Couple questions about this THEFT s2000
Baught this s2000 off of an insuranse auction the other day it is a theft recovery (obviously). The main thing im concerned about is it has been sitting outside for a while with no hood or valve cover, both were stolen...and it rained....;(. im assuming this is a very bad thing, because dirt must have got in there around the cams. Does anybody know anything about this type of situation? im guessing the top end would have to be taken apart and cleaned similar to a rebuild?? hhhmmm...
Also i baught the seats the other day but i was wondering how interchangible all of those small interior pieces are with the ap1. Mine is an ap2 (04'). Any help is appreciated!
Also i baught the seats the other day but i was wondering how interchangible all of those small interior pieces are with the ap1. Mine is an ap2 (04'). Any help is appreciated!
Last edited by NashDishesDimes; Feb 23, 2009 at 11:54 PM.
Anyhow back to the topic. If the hood and valve cover are off the car and it was raining and water got inside the engine most likely you need to even take the oil pan out because you might have some water in there and if there is most likely the crank and rods will start to rust along with the,cilinder walls and cams. basically needs a rebiuld.
Last edited by White Smoke; Feb 25, 2009 at 03:59 AM. Reason: Removed quoted content from flaming member.
this is what i would do:
get a new valve cover - flush the engine out with oil, meaning remove the drain bolt and keep runing oil thrut he engine. after about 10 times, put the right amount of oil in the engine and start it... see what happens!
it'll be dumb to tear the engine apart for nothing...
get a new valve cover - flush the engine out with oil, meaning remove the drain bolt and keep runing oil thrut he engine. after about 10 times, put the right amount of oil in the engine and start it... see what happens!
it'll be dumb to tear the engine apart for nothing...
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good call joey... but do you recommend using new oil everytime he flushes it??? point being that any dirt, grime, or water that is trapped in there will start to contaminate the flushed oil and will only recirculate into the system... i would use a cheaper oil($10 for 5 quarts for the first several flushes and then use a good synthetic the last few and then finally for the one that you leave in and try to start the car... itll prolly cost you around $200 but its a lot cheaper, easier, and definitely less time consuming to try it this way... also, dont forget to change you oil filter...
one last point... if everything fires up and seems to be working correctly, i wouldnt take it past 3-4K... i would let the car warm up at idle, let the oil circulate, let the oil filter catch anything that may missed during the flushes and drive it around for a few miles... reason being is if the car dies, its close to your house and this way you can see if the car will rev and drive normally... if everything checks out, i would change your oil and filter one last time just to make sure everything(or mostly everything) is out... ohhh and get a magnetic drain plug too... good luck and be sure to post updates...
one last point... if everything fires up and seems to be working correctly, i wouldnt take it past 3-4K... i would let the car warm up at idle, let the oil circulate, let the oil filter catch anything that may missed during the flushes and drive it around for a few miles... reason being is if the car dies, its close to your house and this way you can see if the car will rev and drive normally... if everything checks out, i would change your oil and filter one last time just to make sure everything(or mostly everything) is out... ohhh and get a magnetic drain plug too... good luck and be sure to post updates...
good call joey... but do you recommend using new oil everytime he flushes it??? point being that any dirt, grime, or water that is trapped in there will start to contaminate the flushed oil and will only recirculate into the system... i would use a cheaper oil($10 for 5 quarts for the first several flushes and then use a good synthetic the last few and then finally for the one that you leave in and try to start the car... itll prolly cost you around $200 but its a lot cheaper, easier, and definitely less time consuming to try it this way... also, dont forget to change you oil filter...
one last point... if everything fires up and seems to be working correctly, i wouldnt take it past 3-4K... i would let the car warm up at idle, let the oil circulate, let the oil filter catch anything that may missed during the flushes and drive it around for a few miles... reason being is if the car dies, its close to your house and this way you can see if the car will rev and drive normally... if everything checks out, i would change your oil and filter one last time just to make sure everything(or mostly everything) is out... ohhh and get a magnetic drain plug too... good luck and be sure to post updates...
one last point... if everything fires up and seems to be working correctly, i wouldnt take it past 3-4K... i would let the car warm up at idle, let the oil circulate, let the oil filter catch anything that may missed during the flushes and drive it around for a few miles... reason being is if the car dies, its close to your house and this way you can see if the car will rev and drive normally... if everything checks out, i would change your oil and filter one last time just to make sure everything(or mostly everything) is out... ohhh and get a magnetic drain plug too... good luck and be sure to post updates...
man you said everything i wanted to lol...
I'd say i agree with cody.
xD
xD
Last edited by White Smoke; Feb 24, 2009 at 09:05 AM. Reason: Removed deleted post (quote) from flaming member.
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hmmm, i think i'd go the overly safe way and tear it down. Although it may start up fine, the number of things that could potentially come dislodged later down the line could cause catastrophic problems. Either way good luck and keep us updated.
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From: Yeah IM from Jersey, big wup, wanna fight about, it, USA
i try...
my name aint cody
id still give it a try and see how it reacts to the flush... if it doesnt work, then a rebuild would be my second try...
Would seafoaming it help at all to before doing the oil flushes to try and clean off any parts.
I know on my Audi and most of the other VW/Audi 1.8t guys we pour a half bottle of seafoam in our engine every couple oil changes right before we do the oil change to help strip down gunk and grime build up... then again the 1.8ts have sludge problem and that's the reason we do it.
Just wondering if this would help at all to do before the oil flushes.
I know on my Audi and most of the other VW/Audi 1.8t guys we pour a half bottle of seafoam in our engine every couple oil changes right before we do the oil change to help strip down gunk and grime build up... then again the 1.8ts have sludge problem and that's the reason we do it.
Just wondering if this would help at all to do before the oil flushes.
Would seafoaming it help at all to before doing the oil flushes to try and clean off any parts.
I know on my Audi and most of the other VW/Audi 1.8t guys we pour a half bottle of seafoam in our engine every couple oil changes right before we do the oil change to help strip down gunk and grime build up... then again the 1.8ts have sludge problem and that's the reason we do it.
Just wondering if this would help at all to do before the oil flushes.
I know on my Audi and most of the other VW/Audi 1.8t guys we pour a half bottle of seafoam in our engine every couple oil changes right before we do the oil change to help strip down gunk and grime build up... then again the 1.8ts have sludge problem and that's the reason we do it.
Just wondering if this would help at all to do before the oil flushes.
Seafoam works great, i say thats another good idea.
Hey thanks guys for the help, no theres no visible rust in there, the oil might just be crazy enough to work. I just dont know why the auction couldnt put even a plastic bag over the motor, it ruins everything..those people are total peices of s**T
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