I just got an alignment for my DC and they found out that I had a bushing cracked and shifted out of place on my rear left trailing arm which is causing a -2.2 toe as well as a -2.2 degree camber.

They quoted me a price on the installation of a new bushing (runs a bit over $100 for the part) plus free alignment afterwards at the price of $350. Sound reasonable?

I've also got -2.6 caster and -1.3 camber on my front left but that'll require switching out the entire control arm.. which they quoted me (new parts) at 450.

I'm not rushing to get the latter done but the rear bushing has to get changed asap as it's eating my tire(s).

 

Ridiculous prices. You can get brand new OEM trailing arm bushings from Honda for under $30 each. Acura does not sell them separately from the trailing arm.

The part number for the trailing arm bushings is 52385-S21-003

Buy them here: http://www.slhondaparts.com/search.a...earch+Database!

Also, a brand new front lower control arm runs about $215 from Carland Acura www.acuraautomotiveparts.org or I'm sure you can find some used ones in good shape.

 

Ok, just to be clear on this. I'm talking about the part circled in gray in this photo.



I believe energy suspension makes a version of this bushing. And that my mechanic is trying to rip me off.

BTW, how much should I expect a mechanic to charge for installation? And if I get one replaced, should I replace the other side with ES bushings as well?

 

yes, that gray circle is your trailing arm bushing. just buy the honda bushing... i have the tool to remove that bushing without having to bring down your whole trailing arm. i changed mines in about 40-45 mins each by myself.

 

How much did the tool cost? Where can i get one?

Should I just follow this thread?

https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/how-quick-easy-civic-integra-trailing-arm-bushing-replacement-also-es-poly-vs-mugen-1589298/

 

the tool cost me about 130.00 on ebay... it's the same one that was used in the thread you pasted. just follow the write up and you should be fine. if you don't want to buy the tool i could rent you mine. lmk.

 

ok but if i decide that i don't have the tools necessary to perform this task, how much of a service charge am i looking at?

 

i'm not sure... i wouldn't pay more than $50 for each side, but that's just me.

 

i have the trailing arm replacement tool for sale or rent if you want it... it makes the job fairly easy

 

This is guna sound like a stupid question but.. mugen rta bushings.. shown here for $127

http://www.kingmotorsports.com/category.aspx?cat=37

when it says 2-piece set, it means one one-piece bushing for each side of the car..? or one bushing for one side of the car that consists of two pieces.

OR i'll just stick with patrick's suggestion and get the oem ones.. for a fraction of the price. I've done some reading up and it doesn't seem like there's much of a difference between oem and mugen bushings.

 

I dont think it matters how much we think a shop should charge you - because they are going to charge you what they want.

So in that regard, it would be prudent to call around and qet quotations. Of course we feel it's a $50 dollar job because we know how to do it. Whereas a shop - they have rent to pay and money to make.

However, why not consider the Energy Suspension trailing arm bushing instead of OEM? It'll certainly last longer and hold it's position better than stock. It's quite inexpensive too. Or you can go with the PCI spherical trailing arm insert. Looks like this:

 

i also like the energy bushings. however, they take awhile to install. you have to burn or grind out the old bushing. then grind it smooth to install the new one with some kind of press. took me a few hours to do both arms. i'm also a guy who can install an engine in under 4hrs and have it running.

 

I've heard nothing but bad things about the ES bushings (not that ES makes bad bushings, they just don't know how to design rta bushings, apparently). And I've heard that PCI sphericals aren't meant for daily driving... but track use instead. I'll call around tomorrow or monday and see what the local shops say. I'm also gunna try and install my ES shifter bushings tomorrow.. hopefully it won't be too much of a pain in the *** taking off my b-pipe.

 

I've done a complete write up, however, this is a complete write up on changing from drum to rear disc brakes on a EF sedan. Just pay attention to the top portion of the write up. It'll show how to remove and install new ES bushings. I've had my bushings in place for about 4 years and they have not failed, slipped or caused any problems what so ever.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/complete-write-up-da-civic-4dr-rear-disc-brake-swap-1334534/

 

Polyurethane bushings will NOT last longer than OEM rubber bushings, and in the case of the RTA bushings, they tend to bind and do not allow the trailing arm to move throughout their full range of motion.

 

How hard is it to replace the control arms?

 

the arms are easier than the bushings to replace. no question.

doing the arms would be basic hand tools and a jack

 

Oh cool, because I found these used.. for 80 bucks..

http://passwordjdm.com/JDM-DC-Integr...-P1170C91.aspx

unless i'm looking at something completely different.

 

those are FRONT lower control arms.

aren't you after the rear?

 

Oh no, I need rear trailing arm bushings replaced (to fix rear toe) and front lower control arms (to fix caster). So I guess those are the ones I need.. but fixing my caster isn't really priority.

 

I need to replace the same bushings. Who wants to rent me there tool?

 

Ok well I just called a honda shop that came recommended and the guy told me he'd do each side for 105 if I provided the bushing.

I think, at this point, it'll be easier just to do it myself

 

I have the bushing extractor tool for sale.

I just did mine about 3 weeks and I don't expect I'll be needing the tool again for another 10 years.

 

Why can't you just use a big hammer and something large enough to cover the bushing like a large socket or something? I live in socal so I don't have to worry about rust or seized parts.

 

Some people say they're done it that way. I was almost gonna try that, but I didn't want to get stuck halfway through the job cuz I wasn't using the right tool. I don't think it would've worked anyway. As it was, I had to use my breaker bar with the extractor tool.

And I'm in SoCal too. No rust, no seized parts. But keep in mind that the bushing is the main pivot point for the rear arms and it is NOT meant to move once pressed into the arm. So it is a tight fit and must be inserted straight.