B20V

GSR Head w/full supertech valve train (springs/retainers/flat faced STD valves)
"Buddy Club Spec 4's" - they were degree'd. I do not remember the settings on the gears.
Blox intake mani w/PP 68mm TB along w/a 3" intake tube
RC 550's
Hondata IM shield gasket
Hytech replica header 2.5" exhaust w/2.5 magnaflow cat and 36" resonator (turn down @ just before the fuel tank"
3 layer headgasket

B20 block w/84.5mm RS ITR's
LS rods
ARP rod bolts and head studs
Balanced bottom end
Fluidampr damper (street)

OBD1 conversion
MSD external coil mod
tuned on S300

Base was 187 (on crome which kept throwing code 22, so we hard wired the press. switch to the ECU and disabled vtec press in crome. turned out my ECU had a problem IE it was shocked by me )
we ended at 211 / 143 on S300



-did I get scammed on the cams?
-is my compression a lot higher than we thought? Originally it was assumed to be somewhere in the lower 12:1 range...
-should i set my cams to 0 / 0 on the gears? I think they're currently at -3 / -1

 

what fuel was it tuned on

 

91. the more timing that was removed the more power it seemed to make.

 

your dyno numbers are just numbers from the way your graph looks it seems like your motor is happy.

 

for 91 octane, not sure what you were expecting.. and your head is stock. Also why don;t you know your exact compression?

 

Did you set them this way on the dyno ?

 

the cams were degree'd using Buddy Clubs specs. they were degree'd by a friend of mine as I couldnt figure out how to do it.

how do i not know what my compression is? cuz I"m not genius. I asked questions and thats what I as told.

the head is not stock, its fully ported.

 

So you set the cam gears at the specs Buddy club states?

You didnt touch them at all on the dyno ?

 

No we didn't. I dont wanna risk my head by adjusting them. I dont know how safe it would be to do this. I recommended setting them to 0 / 0 and the idea was frowned upon, possibly because it was late in the evening and they were ready to go home?

 

After reading all yours parts I was expecting to see something starting at 220whp. Then I read it again. Two things stood out.
You don't need the MSD coil, try going back to stock and stock wires. Not a big power increase but it could be an issue.
Second item was the intake manifold. Blox is a copy of Skunk2's but which one. If it is Skunk2s older manifolds the intake runner angle is incorrect for the GSR head. Get the newer Skunk2 Pro Series or Edelbrock PERFORMER X INTAKE.
I noticed you have your dyno data on WinPEP7 would you be able to post a graph with SAE numbers.

 

WTF that is not even a fully built motor what did you expect ? 240 ish ? lol but nice numbers for the b20/VTEC N/A.

My Ls/VTEC is at 206.

 

We ended up switching to a stock distributor and it picked up power, switched back and lost it. I also have NGK wires w/NGK BKR6's if that matters.

As far as the Intake Manifold, with it being a copy of the older skunk2, I figured it wouldnt help out much if at all, however I picked it up at a good price... looks like I'm paying the price now... lol.

So far I've determined I need to get a better manifold and get rid of the external coil... Sweet.

I never said anything about it being fully built. The head, yes it is. The block is still cast pistons/stock rods.

 

Do you happen to have the flow numbers off the head? Did they give you the combustion chamber volume also? With the chamber volume and the other specs you should be able to get a better idea of compression than low 12:1. I would say double check to make sure your not really in the high 11:1 range.

 

No on all accounts.

Would removing timing through out the powerband net more power on a high 11:1 engine?

 

Two questions:

1) Are you sure those cams are BC4?

2) Are you sure they were degree'd correctly?

 

Even if compression were high 11s, I've seen these set-up make 220+ whp consistantly.

 

Two answers.

1. No, I'm not 100% sure. Nor do I know exactly how to tell without removing them and having them measured. User "patriot" built an NA B20V using the same cams, I sent him a PM asking him if he knew how to identify them. I bought them used off G2ic from a member who also had them on here for sale.

The only marking on the end of the cam (distributor side) is an "A"... which leads me to believe they were Blox A's or Buddy Club 4's "A Batch". I was lead after a little bit of research that Buddy Club made an A batch as well as a B batch of the IV's.

2. My friend who did them seems to know his stuff. So I can only assume so.

 

For what it's worth, the engine has >30 miles on it.

 

Lastly...

210 and 143 on SAE corrected.

 

Why the hell is a 210/143 on a budget/stock build a "dissapointment?? For cryin out loud, you threw about the cheapest **** you can get at a b20 and then complain you didn't break 240 for whatever the hell. LOL! Ridiculous. Be happy with your budget motor, so what if it's not a dyno queen. Get over it.

 

wow dude seriously those are really good numbers.... i seriously don't know why you're dissapointed. Just do some minor tweaking and you'll find a few more ponies..

 

Contact Buddy Club and see what they say.

 

Define the term "fully." What camshafts did the person recommend who did your cylinder head work?

 

This.


and this...

 

It's simple; I expected more...

Uhm... what? What exactly am I supposed to ask? The last time I called them they told me their specs were on their site. With that said, these are the specs we used to degree the cams.

Intake
37° BTDC / 49° ABDC

Exhaust
61° BBDC / 21° ATDC

Since I bought them used, I didnt get a spec sheet and BC didnt really seem to want to offer any help, nor did the seller of the cams.

It's called their "Stage 2.5 Port", it's done by a local shop called Nolands (in KC). They claimed to have done a B16 head that flowed in the mid 290's cfm. I didn't feel like paying the $80 they wanted to flow one cylinder, so I never got any confirmation. I know their port work works well on boosted cars. They didn't recommend any cam for my setup.



Sorry I came on here asking questions about the build... sheesh. I'll remember not to do so next time.