It's ~400 miles shy of being @ 3k since last oil change, and it's very low. It's wayyyy below even the first check hole. Any ideas as to why? I don't drive it hard. I've done regular routine maintenance and kept up with what's required. Thanks

 

what kind grade oil are you using?

 

There's been a bunch of threads like this lately it's kinda weird. Have you noticed any leaks or build up?

 

There are no leaks whatsoever.

Oil I last used was Mystik jt-8.

 

no im talkin about 5w-30, 10w-30, etc....

 

yea i've noticed that mine does the same, when the next time you do your oil change go to honda dealer and buy bg moa oil additive and doesn't burn as much for me!!!!

 

10w-30.

 

well you do kno that vtec does burn oil so u might be a little low but also do u have a lot of miles on your car ?? it prolly needs a vavle adjus

 

It rarely sees VTEC engagement. Merging onto the highway is about as much action as it sees anymore really. It's an 02 with 70k.

It's more than a "little low". It seems dangerously low. It was like this before the previous oil change also.

 

Do a compression test like I tell everyone else who posts about oil consumption problems... yet no one ever tells use the results......?

 

It's quite normal for mine to be at or below the lowest check hole on the dipstick, that's why I check it regularly (everyone 1,000) and add a little oil once in a while. I say oil change, then just keep an eye on it for a while.

 

youre going to have to run a little bit thicker oil to compensate..........it is most likely piston oil control rings that are wearing down.

try castrol german full synthetic 0w-30. During test, its shown to actually be 0w-40. WHy are you running 10w during the winter, isnt it snowing where youre at?

 

you're telling him to run thicker oil and then suggest synthetic? synthetics are usually thinner than conventional oils and burn off faster.

 

quick google showed he is already running synthetic..........so might as well stick to it although there is no problems when switching back and fourth

 

I switch weights for summer/winter.

did you do the compression test yet?

 

losing over a quart of oil isn't exactly normal in K series engines that doesn't see vtec all the time imo.

i've got 30k miles on my car and i don't lose any oil when i check my oil before i do my oil changes every 5k miles.

 

BG RF-7 purchased from a local auto repair station in my city. I have a 2.1 liter B20VTEC 12:1 compression all motor street setup running and tuned on 91 octane. So far, I've only put on 10,000 miles since it was rebuilt. Never smoked before. However, after 4,000-6,000 miles of street and occasional track use, I noticed that the motor started to burn oil. I'm using Valvoline 10W-30 non-synthetic motor oil. At 1,500 miles of normal driving, it would go down 1 quart. So, I decided to give BG RF-7 a try. At 7,000 miles I did an oil change using the same viscosity Valvoline oil, and added the BG RF-7. I now have 10,215 miles on the motor and guess what...the motor didn't lose a drop of oil this time!



Conclusion: If you're experiencing oil consumption issues and don't want to fork out the cash to do a rebuild, then BG RF-7 is worth giving a shot! To the original poster of this thread, you should add this stuff during your next oil change. You'll be surprised how well it really works. Good luck.

 

actually its not uncommon for k series motors to burn that much oil, i burn a lot, so does my other buddy as well as my gf's dc5 and others i know when the motor sees a lil bit higher mileage.

vtec or not it doesnt matter, vtec doesnt directly burn oil, i rarely vtec and still burn 1 quart every thousand miles... if i do choose to vtec around i still burn the same amount. compression test yielded around 220 pretty consistently if i remember correctly with only slight variances, this was with about 100k miles on the motor, currently have 115k

so pretty much IMO the verdict is piston ring seals are worn or was not properly broken in, use a higher weight such as 40 (mobil has 0w-40) or 50 and throw some engine restore in them if you are really concerned and are burning as much or more than I am. ive used Eneos 0w-50 and it held up longer than amsoil 0w-30 and eneos 5w-40 so far, currently using motul 5-w40 to see how it will fair, btw i have UOA's for each if anyone is interested

http://www.restoreusa.com/

^that stuff did help me out a bit, can also be found at walmart and is very affordable

goodluck, spending the extra $$ on oil sucks, so im going to build my motor with new rods/pistons lol

 

I agree with what others have said about K-series motors. And, to state the obvious, there are a host of variables that affect how much oil is consumed, including oil temperature, weight, brand, conventional or synthetic, and of course, the mechanical state of the engine itself.

But, all that said, among brands of motor oil Castrol stands out for its resistance to burning off. Also, I'm not a fan of oil additives, because I believe it's damn near impossible to add something worthwhile to any oil that hasn't been considered and rejected by the manufacturers themselves. Moreover, the last things you want to do is restrict the flow of oil or the rate of flow, either one of which will place the camshafts at risk. It's much cheaper to add oil than replace mechanical bits and pieces.

 

A valve adjustment wouldnt have anything to do with burning oil, unless his valve seals are worn..but then he would have smoke coming out the tail pipe.

I agree.

Thats the first thing that popped in my mind worn piston rings and/or bearings.

 

my dc5 "180k miles" mind you, eats oil too same as other dc5 owners i meet. i dont find it a problem unless i start seeing it smoking or a lost of power. The motor is definitley strong than ever thats for sure.

 

You're burning oil.

It happens. The oil control rings are likely seized to the pistons. It's not going to get any better without an expensive engine teardown. Regularly checking your oil level and adding an additional $3 quart of oil over every 3000-mile interval is much cheaper.

Whatever you do, DO NOT allow the oil level to EVER drop that low again. It's 1.5-2 quarts low, which means that only 2.5-3 quarts are left in the sump. Very bad. The lower the oil level drops, the faster it will burn off as well.

You should check your oil level religiously every time you fill up with fuel and add it as needed. Consider this part of your "routine maintenance and keeping up with what's required."

If you don't keep the oil sump full, you run the risk of boogering the timing chain tensioner due to low oil pressure, resulting in a stretched timing chain - then the car won't run because the valve timing will be off and you'll be looking at a $600+ repair bill if not more.