I have a couple of questions for you 2.0L ITR guys. I did do some researching but I'd like to know what YOUR builds and experiences are.

Current Modifications:
3" SRI w/ BPI V-Stack
Hytech Anti-reversion Header
T1R 63mm Exhaust
Skunk2Stage2 Cams
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Supertech Flatface valves
Supertech Bronze Guides
Supertech Dual Valve Springs
Supertech Stem Seals
OEM retainers

I'm currently burning 2 qts every 500 miles.
I have a couple options but of course they have their pros and cons.
My goal is 210whp and 150wtq.

What do you guys recommend?

A) Reringing ($1400) but it'll make the same power
B) ITR complete shortblock ($2300 new) but its a bit pricey and same power
C) B20 but many say their walls are very thin and aren't reliable. ($700 used)
D) LS sleeved to 84mm from Golden Eagle for ($1900) complete with RS ITR machine pistons and Eagle rods. (I can sell my block to offset the price)
E) Sleeve/bore my ITR block to 84mm ($1700) but for a couple hundred more I can have a "stronger" block.

Are any of you guys sleeving/boring your ITR blocks to 84mm? Are you guys daily driving it? What are your mods and numbers?

 

i drive my B20VTEC R every chance i get (damn near every day), didnt buy it or build it to look at in my garage. i made 220whp/148fttq, but made a couple changes, and need some more cam gear tuning. i hope to pick up some more torque on redyno.

ill dig up the dyno and info later as im tired, and my computer that had all that crap crashed. but its a B20B bottom w/Eagles and RS pistons, P72 head with S2 PRO2+ valvetrain set, tri-y header, etc. i love the setup! amazing 5th gear power, and just all low cam tq. i would suggest it, but it is aggressive.

is your motor VIN'ed to the chassis? if it is, KEEP IT!!!!!!!!! my R's original motor is being sported in a hatch somewhere right now, so i have no problem throwing whatever i can think of in it. BUT if it was VIN'ed? i probably would have sent that bad boy to BENSON and had him sleeve it to 84-85mm, or kept it in the corner of my garage.

"B20's have weak sleeves" story? doesnt bother me. my tuner is great, setup is solid, cooling system is great. so i have no worries. i might be more concerned if it was hotter here, or if i road raced.

 

The VIN is matched to the chassis, I just want bigger and better. Ill probably end up leaving it in my basement anyways just in case something happens. So your setup will be very very similar to mine with the exception of my skunk2stage2 cams. How many miles do you have on your set up? Thats alot of torque you have there =D


I forgot to mention that I already have factory overbore pistons. (.25 over)

 

if your rings are so bad that you are burning 2 quarts in 500 miles then i highly doublt you would make the same power re-ringed.

You are leaving alot of HP on the table.

 

i probably have 3k on it in my R, the another 3K or so in my hatch.

 

old dyno. new one hopefully soon.


219.31whp 147.62ft tq

 

Nice graph I HOPE to put down that much when im done

 

Very nice! What kind of throttle body and intake manifold are you using?

 

i went with a DART block ..no worries here...its a 2.0 tall block bored to 2.1

 

Why not just use option A and spend the rest on HPDEs and hookers and beer?

 

PBTuning portmatched AEBS intake manifold, and 70mm TB. but i have since upgraded to a PBTuning 74mm TB.

 

Lots of options for sure.

With S2 Stage 2 cams I made 206, 138 on a std. overbore ITR bottom end with JDM ITR pistons, head cut 40k, and Mugen gasket.

My current build is 85mm ITR block (Golden Eagle), gsr crank, Pro1 + cams. Dyno chart attached.

You can do a million different builds all with slightly different results. With mine I wanted a big flat torque curve and a motor I didn't have to rev the **** out of. We sampled a bunch of different parts and headers, and while we made more HP it came at another 300 rpm and gave up some of the mid-range power. Bigger stroke will yield better results but you'll typically see faster ring wear from increased side loading and faster piston speeds.

Finally, don't skimp on the build. Take it to someone who really knows what they are doing: King, donf, etc.... Listen to what they have to say, and don't cut corners on the cost.

Good luck.

 

now thats a nice tq curve.

 

you can pretty much go any of those route. i did a 2.0 stroker i spent more money this way but i wanted to still see the b18c5 engine code.lol seriously here's the link to my car https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-type-r-8/2-0l-type-r-lots-pics-2504881/ not tuned yet but i dropping it off wednesday and i post the numbers! good luck on the build man!

 

how much more power did you get by upgrading the size from 70 to 74mm? im running itb's on my 2.0l itr and think about skipping it and just doing a regular setup!

 

i havent redynoed since then. PBTuning said that he got 20cfm more flow out of it, so when i swapped chassis i got the updated TB. i also made some other small changes when i swapped chassis, so there might be some differences in the dynos.

 

when u built ur type r did you do everything at once, like all the mods. And wen u did how did your itr feel before it was tuned. I got mine sent to a shop an spent About 8000 on everything my mods are listed on the link above. But right now as I break in my car I feel like my torque went up sustantially at low rpms. But after 6000 rpms and when vtec engages I feel like it was slower than before. Is that normal cuz it's not tuned and I have a stock ecu? Or should I worry about the car not being assembled properly?

 

you spent 8k on a all motor set up and think its slower then then be4???

8k is alot of money to spend and you feel its slow......

 

Why are you doing WOT pulls when its not even tuned? Why are you even driving around with it not being tuned? IMO if you are already doing WOT pulls you probably already damaged the motor....

 

No I'm n. Not beating on it. I took it over 6000 rpms 3 times to make sure vtec works I'm put 600 miles on it now and I'm getting it tuned in 2 days

 

I wouldn't even have taken it up to 6000 rpms. I drove around for 2 days until my appointment for the tune, and I stayed under 3500rpms the whole time.