E manage or AFC?
Hi, I have a 01 Integra type R with some mods and I want to tune it! I cant afford hondata right now and I dont think I am experienced enough to get into real depth with it so which would be a better piggy back system? Greddy e manage, or apexi AFC neo? What would you guys recommend.
Modifications are:
PP 4-1 header
Blox test pipe
Apexi N1 cat back
Comptech icebox
SRP 11.0:1 pistons
exedy clutch
exedy lightweight flywheel
hondata IM gasket
Modifications are:
PP 4-1 header
Blox test pipe
Apexi N1 cat back
Comptech icebox
SRP 11.0:1 pistons
exedy clutch
exedy lightweight flywheel
hondata IM gasket
So basically, screw both e manage and afc and buy hondata? I know its better but I was not asking for you to recommend hondata.... I want to know which piggy back system is a better choice for right now
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"Why piggybacks (vafc, emanage) "suck" by pgmfi:
Piggy Back controllers allow stock ECUs to do things that they normally can't do, like run larger injectors or deal with boost. Remember that piggyback controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.
Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the Map Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying more fuel.
The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used. (see Understanding Maps if you need some help understanding reading Fuel and Ign tables)
But wait, isn't the Map Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.
The bottom line: Piggy Back Controllers suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable."
(quoted from Mtber's site) http://www.phearable.net/tech/efibeginnerguide.html
Read more there.
OP, were all just trying to save you from a couple headaches (or worse) but if your not familiar with tuning really, then dont buy an AFC controller just to have an expensive piece of bling to sit next to your head unit.Find an experienced tuner or shop that offers these services and have them tune you motor (unless you feel like practicing on your ITR and potentially destroying your motor while learning).
Chipping & reflashing your ECU ROM, using daughterboard add-on's like Hondata & Neptune (which work through your factory ECU), or even the Stand-alone systems (like AEM or Motec) are all really the only way's to truly "tune" an EFI vehicle correctly.
Piggy Back controllers allow stock ECUs to do things that they normally can't do, like run larger injectors or deal with boost. Remember that piggyback controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.
Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the Map Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying more fuel.
The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used. (see Understanding Maps if you need some help understanding reading Fuel and Ign tables)
But wait, isn't the Map Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.
The bottom line: Piggy Back Controllers suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable."
(quoted from Mtber's site) http://www.phearable.net/tech/efibeginnerguide.html
Read more there.
OP, were all just trying to save you from a couple headaches (or worse) but if your not familiar with tuning really, then dont buy an AFC controller just to have an expensive piece of bling to sit next to your head unit.Find an experienced tuner or shop that offers these services and have them tune you motor (unless you feel like practicing on your ITR and potentially destroying your motor while learning).
Chipping & reflashing your ECU ROM, using daughterboard add-on's like Hondata & Neptune (which work through your factory ECU), or even the Stand-alone systems (like AEM or Motec) are all really the only way's to truly "tune" an EFI vehicle correctly.
Last edited by DC_Legacy; Mar 2, 2009 at 03:35 PM.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,926
Likes: 2
From: That's the wrong tone... I'm Skunk2 certified.
Tuning is everything. You've already spent all this money on parts, assembly, and labor. Spend a little more not to blow it all up. You don't need hondata if you use something like crome or uberdata. Get a chipped ECU (or chip it yourself), and find someone to tune it.
Honestly, a Hondata S100 setup IS NOT that much more expensive over a E-manage or VAFC. Yes, it does cost more, and times are tough, but shop around and keep an eye out on the classifieds. With people jumping on the S300 setups, there are pre-owend S100 setups for reasonable prices. I picked up a P28 chipped with S100 and a OBD1 - OBD2A adapter for a little over a hundred bucks. Found the seller on Craigslist. Yes, that was sheer luck, but point is, there are S100 chipped P28's out there for the price point of a new E-Manage box.
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