After a long hard struggle my car is finished. Had the car tuned and I am happy with the peak Hp but I feel like my car is lacking torque in the mid range and on top. Can you please help me and give me advice to fix this problem. People I spoke to think I must swap my cams for Skunk2 tuner2's??? Also please give me your views and comments on my build good or bad….

Specs of the build:
B20Z sub assembly
B16 head
BC4 cams
Blox Velocity Stack
Precision 440cc injectors
Walbaro Fuel pump
Omni valve train
Endyn 12:1 pistons
Eagle rods
Golden Eagle sleeve brace
GSR girdle
Skunk pro manifold
Skunk 68mm TB
Hytech copy – small tube
BC exhaust
Dicktator stand alone ECU (Locally made engine management system)
Think that's that.

The car made 173.4kw (233hp) and 210nm (154.9). It makes more peak power than any other B20’s in the area but the mid range power is less with +- 25nm (18.44).

*Did conversion from kw to hp hope it's correct*

The car in question


Hytech copy


Motor out


Sleeve Brace Welded


GSR girdle fitted and modified


Sub assembly done


Motor in


Dyno


Results

 

nice build. In my opinion as I just finished building mine and its very similar to yours....but I went with 12.5 pistons from CP.eagle rods, stage 4 Buddy club cams, Ferrea valvetrain, port and polish, Edelbrock Victor X mani, DC sport Type R header, custom 2.5" exhaust, stage 4 6 puck clutch, 550 injectors (little overkill, but turn down fP), Skunk 2 Cam gears, and a chipped p72 per chrome and still awaiting to get it street and dyno tuned. Very small differences and i'm crossing my fingers for 240-250.

 

nice build bro GL, love both build and the engine!

where is this capetown?

 

whats wrong with the bc4 cams, basically a tuner2 with a more agressive primary lobes.
you may want to re-consider using that all aluminum pulley. get a bigger exhaust and that thing will wake up.

 

was your head stock? no port or valve jobs? if so, thats prob why. gurantee if you had those done you could hit 250hp...

great build tho...

 

Why???

I did alot of research before going with the Unorthodox racing underdrive pulley. All I found were internet myths and people that confuse it with a harmonic balancer.

 

But the OEM pulley IS a harmonic balance. If you look at the front, you can clearly see a rubber isolator. And if you look on the back-side, you can clearly see the intertia ring surrounded by rubber on both sides....

 

beautiful car man nice build

 

i had the same pulley for a little while. the alumnium pully has no form of vibration/harmonic absorbsion, like a oem, ati or the fluidamper. go ahead use the unothodox, i dont care isnt my motor, it was just my opinion/advice. i just use a stock pulley.

 

Yes, I stay in Cape Town how did you know?

The head is ported with a valve job. This was the only head I could find and it was ported for a turbo application so I think I might be loosing out there to.

I used the OEM pulley

 

your brake booster was on the right making your car a rhd! your car is clearly an ek4 vti, the whether is clearly very nice and it looks like there is a sea or ocean on the background, you had access to an builder and tuner and with all that said there was only a few options, either malta,cyprus,south africa or australia, so I checked your
dyno chart a saw .za and found out it indeed was south africa!

we too have rhd ek4 vti's in cyprus, the best part is cyprus has the best of both worlds, both edm and jdm cars!

 

Thats some handy detective work, Mr. Holmes. do you find yourself suprised his stock sleeves didnt explode?

 

thanks conan!

well we cant say his b20z is considered stock now can we? he has almost every step I was refering to within that other thread! he has the gsr girdle,stronger rods,pistons and a blockguard all which I said were needed IMO though! this is why I love his build! lets not turn this thread into pieces and just wish him GL with his car and build!

 

The rubber ring on the stock pulley is for harmonics as in under the hood noise. It has nothing to do with engine balance whatsoever as hondas are internally balanced.

 

I was told that if you run a cold air intake it will get you more mid power, not sure on that. I have the password intake and mine was the same mid. So im going to try a aem short ram with a velocity stack.

 

interesting nice build

my setup is nearly the same as yours...also B16 Head (no headwork), Skunk Stuff and so on...only differences are the cams ( Crower S2 ) and the Intake (AEM V2)

my engine puts out 169.9 Kw (231 hp) and 223 Nm (171,9 ftlb)

my next cams would be S2S2, RM M22 oder Endyn Bumpstix

 

I still need more options to raise my torque, any ideas?