Couple questions for you accord people =P
Hey people of the accord forum. I'm actually an EG owner but I plan on an experimental F2B build using a single cam F22 motor. I have found a few motors for sale locally. One especially has caught my eye. Its out of a 96 accord and its an f22b Sohc Vtec. The guy is asking $120 for it! The only issue with it is it has a blown head gasket. He claims he ripped it out as soon as he found that out from his local mechanic. The motor is also out of an automatic accord.
My few questions for you guys is:
-Is this motor worth it for $120? [sound pretty good to me]
-What ECU do I need for a manual transmission ECU? [most likely temporary as I will probably get a chipped P28]
-Since the head gasket is blown, what other damages could have occurred as a result of it? If the head warped or anything, how much should I expect to pay for a new head?
This motor will pretty much go straight to my garage and on a stand for some tear down and rebuild love.
Your opinions and help is greatly appreciated!
-Matt
My few questions for you guys is:
-Is this motor worth it for $120? [sound pretty good to me]
-What ECU do I need for a manual transmission ECU? [most likely temporary as I will probably get a chipped P28]
-Since the head gasket is blown, what other damages could have occurred as a result of it? If the head warped or anything, how much should I expect to pay for a new head?
This motor will pretty much go straight to my garage and on a stand for some tear down and rebuild love.
Your opinions and help is greatly appreciated!
-Matt
Sounds like a good deal to me! The F22's are a great powerplant- I just got done with my forged engine build on my F22A1 :D . The F22A's have one of the best flowing heads in their stock form, I'm not sure if the F22B's do as well though. None the less their are quite a few aftermarket options for both engine internals and externals.
As far as any other damages that may have occured as a result of the headgasket- there probably wouldn't be any, however, I suppose if coolant found its way into the cylinders and the engine sat for a while then some engine components (rings, piston pins, rods, crank) may have rusted a bit, but if you have a full rebuild in mind then I wouldn't worry. I wouldn't suspect the head would be warped- but for $120 I think you found yourself a deal. Good luck, have fun!
As far as any other damages that may have occured as a result of the headgasket- there probably wouldn't be any, however, I suppose if coolant found its way into the cylinders and the engine sat for a while then some engine components (rings, piston pins, rods, crank) may have rusted a bit, but if you have a full rebuild in mind then I wouldn't worry. I wouldn't suspect the head would be warped- but for $120 I think you found yourself a deal. Good luck, have fun!
Hey people of the accord forum. I'm actually an EG owner but I plan on an experimental F2B build using a single cam F22 motor. I have found a few motors for sale locally. One especially has caught my eye. Its out of a 96 accord and its an f22b Sohc Vtec. The guy is asking $120 for it! The only issue with it is it has a blown head gasket. He claims he ripped it out as soon as he found that out from his local mechanic. The motor is also out of an automatic accord.
My few questions for you guys is:
-Is this motor worth it for $120? [sound pretty good to me]
-What ECU do I need for a manual transmission ECU? [most likely temporary as I will probably get a chipped P28]
-Since the head gasket is blown, what other damages could have occurred as a result of it? If the head warped or anything, how much should I expect to pay for a new head?
This motor will pretty much go straight to my garage and on a stand for some tear down and rebuild love.
Your opinions and help is greatly appreciated!
-Matt
My few questions for you guys is:
-Is this motor worth it for $120? [sound pretty good to me]
-What ECU do I need for a manual transmission ECU? [most likely temporary as I will probably get a chipped P28]
-Since the head gasket is blown, what other damages could have occurred as a result of it? If the head warped or anything, how much should I expect to pay for a new head?
This motor will pretty much go straight to my garage and on a stand for some tear down and rebuild love.
Your opinions and help is greatly appreciated!
-Matt
The only issue you may run into involves components you're (hopefully) going to replace during your rebuild; the crank bearings. Coolant makes for a lousy lubricant, and if the engine ran for any length of time with antifreeze in the oil you could be looking at scored crank journals and :p bearings.
... probably $100 USD for a known good head
"Prices may vary due to location and availability, check with your local salvage yard for details" *
P
*Normal Disclaimer
Hey thanks a lot guys! I'll most likely pick up that motor then. I did plan on doing a FULL rebuild. So new seals, gaskets, pistons, bearings the whole shabang. Thanks for your input. I may look into an f22A head. Since you say its has good flowing-ness. x]
Anyone have suggestions on pistons to run for some higher compression? Should I consider sleeving my block? Whats the reputation on the sleeves for these guys?
Anyone have suggestions on pistons to run for some higher compression? Should I consider sleeving my block? Whats the reputation on the sleeves for these guys?
Hey thanks a lot guys! I'll most likely pick up that motor then. I did plan on doing a FULL rebuild. So new seals, gaskets, pistons, bearings the whole shabang. Thanks for your input. I may look into an f22A head. Since you say its has good flowing-ness. x]
Anyone have suggestions on pistons to run for some higher compression? Should I consider sleeving my block? Whats the reputation on the sleeves for these guys?
Anyone have suggestions on pistons to run for some higher compression? Should I consider sleeving my block? Whats the reputation on the sleeves for these guys?
They are an Aluminum Alloy Block/Head, Steel Sleeve, Aluminum piston assembly. The crankshafts come forged from Honda.
Compression..... a long battled subject.
If you've got availability for Sunoco Blue (or have a friend that owns an airport) (100 octain) you can run 13:1
For the more mundane among us that can only rustle up 92 Premium, much more than 10.5:1 would get you into the detonation range.
P
Sounds like a decent deal, 120 is not bad for a decent f22b1... you might be able to get a couple bucks cheaper citing the possible other issues that could surround a blown headgasket, especially if the motor got hot/ overheated. Also if it has higher mileage, you could maybe coax a couple bucks out of em cheaper. Really though 120 is not bad.
As for ecu, chipped p28 is definately a good route... obviously with a tune for the f22b1.
On the damages possible, well if the motor was overheated you could have some other issues like head warpage and should deck the head when putting on a new oem headgasket anyways. As said above if the motor is full of milkshake (coolant oil whipped together that will look like a chocolate shake), your going to need to go through the motor for a rebuild, new bearings, clean up the bearing areas on the crank, etc... which if you doing a rebuild you are basically already going to address then.
Sleeves are not steel as indicated by padams, they are iron... which he is correct is unique to the f series vs the h that uses frm sleeves. In any case they are a strong sleeve that you do not need to replace unless your planning big boost or are planning a larger overbore of the cyl.
Compression could depend on what you want to do with it, pump gas street cruiser, daily driver, race gas weekend warrior, etc? I personally would never recommend you run an fuel you get from an airport as I see it mentioned above, AVgas is not ideal for many reasons imo. Sunoco, VP, Torco, etc race fuels are a good choice depending on their availability to you, but usually are a bit more costly than pump of course. Depending on your area and the availability of it, e85 is an excellent fuel alternative for high compression but requires approximately 30% more fuel and appropriate tuning.
As for ecu, chipped p28 is definately a good route... obviously with a tune for the f22b1.
On the damages possible, well if the motor was overheated you could have some other issues like head warpage and should deck the head when putting on a new oem headgasket anyways. As said above if the motor is full of milkshake (coolant oil whipped together that will look like a chocolate shake), your going to need to go through the motor for a rebuild, new bearings, clean up the bearing areas on the crank, etc... which if you doing a rebuild you are basically already going to address then.
Sleeves are not steel as indicated by padams, they are iron... which he is correct is unique to the f series vs the h that uses frm sleeves. In any case they are a strong sleeve that you do not need to replace unless your planning big boost or are planning a larger overbore of the cyl.
Compression could depend on what you want to do with it, pump gas street cruiser, daily driver, race gas weekend warrior, etc? I personally would never recommend you run an fuel you get from an airport as I see it mentioned above, AVgas is not ideal for many reasons imo. Sunoco, VP, Torco, etc race fuels are a good choice depending on their availability to you, but usually are a bit more costly than pump of course. Depending on your area and the availability of it, e85 is an excellent fuel alternative for high compression but requires approximately 30% more fuel and appropriate tuning.
Last edited by twkdCD595; Feb 17, 2009 at 08:57 AM.
oh as a sidenote, be aware the 96 f22b1 is going to be obd2... so you probably will need to source a couple parts from an obd1 f22b1 to make it run on that p28.
just one example for instance the obd2 f's use a crank position sensor instead of the cam position sensor in the dizzy like obd1 f's use. if you search here you can find a few topics that cover these differences.
just one example for instance the obd2 f's use a crank position sensor instead of the cam position sensor in the dizzy like obd1 f's use. if you search here you can find a few topics that cover these differences.
Last edited by twkdCD595; Feb 17, 2009 at 09:05 AM.
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Wow great info guys. I actually plan on making this my daily driver. You're right about asking the guy about the problems though, twkdCD595. I could probably get it even cheaper. So I'll go ahead and stick with the stock sleeving, give it some new bearing and such. Anyone have suggestions on pistons for high compression? I've heard of someone using k20 pistons [hybrid forum for F2D], but he is using an f23 block. If someone has a suggestion I'm open to it! You guys are the experts =]
These engines (with the exception of some H22 varients) are sleeved.
They are an Aluminum Alloy Block/Head, Steel Sleeve, Aluminum piston assembly. The crankshafts come forged from Honda.
Compression..... a long battled subject.
If you've got availability for Sunoco Blue (or have a friend that owns an airport) (100 octain) you can run 13:1
For the more mundane among us that can only rustle up 92 Premium, much more than 10.5:1 would get you into the detonation range.
P
They are an Aluminum Alloy Block/Head, Steel Sleeve, Aluminum piston assembly. The crankshafts come forged from Honda.
Compression..... a long battled subject.
If you've got availability for Sunoco Blue (or have a friend that owns an airport) (100 octain) you can run 13:1
For the more mundane among us that can only rustle up 92 Premium, much more than 10.5:1 would get you into the detonation range.
P
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