Hello guys,
It's about time to change the brake fluid on my 1990 Accord LX automatic. I want a proper way to do it. When I last own another accord some time ago, bleeding the brakes cause my master cylinder to fail. So eversince then I am scare to do it. I was told that my master cylinder failed b/c I introduced air into it. Another person told me b/c some time getting new fluid to mix with old can cause the failure. Are these assumptions correct?
Should I use Honda fluid or another brand is ok.
I found this link but I don't think this is the correct way to do it is it? http://www.articlesbase.com/automoti...id-597129.html
Thanks.

 

Well, let's start by dispelling the urban myth that bleeding the brakes ruined the Master Cylinder. It was on the way out already. (They don't work better with contaminated fluid).

There are two methods of properly changing out the fluid in either the Brake or Clutch systems (same bad issues apply).
Both share the same order by which each wheel cylinder / caliper is bled.
You always start with the furthest component and end with the closest.
It would be:
Right Rear
Left Rear
Right front
Left Front

You would pump / refill the system one of two ways:
Three Person method:
One manning the Brake Pedal
One manning the cylinder to be bled
and One observing Fluid levels in the Master Cylinder

or the much simpler
Single person method:
Power Flush Machine (w/reservoir)
One person bleeding the cylinders

In both proceedures, the cylinders are bled until clear fluid is witnesed at the bleeder.

P

 

Some one suggested that if I am not comfortable with bleeding the brakes, perhap I just suck as much old fluid out of the reservoir under the hood as possible and just fill it up with new fluids. Do this twice or 3X after driving the car would be like having new fluid in the system as you could never remove all of the old fluid from the system completely. Do you guys think this is a good idea?

About a one man method, would this item help me with the job?
http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man...kit-37201.html
Should I use DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid? What are the differences?

Thanks.

 

I would not recommend it. It still doesn't address the fluid in the rest of the system, and you would shortly start suffering Brake Cylinder failures elsewhere.
The problem lays with the Brake Fluid. All but DOT5 are Alcohol based and absorb moisture (water) over time. When this reaches a certain concentration; it starts attacking the steel components of the Brake System. This can include Caliper Pistons and Rear Wheel Cylinders.

You've got to get rid of that %$^#

As to the bleeder kit.... It might work.

P

 

How much brake fluid do I need and does brand matters?
Thanks.

 

DOT 3 or DOT4
Usually comes in Pint Cans
Two (2) should get you thru.

 

Thanks so much for helping me out P Adams. You are the best poor man's mechanic.
You mentioned the clutch system, my car is a 4 speed automatic, do I need to bleed the clutch as well if there's any?
What size is the bleeder screw so I can get the wrench ready?
Thanks.

 

It's brake fluid change time again. I did my brake fluid exchange about a year ago and it's color is dark again. I am more experience sorta having replace the rear shoes and front pads. The brakes works fine for both my 99 Corolla and 90 Accord. But it seems the fluid turn dark so quickly after flushing. I pump until clear fluid gets out and tighten the bleeder. Should I change them again of wait a little longer?
Last time I did the 2 persons method and I got my back yard mechanic neighbor to help. This time I am by myself. I am thinking of the method that I see from youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfTmlOZbXgs
or
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvyztDFHhaY
or
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...-bleeding.html
What do you guys think?
I got a 32 oz bottle of prestone DOT 3 synthetic fluid. The last brand I used a year ago was a Walmart blue bottle, but synthetic fluid as well.

Thanks.

 

I always just do the 1 man style its pretty easy but I use a windshild washer bottle that you get it from at walmart and just fill it a little and start pumping away. It usally last for all 4 wheels and clutch bleed.

 

This would apply to an older car:
I was told that a master cylinder can be ruined by pushing the pedal all the way down during bleeding. It makes some sense. During normal use, the pedal never gets pushed down all the way. By pushing the pedal all the way down the seals are scraping on dirt and junk that they never had before. So now when I service brakes I do short little brake taps to pump out the fluid.

 

Ideally, normal pedal travels no more than 3/4 down height. I think pushing it slow about 1/2 down height is good. But this method seems good for a single person. I have never done it but I wonder how much fluid is suck back in after the pedal is let go?

 

How long does it take you to flush all 4 with this method?
Thanks.

 

I just try to pump it normally like I would be using the brakes. It doesn't take too long.

 

Would you say one hour top?
Thanks.