1999 Prelude 5sp
180k

Story is maxed out 3rd and shifted into 2nd rather than 4th.(i suck) And car would not start again.

Compression test--0 accross
Pulled motor--Walls are ok and not scored,valves looked ok but will be replacing them, Timing belt was a bit chewed up on the

sides(thinking if it skipped a tooth)

Since the motor is out I want to replace some parts that are due to be replaced soon and that are uncomfortable to do while in the

car.

Spark plugs/wires
Camshaft plug/seals
Head Gasket
Timing Belt
Valves
Valve Cover Gasket
Vtec Solenoid Gasket
Some coolant hoses for the rear(I cut them when removing engine
Crankshaft Pulley-(Chipped the side of the wheel a little)
Head Studs
High-Flow Cat
Fuel Filter
Front/Rear Main Seal
Knock Sensor
Enigne Mounts-

Now, could I just buy inserts for my factory mounts or does the whole mount have to be repaced?

Are there any other sensors I should just replace.

Should I replace the oil pump as well?

Any tips/advice will be more than welcomed

Thanks

 

i'd replace the entire mount with Innovatives.

rear main and front main as well
water pump
balance shaft eliminators if you want to do them
clutch and flywheel
if you want to put a final drive in there, now would be the time instead of having to pull the transmission again

list seems pretty solid though

 

What exactly is the benifit of removing the balance shaft?

Thanks for the water pump forgot to write that.

Maybe im dumb but I couldn't find anywhere with innovative mounts for the bb6

 

less rotating mass, less obstruction of oil flow, etc... But personally, just less crap to deal with.

 

So is that like a kit, or you can remove them?
Any write-ups on that

Dunno if its me but search is not working

 

For the motor mounts you can get energy suspension inserts. or you can fill them in with poly.

 

ESP makes motor mounts, Innovative (i have a set for me )

I would replace the oil pump. Maybe get a new maf sensor while your at it. Clean your EGR at the same time. If you do all that, you should have a minty car.

 

Advice as it was asked for; practice shifting before bed. Don't want to do this to your new motor

List looks good.

Does removing the balancer shafts/assembly reduce longevity of the motor though? It is there for a reason I would think. I know basically reduces the vibration in the motor/cabin but excessive vibration is never good as it leads to many many other problems later on. I think a long term study should be conducted on removing shaft removals to see if its worth the freed up horsepower (what ever the numbers may even be). If a long term study has been done and I didn't see it I apologize in advance.

 

well...i can't really give you a 100K mile study, most people who do it don't have those kind of miles afterwards, or the engines fail/get rebuilt for other reasons. but this is a pissing match question, some say it does effect longevity while others say it doesn't. personally, i don't care. and Kaizenspeed makes a simple kit, and Rosko makes a kit that is cheaper, but requires the machine shop to pull out the bearings and turn them to block oil flow at those certain parts.

and i wouldn't get the energy inserts, i'd get the innovatives, i'm in love with them.

and we have MAP sensors, no MAF :p but if its not bad, don't change it, they're easy enough to change on the car

 

thats what i meant.

 

i would add axle seals too, they are a pain in the *** if the transmission is in the car.

and if its a h22 (which im assuming) there are instructions about how to convert the timing belt tensioner to h23 manual tensioner they are susposed to be more reliable.

and unless your oil pump looks really clogged up, or there is excessive play in the gears then dont replace it, I've never heard/seen one h-series oil pump fail.

otherwise the list looks good so far

 

Are the innovative mounts very stiff?

Where can you get them from. I checked the site and others saw none for prelude. But saw it for h22 swaps

 

You don't clean a MAP sensor, nor do you replace one unless it has been physically broken. I've never seen one go bad, ever.

MAF and MAP sensors are completely different.

 

really? you haven't been around honda's long have you, i have 2 bad MAPs, my dad had one on the civic, friend had one on his dad's accord...they go bad

but anyways, i forgot about the axle seals and manual tensioner, both good ideas.

and how hard did you look for the innovatives?
http://www.innovativemounts.com/Prod...ductCode=20150

the red ones are definately dealable, not bad at all IMO

 

Now that's funny.

 

hehehe :D

 

Here are some of my own tips

Link 1
Link 2

 

Re-read my first post I said, clean the egr. You have never heard of a map sensor go bad... If only sensors never failed.

 

I did misread it initially; I'd thought you were recommending to clean the MAF sensor.

Our shop works on over 70 Hondas and Acuras per week. I've been working with Hondas exclusively since 2001. I've never replaced a MAP sensor on a Honda, nor have any of our other techs.

 

Ive had a map sensor go bad on a H22.

 

maybe its a PA thing? is it more humid in FL causing them to fail?

my H MAP was bad, F20 MAP was bad, D16 MAP bad, F22 MAP bad, H22A4 MAP was bad, all FL cars except the F20, but that may have crapped out during shipping so i discount that. but the H MAP threw a CEL, but the F20 MAP just ran like *** the more it warmed up. D16, F22 did the same as well, heated up and the idle would just get worse and worse until it wouldn't run at all, unplug the sensor, CEL pops on, car runs fine. change it, runs fine, no CEL

i'll have to talk to some of my dealer friends

 

Thanks for everybody's input. Im thinking of dropping the block of and having it balanced, put new bearings and check for anything else