rebuild b18c1 or swap in b20vtec?
hey guys.. im asking some advice on what i should do.. my car currently has a b18c1 in n its running really weak.. and i just want more power and i was wondering how much it would cost for it..
thanks!
thanks!
well whats it for? and weak like you need more power or somethings wrong with it? and if u get a rebuild urself or a shop is gonna do it? i would stick with the b18c1.
hhahahaha.. naw it aint the shifting cuz even when i had my boy (My_efsedan) drive it n test it out.. the ls pulled away like nothing.. vtec transition just roars but nothing happens..
Well if you want to go B20/V here is a link on how to build a reliable B20/V
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/
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you probly just need to learn to shift lol. my guy with a ls takes out my guy with the gsr like nothing cuz the gsr guy sucks at shifting..but b20 suck dicks their sleeves are *****
What work has your friend done to the LS? I would stick with the B18C1 and build it, try losing some weight too, unless if you need the back seats and spare tire take them out and make a nice delete kit (makes the gutted cab look better)
trust me.. its not the shifting.. as for the ls, its as stock as f()()k, n its a db8.. n i only have the backseat in.. i lost alot of weight before n it still did no good..
what might you suggest as in internals?
what might you suggest as in internals?
first, what mods do you have on your car? tell me and i'll try to help. gotta let us know first so we can help.
also, your vtec is not suppose to roar. vtec change over should transition into the power band. yes, should be able to hear it, but not like what you said. rite now my vtec roars but only becaue i have a chipped ecu with vtec kicking in too low. and when my vtec hits it goes no where but after 6000rpm its where it pulls really hard.
also, your vtec is not suppose to roar. vtec change over should transition into the power band. yes, should be able to hear it, but not like what you said. rite now my vtec roars but only becaue i have a chipped ecu with vtec kicking in too low. and when my vtec hits it goes no where but after 6000rpm its where it pulls really hard.
Last edited by hmoobhero; Feb 19, 2009 at 12:29 PM.
Seriously... there really isn't much competition between a stock c1 and a stock b1. You SHOULD be making nearly 30 more hp, and your redline is 1100 rpm higher (longer you stay in gear, less momentum lost in shifting).
If he's beating up on you that bad, then there has to be something wrong with your block. Either that or fault is in the driver.
Sorry. Not trying to bust your ***** but the #'s don't lie. I don't think a b20 is worth it, build your c1 (or at least find out what's wrong with it).
If he's beating up on you that bad, then there has to be something wrong with your block. Either that or fault is in the driver.
Sorry. Not trying to bust your ***** but the #'s don't lie. I don't think a b20 is worth it, build your c1 (or at least find out what's wrong with it).
first, what mods do you have on your car? tell me and i'll try to help. gotta let us know first so we can help.
also, your vtec is not suppose to roar. vtec change over should transition into the power band. yes, should be able to hear it, but not like what you said. rite now my vtec roars but only becaue i have a chipped ecu with vtec kicking in too low. and when my vtec hits it goes no where but after 6000rpm its where it pulls really hard.
also, your vtec is not suppose to roar. vtec change over should transition into the power band. yes, should be able to hear it, but not like what you said. rite now my vtec roars but only becaue i have a chipped ecu with vtec kicking in too low. and when my vtec hits it goes no where but after 6000rpm its where it pulls really hard.
yes like they say their isn't much difference between a ls and gsr really just higher rpm and 30 more horses. i say turbo lol if you have the money for it! peakboost makes good turbokits for b-series. i seen people running them on b16s in hatches running 12's stock
so being able to rev up higher and having 30+ hp isnt much difference??? you must be joking rite??? so then theres no difference between a ls and itr then rite...? just 40+hp and can rev up higher...lol. put it this way...which one would you take if both were offered free to you??? man your post would be a perfect quote for my sig...
I would invest the time and money in finding out whats going on with the c1. How many miles are on the motor? Focus on timing. Have you changed fuel pressure at all? When was the last tune up?
oh.. its a 94 gsr..all i got on it now is AEM CAI.. thats bout it.. i got timing checked out n they said it was off by a couple.. everything is stock.. last tune up, ii replace radiator, spark plugs n wires, gtx high mileage n filter.. i currently have 130k on it.. rear mount was torn.. had it replaced.. n found out that the right tranny mount is bolted on with 1bolt cuz one of the holes is shaved n the bolt juss falls out if i put one in.. so im driving with a shakyass motor.. no time to fix since im still in school n working atm.. i really wanna build it.. just no time
To the OP. If you're driving right then your block is messed up. Sounds like it's been beat to hell. Get a compression test.
Last edited by GSR Apollo; Feb 20, 2009 at 01:11 PM.
if your timing is off even by a few degree's it can/will run like sh^t. i'm willing to bet that changing you timing belt will improve your issue. then you'll have a good starting point for further diagnostics. GL


