I saw this mod on another thread but I wanna know does it really work or is it not worth it...

This is a minor mod that helps keep the air going through your throttle-body cooler. There is a Throttle-Body Heater that is attached to the left side of your throttle-body.(blue arrow) This heater keeps your throttle from freezing in the wide open position by circulating hot fluids through it, thus heating it up and transferring the heat to your throttle-body. But this is only a concern in the colder regions. This mod is a very simple modification that can be reversed or put back to normal at any time.



For this mod you will need:


Pliers and a section of 1/16" pipe/tubing about two inches long.





1. You will need to remove your stock airbox if you still have it. If you have a CAI or SRI, you should be able to complete this mod without removing the intake.



2. You need to locate the inlet and outlet hoses that connect to the Throttle-Body Heater.(red arrows)



3. After you locate the hoses, use your pliers to loosen the clips/clamps and slide them back away from the TB heater.



4. Next you can remove the hoses from the throttle body heater. A little bit of greenish fluid (antifreeze) may leak out as you are removing them, but this is not a big deal. I had to use a screwdriver to gently pry mine away from the heater. Over time they will be heated up enough to form a pretty good seal. If you use a screwdriver, use a very small one and be careful not to fo(k up the hoses.



5. Once you have the two hoses removed, you will need the piece of pipe or tubing. You can purchase a piece of small pipe at your local Discount Auto Parts or Autozone it will need to be at least 2 inches long. I'm not sure the exact diameter that you need, but I know it's less than 1/8". After you find piece that will fit into the hose, you will then slip half of the pipe into one hose, and the other half into the other hose. Essentially, you are trying to connect the inlet and outlet so that they will continue to circulate the fluids.



6. Now that you have the two hoses connected by the pipe, you can slip the clips/clamps back up to the end of each hose.



After you finish the 6 steps above, just make sure that the two hoses that are connected can rest without having any kinks in them. When I was finished, I found another piece of hose about 4 or 5 inches long that I could slip over the inlet and outlet on the Throttle-Body Heater...just to keep things from crawling in there or whatever. You know, I'm **** like that.



Well, I guess that's it. Overall, this is a very easy mod. It only took me about 10 minutes to complete.

 

The only thing you'll get is longer engine warm-up times and degraded engine life due to the increased time it takes for the engine to get to proper temperature. It's definitely not worth the 2-3 whp gain you may get after the engine is warm.

 

Disagree completely. Sorry matt, but the fraction of a second that incoming air is in the throttle is not going to cause a major change in air temp, especially when compared to the temperature of combustion in the cylinders, which combined with the oil film friction, is really the major heat source in warming up
My understanding of that thing is for the purpose the above post say.... it keeps the throttle from freezing open/shut/stuck in place.
There's simply not enough contact time for it to make a difference in the temperature of the incoming air, ESPECIALLY when you consider the fact that the coolant is likely warmer than the air once you start the car, the cooler air passing the throttle would actually cool the coolant down when its cold outside, and you have to consider the small amount of fluid running through that line.
Whether it does anything at all.... for the same reason as I dont think it delays engine warm up, i dont see it doing anything power wise. Its not enough time passing through the coolant ring in the throttle for any major effect to occur. The major temperature effect is going to be the temperature of the air entering the system.

 

Although I do not disagree that the temperature delta will not be great, I still stand by my reasoning that it will degrade engine life in certain environments (namely the one I live in with very cold winters). It may not be by a great amount, but I still think it would be noticeable. Either way, we can agree that there won't be any performance gain from this modification, so the question is answered regardless.

 

I have no idea what f*cking idiot thinks that is a "throttle body heater," but it isn't. The hoses shown in the picture are connected to the rotary air control valve, which functions on coolant temperature.

 

ok guys thanks for all your help

 

its going to cause idle problems.

take it from someone wiht experience

 

really.....oh then forget about it, i don't want my car to star fi(kin up

 

this has nothing to do with the throttle body, the IACV needs it to keep the car idling...well. don't change it around unless you have to.

 

I've had mine re routed for years in very cold temperatures. No engine problems, No idle problem and No problems of anykind. And I can speak from personal experiance too. Maybe Daddys car idles funny from beting on it and running the juice, ever think of that one?

 

ever think of the fact that i'm not an idiot and when i put mine back to stock the idle problems went away?

 

What did you gain from doing this?

 

Look here *******, whether you've had problems or not doesn't change the fact that screwing with the EACV's coolant supply can cause idle problems.

Only an idiot who is mechanically clueless would even bother to do this procedure. Whoever initially wrote it up was obviously ignorant to the fact that the EACV has absolutely nothing to do with "heating the throttle body" nor does it make any effect on intake air temps.

Apparently you were too much of a sucker to figure this out for yourself either, which is why you did it.

Didn't mommy ever tell you not to believe everything you read on the internet?

 

Although you're kind of harsh, you seem to be the only one who's intimately familiar with the system. Why is this valve "powered" by coolant? The water pump isn't the most efficient manner to provide mechanical power, wouldn't it have made more sense to just run it off a vacuum? Or purely electrical?

 

It's not mechanically powered by coolant flow/pressure, but the electronic portion of the valve takes readings of coolant temperature to determine how to adjust the idle. The valve itself is just an electrically operated solenoid.

This is why low coolant level or a bubble stuck in the cooling system will cause the idle to surge up and down.

 

Targa... Where or how do you get this info, I thunk the would settle it if people saw documented information... Anger and insults will make people doubt and lose respect...

 

i plugged the spot for that on my k20a2 tb many moons ago, never made a difference.

 

An EACV (a.k.a. IACV) is a standard component of modern electronic fuel injection systems . . .

 

Common knowledge to someone who works on cars not to a bunch of people playing mechanic on the internet.

 

I realize this is common knowledge to people who work on cars quite often, I wasn't asking for myself, I was simply stating that giving a little background to a situation is often more benificial and calling names and such, also this is an public internet forum, not a Honda certified mechanic exclusive members only club, of course there are going to be newbs and internet mechanics

Everyone has to start somewhere, right?

 

You don't start by creating write-ups about something that you understand nothing about, instructing the rest of the clueless public how to perform a procedure that can cause a number of problems affecting the driveability of the car and has no benefits whatsoever.

The saddest part is that the original poster copied the post from another forum, so I don't have the benefit of directly telling the author that he/she is an idiot.

You don't have to be a "Honda certified mechanic" to know what an IAC valve is, considering that just about every fuel injected engine has one. If you don't know what it is or what it does then you probably shouldn't be dickering around with it in the first place, especially based on the advice of some unknown tool on the internet. If you're a newbie, then buy a Helm repair manual and read it - you'll learn how your vehicle's systems work and how to repair them straight from the people who deigned and assembled them. And you won't find anything in there about a "throttle body heater."

 

Agreed... And I know its hard sometimes but telling someone they are wrong with a smile (the first time atleast) isn't always such a bad idea

 

I use both patience and beration selectively - depending on what is called for, the attitude displayed by the poster, and the seriousness of potential consequences.

 

Dont mind me, I've been out of work on disability going on 7 months and I'm going insane. I've paid my bills my entire life working on cars and I haven't picked up a wrench in 7 months.

 

Integra GS-R; N/A but heavily modded.
**this mod is NOT recommended for cold climate areas**

I have my Edelbrock 65mm throttle body coolant passages and IACV coolant passages completely bypassed. Skunk2 Intake Manifold. I live in Middle Georgia so I dont have to worry about cold weather. If done correctly this procedure is proven to reduce the heat transfer from the TB and IACV to the intake charge. It is proven HP and TQ gain. How much power gained? I wouldn't call it noticeable but in an N/A application everything counts. I have no dyno graphs to show exactly how much gain but it's simple science that proves it to be effective. I've HEARD that LS1 motors gain somewhere from 4-8 HP but I wouldn't be able to relate that to our little 4 bangers..that is the only hear-say sentence I'll make.

My car runs like a top and only idles strangely during the early winter mornings. Even then it's not for long...and completely bareable. Occasionally my throttle plate will stick in the winter time but it's just a matter of dialing in the pulley screw to get the right effect...once you find the right medium this procedure is certainly worth it. Coupled with the HONDATA intake manifold gasket you can seriously reduce the temperature of the intake charge (proven) and that is scientifically linked to an increase in power. For all you bypass bashers out there; don't knock it until you've tried it.


My bypass is very similar to the one at this link. I welded the little nipple on the intake manifold (the one that receives the hose from the "steel pipe") shut.

Your IACV STILL controls your idle characteristics with this modification. And very well i might add. If you don't believe me, crank up your car and unplug the sensor. Still don't believe me? Follow the wiring diagram or troubleshooting methods in your Helms Manual which show exactly how your IACV works in relation to inputs such as temperature, air-flow, and current. This is one of the few old school 'racer' tricks still alive and valid...that and everyone knows a 3 foot wing on your trunk gives you mad downforce FTW.


http://www.lyonel.orconhosting.net.nz/tb_bypass.htm