Hi,

My brother is going turbo soon and from what I was told from my tuner the set-up I have planned will be good for 250whp on a z6. For his brakes, I'm not exactly sure what to do as a big brake kit is out of the question. So I need a few a suggestions or are mine good?
Can I use b-series brakes on d-series axles? Say Si brakes? If I can use Si brakes can i use b-series calipers? I'm just trying to squeeze the most braking capacity as possible without braking the bank. Thanks

 

first searching gets you awnsers alot faster.
second you should tell us more on what kind of car you are even talking about if you refuse to use the search feature.

 

91 std.

 

if your only shooting for 250hp, keep your stock ones for now, they'll work.

 

Well i have the the 93 DA front brakes on my CR-X and GSR Rear brakes, Also have SS Braided Brake Lines and the DA Power booster and Master, 40/40 Prop Valve. I have done this same setup up on a couple diffrent ef hatch and 3 CR-X'S. And they seem to be Enough stopping power. The hatch had a turbo LS street tuned 10lbs and it stopped on a dime. One CR-X has a B17a1 in and there is no nose diving at all My CR-X has only been driven for bout 2months on the brake setup other wise its been a working i progress. And the 3 CR-X is a turbo'ed D16z6 Pushing 10-15lbs again stops great something to think about you could also track down ef civic ex knunckles which i think are the same as the DA integra's. There are a couple diffrent setup's out there

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/ex-knuckles-11%22-big-brake-conversion-2103161/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/diy-11-1%22-brakes-dx-knuckles-long-last-2211517/

that's two i had booked marked look in the FAQ section and you could also google it.
I think with everything i spent like 300 hundred total with everything including ball joints and bearings and trailing arms complete but everything was replaced with new or reman parts.

 

I never understood the mentality that, more horsepower means you need bigger/better brakes, especially for a street car.

Your braking distances don't change cause you got more power. If you add more WEIGHT sure... but just power?

Buy better tires. get better pads. done.

for the record, my 130whp CRX stopped just as well as my 220whp CRX did, same brakes, same tires.

 

try making back to back passes at the track, brake fade will result, you will not stop

 

it's not a matter of more power it's a matter of driving faster with the more power

 

Gunmetalrex, thanks I'll make sure to look into that.
Driven, what crxdonwon said is the reason I'm looking into bigger brakes. More than likely, the faster you go the faster you will have to be able to stop. Where I live there are a lot of curves, to go anywhere pretty much. I think it's logic that for the majority of us, if you're car is fast and can handle you're going to take advantage of that. So I also want it to be able to stop what I'm throwing at it.

Thanks for your input fellas, much appreciated.

 

you mean at a drag strip?

yeah, that's what pads are for.

I've done a few track events and a few drag races in my time. I've also experimented with fastbrake kits, gsr brakes, etc.

the brakes off of a SI are capable of stopping a CRX/Civic hatch from 120mph with a good set of pads and tires repeatedly.


I've done a solid 50+ track days in a CRX.
All of them with rear drums.
About 5 of them with 11" fastbrake kit with wilwood calipers
the rest with CRX brakes with pads/tires...

trust me, all you need are better pads and stickier tires. you don't NEED bigger brakes because you only got 250whp.

 

Good pads, Good Tires, and Excellent fluids are key here. I can not emphasize enough how important WELL bled brakes are either.

 

Well for money saving purposes, DA brake booster, master cylinder, prop valve, new lines, brake bleed, ebc rotors and hawk pads? sounds good?

 

Booster will just change the feel...stock booster (even the HF) is more than ok. if you're really trying to spend money:

- 15/16 MC from Prelude/4dr Civic Ex (like a $100)
- new rubber lines if you don't check your brakes a lot or stainless lines if you do ($50-$100)
- autozone front rotors ($30/fronts). if you have rear discs... just turn them ($10/ea rotor)
- hawk HP+ pads (<$100). They squeal...
- better/stickier tires ($400-$650). This will be the biggest improvement of everything you'll do.

I'm not saying this to be a jerk... I'm saying this to save you money and still have perfectly capable brakes. I've raced a CRX for many years and never had brake problems (except with the wilwood calipers). The biggest improvement for reducing braking distances was tires... the biggest improvement in reducing fade was pads. Everything else was just to help modulate or improve FEEL of the brakes. the FEEL doesn't increase/decrease braking distances or fade.

 

what exactly do you mean by feel?