Hi,

I'm newbie and any help would be most welcome and THANK YOU all!

This is my ride (look & all still in progress)...

...and this is my new suspension.


Now I would like to buy a set od GC's from Weaksauce but before I do that I have some issues;

1.) Is a Camber kit 'must have' or I need it only when I drop my car under a certain level on those Koni shocks?

2.) Are any rubber bump stops also 'must have'?

3.) Any idea what spring rate I get when I buy set of GC's at Weaksauce?

THANK YOU very much and greetings from sunny but cold Slovenia/Europe!

 

1. Camber kits are not must have...a proper alignment is all you really need. Unless you're going with a ricer drop where you'll rub due to bad height/spring rate decisions.

2. No, unless you're going to be so low that you bottom out on every pothole. Grab some extended top hats instead

3. I believe the off-the-shelf rates are only in the 300lb/in range? Definitely too soft if you're going to be at a 2" drop.

 

1) No, camber kits not needed.

2) If you decide to stay with stock top hats (I was pretty low and never had a problem with stock top hats) then just keep your stock bump stops, but cut them in half, if they are still in good shape. If they're not in good shape, then grab some new OEM bump stops, cut those in half, and install them on the shocks.

If you DO decide to go with GC upper mounts, they come with their own bump stops. However you only need those for the front, not for the rear. The rear has plenty of room to stay with stock top hats. So for the rear, apply what I just said above to the rear bump stops.

3) I think a good rate would be around 400-450 lb/in 8" front springs, and around 300 lb/in 7" rear springs. I used to have 380 8" front and 450 7" rear springs and the ride was very harsh on long commutes with poor road quality. Rear springs affect ride quality the most, so I would go with a bit stiffer front springs to help prevent bottoming out, and softer rear springs. If you feel that doesn't handle well or the rear doesn't come around the way you like it, you can always add a larger rear sway bar w/ ASR subframe brace.

 

Thank you both for those realy good answers and great help. I hope I can choose spring rate at Weaksauce. I'm waiting for their answer. I also find store with some lower price so... I hope for the best.

 

im in the same process you are my friend. if its not to much to ask when weaksauce gets back to you, lmk if its possible to get custom spring rate with extended top hats. thanks buddy, good luck with your set up.

 

you've got koni adjustables .. so you don't have to worry so much about springs IMO.

I've got konis with eibach sportlines, and depending on how I adjust the rear the car gets from very hard bumpy ride to a soft comfortable ride ..

currently I keep soft back and hard front.

 

Hi! Finaly!






Now I must(!) say I'm more than happy with this setup! But now... more Q on the horizont. So if you can help... PLEASE!

My setup is (from the grount to the upper point on arch fender - I dont know how to say this) on 57cm/22,4 inch. Is this to low for 'OEM parts' or it is still ok? I'm not racer, so this ride is for my soul and joy and not to f* destroy it!
When is the time or hight when I must concider to buy front or/and rear camber kit?

THANK YOU!!!

 

You shouldn't have any problems at the ride height in that pic there. Really nice, clean look IMHO. But, what spring rates did you get?

You shouldn't need any camber kits ever, as long as you get an alignment so that the toe is set to factory specs.

Also, did you reset your bushings for the new ride height? If not, do that before you get it aligned. Lift up one end of the car, put on jack stands, remove wheels, and then place the jack under the lower control arm on each corner. Loosen all bolts that have bushings rotating around them when the suspension moves up/down (like control arms bolts, shock fork bolts). Use the jack to raise the suspension until that corner just lifts off the jack stand, and then tighten/torque the bolts to spec.

Now your bushings are reset for your ride height, and you shouldn't have any settling problems.

 

Well done, that's a nice stance.

 

Definitely reset your suspension bushings as Patrick mentioned. And do so before you get an alignment. This will keep your suspension in good shape for many years to come.

Cool pic. I got one very similar...



BTW: Where's your break hose bracket?

 

EKs only have a brake hose bracket attached to the knuckle. So it goes from the hardline, to the knuckle, to the caliper

BTW: did polishing your koni's do anything to the warranty?

 

I think the EK still has some type of ring around the stock shock body to help keep the fork from slipping up on the shocks.

 

THANK YOU VERY MUCH! I'm from Europe/Slovenia and not so good in technical terms, but I will figure it out all this so.. TNX again!

 

is reseting the bushings important? what happen if you dont reset them? whats the torque spec for the bolts?

 

If you don't reset the bushings, the bushings will have more stress on them and could eventually start to slip or even tear, causing the car to "sag", which is sometimes mistaken as the springs sagging.

 

nice choice, GC/Koni's are the way to go.

 

I dunno cause I've never had a problem with them. I brought it up to CRX Lee (Koni rep) a couple years ago and he said it would certainly raise an eyebrow if I had to send them in. When I stripped the paint, I was extra extra careful to keep the chemicals on the outer shock body only and well away from the shaft & seals...

I then used a coarse wire-cup brush in a drill, followed by an alcohol rub down, several coats of bulldog adhesion promoter and followed it all up with a few coats of Rustoleum Clear coat...



More pics:
http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p53/94eg/?start=40

 

what spring rates did you end up going with?

 

Is it me or did powerpig put the rear GC sleeves on the front? I thought the rear shocks get the longer sleeves while the front get the shorter length.

 

it doesn't matter