Here it goes, I just finished finished installing the whole DA brakes on my soon to be KRX. As many know that the e-brake cable from the DA is a few inches longer, but should work. my question is, since i dont have a MC/booster installed, will the e-brake be able to hold the car from moving? i been going crazy since it's my first time ever doing this and the car doesn't hold. any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

The Ebrake is mechanical, with no connection to the hydro lines, so yes the ebrake should hold the car

 

just as i thought. so what can i be doing wrong? everything is on there, new rotors, brake pads. and the cable seems to work, but the brakes dont hold.

 

You used DA ebrake cables on a CRX?

I am 99% sure you need to use 90-91 CRX Si ebrake cables. This might be your problem.

 

If the cables are too long, which i thought the DA ones were, then there wont be enough tension to hold the car in place.

 

from what i know, you can use DA cables on a CRX. but my biggest problem is that it squeezes more on the Right side than the Left side.

 

i thought that if you take the left cable and hook it up to the right side of the ebrake tensioner and the right side and hook it up the the left side, like criss cross it under the car you may get that to lessen the slack and get it to work, otherwise you will need the crx cables, also did you play with the adjustment?

 

They should squeeze the same because of the equalizer

 

If I tighten the adjustment to much, when i release the e-brake it still rubs the rotor. but if I release some of the pressure then the brakes dont fully grab.

 

I havent tried this method, but if i criss cross it then im not gonna be able to use the e-brake bracket.

 

criss cross them underneath the car

 

criss cross them to lose the slack? I was able to hide the slack... thanx for all the help

 

could it be the piston by any chance?

 

There is no piston, it's a mechanical arm that closes the pads around the rotor when you pull the e-brake up.

 

One cable longer then the other?

 

Ok, when I adjust the handle to where it would grab, the right side grabs, but the rotor still spins just a little while the left side spins with ease. And equalizer is even. Another problem is that when I release the e-brake, if you spin the rotor, it still rubs the right brake pad. Any help is appreciated thank.

 

I don't think it should be any longer since they're both from a DA. I should try criss crossing them under the car as 93formula suggested to see if realeasing it from the tight bends and check if it grabs better.

 

so there's no solution to my problem?

 

Buy a CRX cable.

 

[QUOTE=4drEF;37432358]Buy a CRX cable

Must be the best solution then huh?

 

Could different thickness pads throw this off? I.E., left pads with 200k miles and almost no pad remaining vs right pad that is new with less than 1k miles...?

No idea, but just throwing it out there.

 

Also, you mentioned the cables are both from a DA, are they both from the SAME DA? If they're from different cars, the different amounts of wear and tear could cause the differences in length.

Oh, and you said the equilizer is even, have you tried making it uneven to compensate?

 

pads are brand new. on brembo slotted rotors.

yes both cables are from the same DA. and i havent tried making it uneven, but im just gonna go the easy way and buy the CRX Si ebrake cables.

 

The problem likely isn't the cables.

The e-brake mechanism itself doesn't use any fluid pressure to work, but you have to build fluid pressure in the system at least once after installation to set the piston in its correct position before the e-brake will work properly. The 7CLP13S caliper's e-brake mechanism moves the piston itself, but can only move it a fraction of an inch. Thus, if the piston is retracted too far into the caliper (as it would be after twisting it back in for caliper/pad installation), the e-brake mechanism will be ineffective because the piston doesn't move far enough to take up the slack.

What is the first thing you do when getting into the car after you've changed pads? That's right, you start it up to build vacuum boost and then pump the pedal several times before you even move the car. The pedal starts at the floor initially but raises up as you build line pressure and the caliper pistons extend out to take a set against the pads. At this point, the e-brake will work.

 

targa250r gets a golf clap for that. I would still think bleeding would help to even them out also.