Newb with a 94 Accord EX - need help
Hi guys! I just picked up a 94 Accord EX coupe from my neighbor for a daily driver... need your help with a few things:
Here's the list he gave me when I got the car of things that don't work or need fixed:
1) The driver's window doesn't work? He said the cable broke a number of years ago and he locked in the up position with pieces of aluminum.
2) The locks don't work on the car? Fuse #38???
3) The speedometer doesn't work very often?
4) The float in the gas tank is bad? It will show on Empty and still have about five gallons in the tank. The light works though... so that is when I get concern about getting gas...
5) the dashboard lights don't work when you turn the headlights on?
6) Air Conditioning works, but it will stall the car when idling? Just adjust the idle up a little more?
7) Numerous shakes and rattles? Especially when applying the brakes but it's not rotor noise it a vibration under the hood?
Already found the code for the radio and have that working again!
Let me know if there are fixes for the stuff above. I've been a backyard mechanic and worked on muscle cars for years... but this is my first Honda. It does have the VTEC though! (c:]
I look forward to your reponses... the price was right for the car and even with 200K-ish miles on it I hope to get that many more from it...
V/R,
Ty
Here's the list he gave me when I got the car of things that don't work or need fixed:
1) The driver's window doesn't work? He said the cable broke a number of years ago and he locked in the up position with pieces of aluminum.
2) The locks don't work on the car? Fuse #38???
3) The speedometer doesn't work very often?
4) The float in the gas tank is bad? It will show on Empty and still have about five gallons in the tank. The light works though... so that is when I get concern about getting gas...
5) the dashboard lights don't work when you turn the headlights on?
6) Air Conditioning works, but it will stall the car when idling? Just adjust the idle up a little more?
7) Numerous shakes and rattles? Especially when applying the brakes but it's not rotor noise it a vibration under the hood?
Already found the code for the radio and have that working again!
Let me know if there are fixes for the stuff above. I've been a backyard mechanic and worked on muscle cars for years... but this is my first Honda. It does have the VTEC though! (c:]
I look forward to your reponses... the price was right for the car and even with 200K-ish miles on it I hope to get that many more from it...
V/R,
Ty
Ok I know a few here for you.
2. If he says its that fuse than check it and replace it.
3. 5th gen accord's are famous for the speedometer's going out. Some work but, some do not. Just go to a local junkyard and find a used cluster and have your dash already disassembled and swap the new one in and tell them you just want to test it. Make sure it works, and you are good to go. The disassembly to get to the cluster I believe is in the FAQ guide, if not pick up a Haynes or Helms manual, they can tell you.
4. If the float is bad then replace it. It is called the fuel sending unit. What you will need to do is buy one. Then flip down the back seat. Pull up the little trunk carpet type deal. Still sitting on top of the folded back seat (you should be looking into the trunk towards the lid), you should see a little gray metal circle to the left. That is the sending unit cover. I think there is a couple screws on top. Take it off. Then under that is the electrical connector for it. Unplug it. Take an ohm meter across the center one and right one. You should get an ohm reading. With a full tank of gas around 4 ohms; empty should be about 120 I believe. If nothing or completely off (like 120 ohms with a full tank of gas), then that really is bad. You can then unbolt the sending unit there and pull it out and drop the new one in, there should be a gasket that goes in between there too so make sure you have one or pick one up. Be careful when replacing because you will be dealing with the gas tank, A BIG CONTAINER FULL OF FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS........do not spark anything around you. Thought I should warn you. A service manual like the Haynes or Helms will cover this replacement of the sending unit more thoroughly.
5. If by dashboard lights you mean the cluster like the speedo and the gas and engine temp gauges then it could be a few lights in the cluster. When you go to replace the cluster, see if they work with new cluster. If not then it is either A. The new clusters lights are out/missing or B. The Dimmer switch on the dash is broken or not plugged in. If unplugged the dash board controls like moon roof, cruise and all that won't light up.
7. For the shakes and rattles, maybe check the engine mounts torque? If they are not properly torqued down all the way then that might be the issue, snug 'em up a little. The only other way to tell is to open the hood with engine running and turn the throttle cable holder (forgot the name) attached to the TB/Intake Manifold.
Hopefully some of this will help bro.
2. If he says its that fuse than check it and replace it.
3. 5th gen accord's are famous for the speedometer's going out. Some work but, some do not. Just go to a local junkyard and find a used cluster and have your dash already disassembled and swap the new one in and tell them you just want to test it. Make sure it works, and you are good to go. The disassembly to get to the cluster I believe is in the FAQ guide, if not pick up a Haynes or Helms manual, they can tell you.
4. If the float is bad then replace it. It is called the fuel sending unit. What you will need to do is buy one. Then flip down the back seat. Pull up the little trunk carpet type deal. Still sitting on top of the folded back seat (you should be looking into the trunk towards the lid), you should see a little gray metal circle to the left. That is the sending unit cover. I think there is a couple screws on top. Take it off. Then under that is the electrical connector for it. Unplug it. Take an ohm meter across the center one and right one. You should get an ohm reading. With a full tank of gas around 4 ohms; empty should be about 120 I believe. If nothing or completely off (like 120 ohms with a full tank of gas), then that really is bad. You can then unbolt the sending unit there and pull it out and drop the new one in, there should be a gasket that goes in between there too so make sure you have one or pick one up. Be careful when replacing because you will be dealing with the gas tank, A BIG CONTAINER FULL OF FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS........do not spark anything around you. Thought I should warn you. A service manual like the Haynes or Helms will cover this replacement of the sending unit more thoroughly.
5. If by dashboard lights you mean the cluster like the speedo and the gas and engine temp gauges then it could be a few lights in the cluster. When you go to replace the cluster, see if they work with new cluster. If not then it is either A. The new clusters lights are out/missing or B. The Dimmer switch on the dash is broken or not plugged in. If unplugged the dash board controls like moon roof, cruise and all that won't light up.
7. For the shakes and rattles, maybe check the engine mounts torque? If they are not properly torqued down all the way then that might be the issue, snug 'em up a little. The only other way to tell is to open the hood with engine running and turn the throttle cable holder (forgot the name) attached to the TB/Intake Manifold.
Hopefully some of this will help bro.
1) the 5th gen Accords have a problem with their power windows. Especially the coupe. Replace the window motor regulator unit with a Honda Genuine. I tried to go the cheap way, but let's just say it was a best experience. Easy fix.
4) I have the same problem. The light doesn't come on when the needle was on empty. But I tested the light and it does work. I think there's lots of people who had this problem. It's normal i guess.
6) I had this happen to my dad's Mitsubishi Galant. He doesn't turn on his A/C on often and it just stalls the engine. I'm guessing there is some lubrication from the freon. You might wanna try revving the engine to prevent it from stalling then turning on the A/C. It works for my dad's car. Works fine after that.
Good luck!
4) I have the same problem. The light doesn't come on when the needle was on empty. But I tested the light and it does work. I think there's lots of people who had this problem. It's normal i guess.
6) I had this happen to my dad's Mitsubishi Galant. He doesn't turn on his A/C on often and it just stalls the engine. I'm guessing there is some lubrication from the freon. You might wanna try revving the engine to prevent it from stalling then turning on the A/C. It works for my dad's car. Works fine after that.
Good luck!
Hey The-Kid, both him and I are talking about the float, or fuel sending unit. Not the light. That is why you test the fuel sending unit, before replacing. Mine says full at all times.......quite optimistic to always have a full gas tank lol. I put some gauge faces on and a week later it was like that and months later it has not come down. I have a ground somewhere fu***ng me over. If the unit is bad then replace. If the unit is bad, then look into a fuel gauge possibly.
I'll tell you what everyone told me. Get yourself a Helms manual for that year --- worth every dollar! As for the locks, do u mean the electrical part or the mechanical part. Cant imagine u mean the mechanical part. so at least one lock should work. Uh, I'd check the relay if u mean they dont work from the drivers door panel inside, or where the locks are initiated, perhaps the door where the key inserts.
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