Hey Everybody,

My daily driver is a g35s sedan, which i traded my evo in for.. , my evo made about 480awhp and was a great street car, ran mid 11's and was awesome. I kind of got sick of the game and picked up the g ride. Ive always wanted a hatch and now im gonna pick one up as a second car to have fun with.

My goals with the car are to have a fast NA street car, would like to break low 12's high 11's, still be reliable(to an extent), i would only want it for straight line street pulls, power from a roll mostly. Anyway, is the h22 a good route for my goals, or should i take a different route on motor. As far as price goes, i would like the best bang for the buck really. Or would the k20 better for what im looking for. Ive been reading alot on these boards lately trying to educate myself as best as possible.

Sorry for the long opening, just figured id be detailed,
all of your guys help and input is greatly appreciated!
Thanks

 

b20vtec or k20 get my vote if you have the money for it then a k20

 

k20 would be great. Thats what i want in mines but cant afford it yet. X2 if you have the money for a k20.

 

K24/K20 head FTW

 

h22 is an amazing machine. Runs good on 40weight

 

thanks for the input, i am doing the swap myself, im contemplating between buying a shell and dropping a k20 or buying a clean hatch with h22 in it, and building the h22, which is the reason i posted this thread, to get input from fellow members. Thanks

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19u0r...667044&index=3

 

haha, i live in san diego where team 1320 is and am friends with some of the crew, i just texted my buddy on team 1320 and he said k24 bored out to a 2.6 with k20 head!! just an ironic video! please keep input coming! Im leaning towards k20!

 

k20 head with k24 block...if not then k20 swap in a eg will break 12's...and if you upgrade the internals then 11s for sure...and it will be a reliable dd...only if you have the money to spend on it...also i've heard of the g series...h22 head on a f22 block(accord sohc block)...yes sohc...heard it made 260hp and 180tq stock...

 

if you have the money, k20 all the way. Go with s2000 motor with k-tranny.

 

F20b

 

i can get my hands on a local k20a2 a friend of mine has... please correct me if im wrong, the a2 is out of a usdm rsx-s and has an 11:1 compression ratio...and the k20a is out of jdm rsx-r with an 11.5:1 compression ratio. Whats the difference in the stock for stock motors?? If im not mistaken, they both have the same stroke and bore..which would mean same potential built right? Will a diff head to make the a2 compression 11.5:1 solve the problem...or no?With a built k20a2 head and bottom end is it gonna make a difference in the long run?? For now i would just drop it in stock and pull it later to build....thanks guys, i really appreciate all the help this far

 

K20 for sure, My DD is a K20(2.1L, so I guess you could call it a K21? lol) but for sure the most ideal motor swap if you're staying N/A. So fun to drive, run 12's on a stock, bolt-on, tuned motor and 11's with minor work.

To answer your question about changing the head to change the compression ratio, No. It will not raise it by changing to another K20 head. K20a2's have 11.7:1 compression ratio, as does the K20z1. The K20a, you are correct, has 11.5:1.

 

Or you could just save alot of money and buy my car.

 

haha ^

i love your car steve, im still undecided because i dont know if it has the potential that i want!

Okay, i was pretty positive k20a2 from rsx-s had 11:1 compression??
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-2001-2005-78/faq-what-engine-should-i-put-my-em2-es1-1759092/
just found that link when i searched this site, not trying to step on toes, just wanna make sure all my facts are correct and i can make an educated decision..thanks

Okay so my question now...is the difference between the k20a2 and the k20a seems to be in the head correct? What components in the head are different? Where is the 20hp and 10tq coming from?
And...again correct me if im wrong the k20a comes with lsd and the k20a2 does not? im just trying to see now if the k20a is worth the extra couple thousand..
Thanks again for all the help with this.

 

If you want to run in the 11's and have 10-15 g's to spend to get there, an EG w/ a K series is for you.

 

K20A-R or K24 w/ A2 head matched with a 6 speed tranny.

 

?still trying to figure this one out?? :/

 

Cams are different. IDK if the K20A has any kind of port work, or not. I know that was one of the differences with the old B18C-Rs. Can anyone confirm whether or not the K20A heads have any kind of headwork from the factory?

The transmission probably has a different gearset in addition to the LSD.

 

Thanks for the replies, so if that is the case, which was im assuming, it can be fixed with a built head? Therefore in the long term giving the k20a2 the same power potential as the k20a..

 

??

 

ttt

 

you can break 11s w/ a stock internal H2B while keeping the stock header and make more power than a stock k series while doing it

 

If I recall correctly, difference is the pistons, cams, a more aggressive fuel and timing map on the ecu, gear set, and LSD. I was talking about it with a builder a while back while he was testing toda cams for clearance and didn't pay it too much attention because I don't expect to get a k-swap in the near future.

 

Why would it not have the potential you're looking for. You said low 12's - high 11's right?