90 Civic Upper Arm Assembly - Knuckle loose
I have a 90 Civic LX sedan manual trans. It recently developed a left-right shake in the steering wheel. Most posts on the Net and a local Honda-specific shop suggested a tire problem. It needs new tires, anyway, so I am having them installed, tomorrow. Hopefully, that will solve the shaking issue.
When checking the tires for possible causes of the steering wheel shake, I notice the joint attaching the upper arm assembly to the knuckle on the passenger side is loose. When I rock the tire left to right, this joint makes a metal-on-metal sound, and I can easily feel the movement in the joint. It has probably been that way for some time, I would guess.
Working on this area of the vehicle is somewhat new to me; I have not had a reason to work in this area, before.
My question is what should I consider replacing? Could I get by with replacing the ball joint boot? That would be ideal, but I guess I am thinking the metal of the two parts (upper arm assembly and knuckle) may have worn over time due to the physical contact between them. But, as you know, the two main parts add up dollar-wise. Still, it would be cheaper to replace them than to spring for a new(er) vehicle.
My Chilton manual does not describe replacing the knuckle, so I am not sure if there will be surprises in store for me. I've read some threads, here, on removing the knuckle from the hub and popping the lower ball joint loose. Any information on removing and replacing the upper arm assembly and the knuckle would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Carpenter0026
When checking the tires for possible causes of the steering wheel shake, I notice the joint attaching the upper arm assembly to the knuckle on the passenger side is loose. When I rock the tire left to right, this joint makes a metal-on-metal sound, and I can easily feel the movement in the joint. It has probably been that way for some time, I would guess.
Working on this area of the vehicle is somewhat new to me; I have not had a reason to work in this area, before.
My question is what should I consider replacing? Could I get by with replacing the ball joint boot? That would be ideal, but I guess I am thinking the metal of the two parts (upper arm assembly and knuckle) may have worn over time due to the physical contact between them. But, as you know, the two main parts add up dollar-wise. Still, it would be cheaper to replace them than to spring for a new(er) vehicle.
My Chilton manual does not describe replacing the knuckle, so I am not sure if there will be surprises in store for me. I've read some threads, here, on removing the knuckle from the hub and popping the lower ball joint loose. Any information on removing and replacing the upper arm assembly and the knuckle would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Carpenter0026
Get on ebay and buy a new set of upper control arms. They will include the balljoints. I just did almost the exact same thing on my 91 STD hatch. Works like a charm! The kits can include everything to basically rebuild all joints in the front suspension: inner tie rod ends, outer tie rod ends, upper control arms, lower balljoints, and swaybar endlinks. The whole it was like $120 shipped to my door.
yup sounds like upper ball joints, try your local parts store as well sometimes you get a killer deal on the entire upper arms and include new ball joints and bushings.
Unless you plan on upgrading, I'd go to a junkyard, get an upper control arm with a good ball joint, and be done with it. Just make sure there's no play in the joint itself.
You wouldn't be replacing the "knuckle" only the upper control arm with the ball joint pressed in. Typically, at least most places near me, only sell the ball joint with the upper control arm since it requires machine/auto shop service. The reason is most people don't have the correct tools or a press.
The easiest way would be to purchase a whole new upper assembly. After that the install is very easy and straight forward. Below is a list of steps (maybe not all of them exactly) but it should give you a pretty good idea.
1.) Jack up the front of the car and block it so it won't roll.
2.) Pop the hood and take off the tire.
3.) Locate the upper control arm and in the center where it attaches to the "knuckle" you will see TWO 10 mm bolts. These hold on the nut shield, remove these.
4.) Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut and remove the 17 mm castle nut.
5.) *Now you can use a 3+ LB hammer but a Pickle/Ball Joint/Tie-Rod Fork works the best.* Separate the upper control arm from the "knuckle". Be prepared because the hub assembly/lower control arm could shoot down with some force (it will not damage anything).
6.) Now take off the TWO (can't remember what size) nuts off that are on either side of the strut.
7.) Remove the upper control arm.
8.) Installation is reverse of removal except for the hammering part of course.
*When putting the ball joint stud into the "knuckle" you may find it easier to put a jack on the lower control arm/ball joint and apply some upward pressure to get the nut on the upper ball joint.*
The easiest way would be to purchase a whole new upper assembly. After that the install is very easy and straight forward. Below is a list of steps (maybe not all of them exactly) but it should give you a pretty good idea.
1.) Jack up the front of the car and block it so it won't roll.
2.) Pop the hood and take off the tire.
3.) Locate the upper control arm and in the center where it attaches to the "knuckle" you will see TWO 10 mm bolts. These hold on the nut shield, remove these.
4.) Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut and remove the 17 mm castle nut.
5.) *Now you can use a 3+ LB hammer but a Pickle/Ball Joint/Tie-Rod Fork works the best.* Separate the upper control arm from the "knuckle". Be prepared because the hub assembly/lower control arm could shoot down with some force (it will not damage anything).
6.) Now take off the TWO (can't remember what size) nuts off that are on either side of the strut.
7.) Remove the upper control arm.
8.) Installation is reverse of removal except for the hammering part of course.
*When putting the ball joint stud into the "knuckle" you may find it easier to put a jack on the lower control arm/ball joint and apply some upward pressure to get the nut on the upper ball joint.*
Get on ebay and buy a new set of upper control arms. They will include the balljoints. I just did almost the exact same thing on my 91 STD hatch. Works like a charm! The kits can include everything to basically rebuild all joints in the front suspension: inner tie rod ends, outer tie rod ends, upper control arms, lower balljoints, and swaybar endlinks. The whole it was like $120 shipped to my door.
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jacksonww
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jul 18, 2009 09:11 PM




