Hi all, I bought a 90 civic hb 2 months ago and replaced the ALTANATOR. It ran for aprox 1 month and a week or so, now the BATT light is on. Why would the car burn ALTANATORS?

Cheers

 

is anything modified on this cars wiring? anything causing a heavy load?

 

Does the car start?

 

I didn't change anything, car is all stock. I went to Canadian Tire and bought a brand new ALT. Maybe the guy I bought it from kept changing the ALT and got sick of changing em and sold the car, I donno

PS.... There is a Panasonic cd receiver, no amps etc..

 

it starts because the batt is full charge and I get 11.5ish volts at a test vmeter. When I take off the - or the + it stalls so it's the ALT, Anyone expereince that kinda nonsence with a 90 civic be4?

 

Check all your primary electrical. Are you reading any codes back?

 

Sorry, I don't understand?

 

Have you tested it for codes? Distributor, pickup coil etc etc.

 

no, I'm not a mechanic lol I'm just wondering why after a months or so the new alt blows

 

The distriutor is brand spanking new, the guy said he paid $250 for it. I paid $300 for the car, maybe thats why he sold it that cheap! lol. I can resell the car as parts and get more that what I paid for it, but I wanna figureout why it fry's alt after a month etc.

 

Like I said.... Did you put the new alt. in there when the battery wasn't charged?

 

Yeah, the batt was dead, I had to get me van and boosted the car

 

pull up the carpet on the passenger side you should see the computer casing turn on the car and u will see a red light. if something is wrong with your car that will tell you. count how many times the light blinks write it down and look it up if it pauses for a sec that means there is more then one try that

 

I'll check it out tomorrow.
Many thanks

 

is the alt belt tight? I replaced my alternator and didn't have the belt tight enough, it was just tight enough to keep the battery at charge, but made the light come on

 

I heard that if it's too tight that it will eventually snap due to the pressure when it spins. They say ti tighten to a specific lbs of aprox 7lbs of tourq etc... I'm no mechanic but can do the main things like change a rad, axels, tire rods, ball joints etc..

 

tighten the adjusting bolt to 7lbs?

 

it can be one or several things together that can be wrong. i'll do it in one post.

battery might be on the way out(not wanting to hold charge)
the battery connection may be lose.(check ground and power)
the crankpulley to alternator belt might be lose.
the alternator connection might be lose or the plastic housing of the connection might be breaking/broke.
the alternator is on the way out.

if you've trouble shooted all of these things and it's fine but does it every now and again. then your alternator is the problem. i had the same problem and my car died in the middle of virgina. i sat for 6 hours to do a 15-20min job on the side of the road.

 

Rebuilt or new alternator? I am batting 2/4 on rebuilt alternators from Canadian Tire. One that died did so after about a day, and the other did in about a week. Try exchanging it and replacing it (it's free, so why not?) before you right off the car. Canadian Tire will take back anything.

 

7 lbs ish of pressure on the belt (not the bolt)

 

OK I just changed the ALT today with another rebuilt (no choice till it blows again and get a BOSCH $210) with a 3yr warantee. Lets see how this goes. Can I charge my BATT in the cold or I have to get it inside in the warmth??