 forum.

 

very nice diy write up i just wanted to share this with you. its a s/b from honda about the ball joint. it has you look at a stamping mark on the ball joint. depend on what you have youmay need to replace that knuckle because repalcement balljoint doesnt fit correctly in the hole and will pop out. ive seen it happen before and it could get ugly.

 

Has anyone treed removing the ball joints without removing the knuckle/hub assembly. I have to do mine tomorrow but im trying to remove as least as possible. I was thinking just hitting it with a hammer to get it out of the knuckle,then use either a no-bounce hammer or a c clamp to get the new one in the knuckle.

 

Yeah, I figured it out afterwards when I noticed the tranny wasn't on the driver's side.


Anyway, to the OP, you said you got the ball joints at Autozone? What brand of ball joints? I have a theory these would work in the 02-04 RSX.

 

i tried hitting it with a hammer and had no luck. thats why i had to buy the tool. and unless you are heman master of the universe you are not going to press them in with a C clamp.

i dont remember the brand bj i used. i just asked for them and they gave em to me.

 

Or you can use a vise if you don't have a C-clamp

 

hey i installed these today but forgot to put the little grease L-shaped things on, is this gonna make a difference? i tried to screw them on afterwards but there's not enough room to get them in, the axel's in the way. how important are these? I noticed that the ball joint has grease in it already.

also did lower control arm bushings. frustrating. finally took em to a mechanic to have em pressed in. next time maybe just would buy new arms.

last week i put 4 new struts in. right now i never want to look at the inside of the wheel wells again haha.

 

hi do you have a complete manual Service Bulletin
https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...8&d=1237221213
for body engine ...

 

We do not post links to, or allow the download of pirated copyrighted literature.


If you want a 2001 - 2005 Honda Civic Service Manual you will have to buy one, or, find a pirated copy without the assistance of Honda-Tech or its members.

 

Is it safe to leave the C clip off? When I took off the stock ball joint - it didn't have a C clip.

 

Hey guys~
After reading this write up, I actually went and did my ball joints, but I noticed that on the back of my hub, there is a ring that sits against the inside of the hub, not the bearing. So where the axle would go in. I looked at the last picture of this and noticed you didnt have one. I was concerned because one of my hubs had one, and the other didn't. I even tried looking for the part on honda hookups or alldata, and it doesn't show that part.

 

Just did all 4 in mine...i feel your pain hah

 

*bow down* thanks for this write up..u just saved my ***!!!

 

AWESOME write-up, thanks. So which part of this is the actual bearing? I have a hydraulic press at work and could probably make my own adapter

Also, I'm a little confused about the ball joint. So if I get one from the dealer, it should fit, but the one from AZ doesn't?

Thanks in advance...

 

Bump... anyone? I may just take the knuckle to the dealer and let them deal with it.

 

The round thing in the middle? It's inside the knuckle.

The zerk fittings got in the way of reinstallation. Avoid using ball-joints with zerk fittings.

 

One very big thing the op has to note, is to mark the top of the hub where the bolts go into the strut so that you can re align this to somewhat close location.
other than that great right up.