Has anyone ever boosted or know someone who boosted a d-series motor with over 130K miles?

My car has about 135K, but it runs absolutely perfect.

I would only push 6 or 7 psi.

What do you think?

 

I'm working on my first boost build right now but I've got 2 things different from your question. 1. I have 550k (~343miles) on my original d16z6 and 2. I have a back up motor that I wanna build in the mean time while I wait for mine to go. d-series are relitively cheap. I say boost it, tune it properly and don't try to kill your car and get another motor to build. it seems to me the majority of people who boost, wanna go higher boost later anyway so why not run what you can for now and start building for more later. plus that'll help you get used to that kind of power so you don't get bored of you new found power to quick and you don't get killed, hurt or worse becuase of inexperience.

 

Dang, that's a lot of miles! D-series motors are pretty damn stout.

I agree, even if it blows eventually I will be onto another project anyway, most likely prepare a b-series swap for it.

Thanks for your opinion!

 

honda's are reliable and the d is the best for that imo. less moving parts. I take good care of my motor. I change the oil frequently plugs, wires other maint. I beat the crap outta it and hit redline alot but I also do alot of highway. my mother live about 400k (250miles) away and I go visit her about once a month for the last 7 years since I left my hometown. I also do things like drive th the west coast of vancouver Ils. just cuz. I also don't really winter drive the car. not just because of the bad weather but the bad drivers in bad weather. here in Toronto we had something stupid like 900 accidents in the first snowfall of 08.

Maintenance your car, get it tuned and most of all take the time to visually inspect your car once in a while. I do my own work so everytime I lift the car to change the oil I check for things like worn ball joints, brakes, etc. when my turbo build is done I'll be taking off the air filter and charge piping to inspect the turbine. if that goes the fins explode and get sucked into your engine. this is very bad (obviously) and if you rengine is tuned properly, prolly your biggest concern about relaibility of your boosted D. keep it stock internals, at your 6-7 psi you intended and don't cheap out on the turbo itself. the charge piping has no moving parts so it's not so bad to cheap out on but things like a cheap BOV that breaks and sends parts into your intake not so much

 

130k isnt that much. what it reeally depends on is how the motor runs. might want to try a leakdown test. if the motor is in good condition, boost away!

 

How could I preform a leakdown test? And what other easy inspections can I do to make sure it is safe?

I plan to build my own kit, what can I expect for the cost of a high quality turbo, just the snail? I'm aiming for $200 most likely used.

 

One of the locals that boost's D's swears by higher mileage engines, more slop=more room for piston expansion....
I've boosted 2 D's, one a low mile sohc ZC with afc hack, and the other on a 158K mile Y7 tuned with crome. The Y7 is still running good and it's been 2 years now.
Get a used stock RB25DET turbo(R33 only-R34's had plastic compressor wheels) for quick spool.
-Or a 87-88 RX-7 T2 turbo for a little more top end(will pull all the way to redline but spools slower).
Either of these can be had for around $200 and bolt to a T3 flanged manifold. Hopefully you have some general mechanic skills required to plumb the oil feed and drain, coolant in and out, and clock the housings the right way...

 

I boosted my D15 @ 180,000 miles. Ran a greddy kit at 6psi until 211k miles and sold it (parted the turbo kit out). Motor is still running with the current owner and ask 250k on it.

I'd recommend replacing the head studs with ARP.

 

IMO I wouldn't boost it with that high mileage. Start rebuilding the internals then boost. Itsgonna put alot of stress on that motor the way it is now. But of course it is a D series and you can prolly get a new block for acouple hundred bucks if it went out, as uppose to replacing a B series for a couple thousand.

 

Nice

 

just do leakdown and compression tests and make sure it's running good.

If the timing belt/tensioner/water pump haven't been changed, I recommend changing those first and getting it out of the way.

and yea, +1 on the ARP head studs


dude, 130k is nothing

 

How do I preform leakdown and compression tests?

And a hundred bucks for couple bolts, jeezus, but if you all agree, than I will definitely do that.

I'm just trying to keep this whole project around $500, but I'm definitely not gonna cheap out on important parts.

 

compression test, leakdown test, ive seen ppl on turbod16 with 179 k miles on there set up and still boosting

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM%2...yphotohosting]

is this the correct Skyline Turbo?

 

What about a T3 Thunder bird turbo?

Mint condish, $150.

I'm planning on buying, so tell me now If its a bad idea.

 

And Its a Garett Air Research fyi... which I believe comes in a lot of stock turbo cars?

How are they?

Here are some pics:

 

im running 9 psi on a "budget boost" on my Y7 and it has 199,624 miles on it!!!! its been boosted for the past 2k miles and its still pullin pretty good!! so you should be good just get a good tune on it!!!! good luck!!!!

 

the reason for the ARP head studs is to prevent head lift. they are stronger and can be torqued down tighter than OEM.

also, when you remove the OEM head studs you are suppose to replace them anyway, so really you're only spending a little more for the ARPs. The ARPs are reusable, OEM are not.

 

Yeah, I understand, sounds like a good product.

Know anything about the turbo I posted?

 

not at all
well, i know the basics, not the specifics. lol

 

my engine had 208K miles on it, i torn it apart and completely rebuilt it, including machined resurfacing, ported and polished, now seems like a brand new engine but runs beautifully

 

Find someone around you that uses NepTune Tuning it is the most superior Tuning software for OBD1 Hondas there is on the market altho its not free it is 110% worth every last penny never fails!!!!

 

good luck on getting your build done for $500. your gonna need a few buck more then that. a good tune can cost you a pretty good chunk of that plus the head studs, turbo, lines, FMIC, etc. your car will be easier to tune with a p28 instead of your stock ecu also, wich will require a conversion harness. it goes on and on. that's tuning for you.

 

I'm finding this out...

The new goal is more like under $750, fug.

Does the p28 need to be "chipped" and what conversion harness will I need?

When I'm running that ecu will I pass emissions?

 

........