drag chassis wiring
i'm looking to finish my own drag chassis that i'm building.
94 EG hatch. b18c1 2.0 full built turbo.
i have it all gutted, etc.
i was just wondering about how to go about removing all the stuff on the interior side fire wall and other non-necessary electronics/wiring.
i would really like to get it down to the simplest set up as possible and just have the handful of main things on power switches.
is there a thread on here that has any of that kind of information, or does anyone have that info themselves.
i lack in the electronics cause a lot of that stuff is nonsense anyways.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks.
94 EG hatch. b18c1 2.0 full built turbo.
i have it all gutted, etc.
i was just wondering about how to go about removing all the stuff on the interior side fire wall and other non-necessary electronics/wiring.
i would really like to get it down to the simplest set up as possible and just have the handful of main things on power switches.
is there a thread on here that has any of that kind of information, or does anyone have that info themselves.
i lack in the electronics cause a lot of that stuff is nonsense anyways.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks.
i remember someone saying get a 99-00 harness then get an obd2b to 1 jumper. that goes directly to the ecu. i havent tried it, nasteboyii just got done doin a harmess and i think i will tackle mine next season. try the tech forum.
alright. thanks for the input. idk why i'd have to change harnesses. i'm talkin about removing the excess stuff. and what i can eliminate to run a power switch to instead. the engine bay is going to remain the same, i just want a gutted drag setup in the cockpit with only a handful of power switches.
Get a Helm and start picking off the things you don't need. The idea for the 96-00 civic harness is that it is one piece and you can eliminate things easier. What ecu are you running? Building your own from scratch is an option too.
Last edited by Blown90hatcH; Feb 20, 2009 at 04:55 AM. Reason: Edited for brain dump
running the 99-2000 harness makes things a lot easier. thats what i had i my car when i had hondata. that way you can run the engine stuff totally separate of all of the chassis stuff.
you can do it using the obd1 harness, its just a lot more work.
you can do it using the obd1 harness, its just a lot more work.
Trending Topics
Easy. Most of the time when people just want a cheaper solution, I do the 96-98 Civic harness and cut off and add the OBD1 ecu plugs to the ends. No jumper harness needed that way too. If you run the 99-00 civic harness, there are a few wires that are in the A plug under the dash that you will need. Normally when you do a race harness, you add these anyways. Fuel pump relay, brake switch, alternator, STS and MIL are all on the A plug for 99-00 civic.
Last edited by Blown90hatcH; Feb 20, 2009 at 04:57 AM. Reason: Brain dump
As long as it is 96-98 civic, you can use it the easy way. Or if it is 99-00 civic, you will need to add somethings, but still easy.
Last edited by Blown90hatcH; Feb 20, 2009 at 04:58 AM.
i'm getting one as we speak. and hopefully i can figure out how this will be easier.
thanks for all the help.
maybe once i get it, i'll start a thread of my progress on the car, and all of your inputs/suggests would be great.
thanks again.
[one more full week of class left then spring break, hopefully i get some good stuff accomplished.]
thanks for all the help.
maybe once i get it, i'll start a thread of my progress on the car, and all of your inputs/suggests would be great.
thanks again.
[one more full week of class left then spring break, hopefully i get some good stuff accomplished.]
if your interested i make these nice relay boards. $160 is the cost. they are great.
It has 5 20 amp and 5 40 amp relays. Each relay is individually fused (not included). It will work up to 16 volts. It has LED's on the inputs and outputs to indicate if the switch and relay are on or not. Hook up is simple, besides the 10 input and 10 output wires it requires only one small ground and the large 12V supply from the battery. It includes the board, mounting hardware, and ring terminals.
The board is made from 3 0z. copper. The 40 amp circuits were designed to handle much more than 40 amps with just a 10 degree C temperature rise. The 20 amp circuits are also suitably sized.
these boards can handle the load. they have been temperature tested. i have one in my car as well as a few locals running them in street cars 2 with big nitrous setups, EMS and full accessories. no over heating or board failures. have 4 months of use on the local cars.



It has 5 20 amp and 5 40 amp relays. Each relay is individually fused (not included). It will work up to 16 volts. It has LED's on the inputs and outputs to indicate if the switch and relay are on or not. Hook up is simple, besides the 10 input and 10 output wires it requires only one small ground and the large 12V supply from the battery. It includes the board, mounting hardware, and ring terminals.
The board is made from 3 0z. copper. The 40 amp circuits were designed to handle much more than 40 amps with just a 10 degree C temperature rise. The 20 amp circuits are also suitably sized.
these boards can handle the load. they have been temperature tested. i have one in my car as well as a few locals running them in street cars 2 with big nitrous setups, EMS and full accessories. no over heating or board failures. have 4 months of use on the local cars.



i would rather use the 96-98 harness, it has the plugs you need. the 99-00 has the "A" plug and the green plug attached to the chassis. then again, id rather not use an old harness all together, in the end, its much easier just buying new wires and building your harness. + you wont be using some corroded/ half broken/ + posibly molested old harness.
Last edited by DaveF; Feb 20, 2009 at 01:35 AM.
Just pulled my engine out of my 00 EK last weekend and thought the engine harness was the greatest thing since the B16A. 
Do you have a reliable pin table to accomplish this?
On my CRX I threw my jumper harness in the garbage and went with hardwired OBD1 plugs. It really cleans things up under the dash/carpet and I like how all the shielding reaches the ECU like it did from the factory.

On my CRX I threw my jumper harness in the garbage and went with hardwired OBD1 plugs. It really cleans things up under the dash/carpet and I like how all the shielding reaches the ECU like it did from the factory.
sounds good.
and yes, i have a pin table. which is reliable.
i'll see what i can do with the harness.
i'm sure i'll cut some corners myself whereever i see possible.
so once i get one the project in a lil over a week i'll let ya know how i make out.
and yes, i have a pin table. which is reliable.
i'll see what i can do with the harness.
i'm sure i'll cut some corners myself whereever i see possible.
so once i get one the project in a lil over a week i'll let ya know how i make out.
i can make you a OBD1 harness complete, the only thing you have to do is run 5 wires power,rpm,tem,neg and fuel. you can start the motor on the floor if you want, its very easy to do. let know if you are interested.
i would rather use the 96-98 harness, it has the plugs you need. the 99-00 has the "A" plug and the green plug attached to the chassis. then again, id rather not use an old harness all together, in the end, its much easier just buying new wires and building your harness. + you wont be using some corroded/ half broken/ + posibly molested old harness.
It really depends on his goal and it being a full up race car with no additional factor gauges and such. Using the 96-98 civic engine harness is great because it has all three ecu plugs on it, but if you are changing the connectors out anyways, it doesn't matter. If you do the 99-00 civic harness, then you wire the fuel pump, alternator, etc. to a panel only. To be honest, it really doesn't matter if you are building a full race harness.
Yeah, its call the factor service manuals and a few thousand times of building this same thing.
Me too, but I was trying not to turn this into a shameless forsale thread.
what all would the harnesses that you're offering to make include? and how much?
if you're making it the simplest harness possible for a full race car, then i'm interested.
not interested if its some ridiculous price tho.
i have time on my side. as of today it's 20 degrees out, and in the mountains of PA, its not quit suitable for anything yet.
so i have time to figure stuff out on my own, but i do hate waiting around. haha.
let me know what you have to offer.
all help and simplicity is greatly appreciated.
thanks for all the help so far to everyone as well.
if you're making it the simplest harness possible for a full race car, then i'm interested.
not interested if its some ridiculous price tho.
i have time on my side. as of today it's 20 degrees out, and in the mountains of PA, its not quit suitable for anything yet.
so i have time to figure stuff out on my own, but i do hate waiting around. haha.
let me know what you have to offer.
all help and simplicity is greatly appreciated.
thanks for all the help so far to everyone as well.
got a '00 harness today.
i'll be gettin started on the project here in a couple days.
thinkin about just clipping the ecu plugs and soldering on the obd1 plugs.
i'll be gettin started on the project here in a couple days.
thinkin about just clipping the ecu plugs and soldering on the obd1 plugs.
I made a harness for the 1st time recently. It will be my last, now i know why they charge so much to make them. It takes alot of time. I have about 40 hours in mine easily.
I would get the 96-98 harness and remove the wires you dont need and be done with it.
I would get the 96-98 harness and remove the wires you dont need and be done with it.
i just got finished eliminating everything unnecessary from my engine and chassis harness as well. I chose to keep the obd1 engine harness and go through the entire chassis harness.
I do have a question though, how would I go about putting the fuel pump and ignition on its own switch?
I do have a question though, how would I go about putting the fuel pump and ignition on its own switch?



