I bought this header last year, the fitment on the head is perfect, its a side exit header:


but when we tried to install the header in the car, we couldn't because it hits this part of the car, I forgot what it's called, so the header sits a little higher and won't align with the bolts on the head:


Nevermind the flex pipe, I just didn't have time to take it off.
So my question is this: Is there an aftermaket piece that's thinner so I can make room for my header? Or would it be possible modify it of grind part of it? Since the traction bars are linked to it, I thought there might be something aftermarket, I look on ebay but didn't find anything so if you guys know what to do or what to buy I would really appreciate it if you could help me, thanks.

 

thats the front cross member.

i have seen people hack into it...
but i would get one of these...

http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net/TBS.html

that will replace that whole front cross member.
and it will help with traction.

 

I really hope you have a serious build to use a header like that.


Go with the ESP traction bar.

 

^ there is no need for a serious build for a high quality header like that...
he will still make a GOOD amount more power with everything being stock... or with some minor head work or something..

 

Well I think my header is going to perform well with this:

My build consists of:
H22 Crower stage 2 cams
H22 Crower dual valve springs and retainers
H22 Ferrea valve seals
H22 Ferrea valve guides
H22 head port and polished with a 3 angle valve job
H23 re-honed block
H22 Type s pistons
H22 ARP head bolts
H23 Probe Industries connecting rods
H23 micropolished and balanced crankshaft
H23 OEM main and rod bearings
Innovative plyurethane motor mounts
That's basically the complete motor build and everything will be balanced in order to be able to rev up to H22's specs.

Now with the air flow:
Skunk 2 70mm TB
H22 OEM Intake Manifold, ported and polished and match ported to 70mm, I also bought a separate piece for the TB with had something removed, forgot what it was, but it's welded on both sides.
KMS EGR blocking plate
Custom made race header, here's a pic:





I don't know how loud it will be, but it's an side exit header, that's it, not cat or pipes, just the header.
I will be using a BPI flowstack instead of a cold air intake.

Fuel system upgrades:
RC 440cc fuel injectors
AEM fuel rail
Aftermarket, I forgot the brand, Fuel Pressure Regulator

I'm also installing:
Findanza cam gears
Greddy racing timing belt and balancer belt
MSD 6al box, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD spark plug wires, MSD distributor cap, Nology Silver spark plugs.
Gates racing 160 degrees thermostat.

Transmission:
Clutchmasters Stage 2 clutch
Clutchmasters 8lb flywheel
Weapon R short shifter adapter.

ECU management will consist of Hondata s300 with vtec ecu

A/C system will be completely removed
Cruise control will be removed as well as many emission parts, vaccum hoses, lines etc, and tuck most of the wiring just to clean up the engine bay a little.

 

That traction bar is kind of expensive, I couldn't find a cheaper replica on ebay, so I guess I have no choice!

 

well how little is a little? depending on how much you need to move it, i don't think it'll kill you to grind a bit off the cross member. what are we talking about a few mm? or are we talking like an inch?

 

Probably like an inch, you're right, I'll try to grind first.

 

If its in the way by that much then your only options are to notch it and box it back in, or get traction bars to replace it.

 

ill tell you how loud it is going to be..
REALLY EFFIN LOUD.

 

That's what I thought, I'll just wait and see who wants to buy the header so I can buy another one that actually connects to the cat back exhaust,

 

i'll trade you

 

Don't go cheap on the traction bar. Poorly designed copycats will only tear up your suspension, the geometry of the traction bars are critical.

Notching it won't solve your problem with the side exit since the collector basically sits where the stock crossmember is. That header is probably made for an H22 in a Civic (which doesn't require a front crossmember). Your other option is to get solid mounts and remove the crossmember itself. The engine will be stable with SOLID engine mounts.

 

I have the Innovative polyurethane engine mounts, they're the 85a, but what would I do with the two bars that connect to the crossmember if I remove it?
What do you want to trade Altercreations?

 

You can't remove the crossmember. As you already have noticed.

Get rid of the header and move on with life.

 

I'm just gonna sell this header and get another one that won't cause me any fitment problems, thanks guys!!

 

Put a traction bar on it and be done with it... All those engine mods and no traction bar