98 accord overheating plz help
I have a 98 honda accord thats overheating only in slow traffic and stops .I've checked there is no leak coolant fluids are good but the fan doesnt operate correctly and yes the fans still works I tested when I turn on the a/c .but wont trigger when the engine is hot any help to solve this problem
The thermoswitch turns on the radiator fan when it reaches a certain temperature (for example, when it heats up above normal). In your first post, you stated the fan doesn't work properly as it won't trigger when it is hot.
I had this problem back when I first used this board. My trouble was the stealthy little Thermoswitch A. I say stealthy because of where it is located on my 93. https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...853&highlight=
The part looks like this. Again, mine is a 1993:
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/G503065138NTC.JPG
Let's see. My switch lasted 11 years and yours is now 11 years old.
The part looks like this. Again, mine is a 1993:
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/G503065138NTC.JPG
Let's see. My switch lasted 11 years and yours is now 11 years old.
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Water boiling is well past the temp at which that switch should close. Anyway, you don't need to break out the bunsen burner, pyrex tubes.
Pull the connector on the switch with the car cold. Use an inexpensive little multimeter to probe the connectors on the switch and there should be no continuity because the switch is cold and open. Then start the car and let it start warming up. Continue to check for continuity between the terminals on that switch. If there is no continuity after the car is well warmed and even getting a bit hot then that switch is your problem.
On mine, the condensor fan switch closes at a temp slightly higher than radiator fan switch, so if the condensor fan comes on and the radiator fan still has not, then that radiator fan Switch A is the suspect.
If you end up buying that switch, you're better off taking the old one with you to the Honda parts counter or having the exact part # in hand. The car has several switches that stick into coolant flow that have similar names and even Honda gets them confused.
Pull the connector on the switch with the car cold. Use an inexpensive little multimeter to probe the connectors on the switch and there should be no continuity because the switch is cold and open. Then start the car and let it start warming up. Continue to check for continuity between the terminals on that switch. If there is no continuity after the car is well warmed and even getting a bit hot then that switch is your problem.
On mine, the condensor fan switch closes at a temp slightly higher than radiator fan switch, so if the condensor fan comes on and the radiator fan still has not, then that radiator fan Switch A is the suspect.
If you end up buying that switch, you're better off taking the old one with you to the Honda parts counter or having the exact part # in hand. The car has several switches that stick into coolant flow that have similar names and even Honda gets them confused.
I've fixed the problem and it wasnt my thermoswitch it was my waterpump leaking coolint but after I got done replacing it but now my check engine light is on dont know why dont want to take it to honda to scan it cost too much. I was started to think maybe the timing might be off...
Glad you got the other problem fixed. You didn't say anything about smelling coolant or seeing any puddles under the car.
You could try going to Auto Zone and having them read the code for you. Make a note of the code and then ask them to clear the code. Start engine and see if the code pops back in and then get that one read. If it is the same as the first, whatever system the code points to is the one to look into. Even if its something major, you don't want to take your car to a shop without having some idea what the CEL is pointing you to.
You could try going to Auto Zone and having them read the code for you. Make a note of the code and then ask them to clear the code. Start engine and see if the code pops back in and then get that one read. If it is the same as the first, whatever system the code points to is the one to look into. Even if its something major, you don't want to take your car to a shop without having some idea what the CEL is pointing you to.
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