I got a 97 honda accord ex coach edition, however, i want to run a basic turbo setup in my car, shooting for around 300whp max for now.

My question is: Does the stock f22b1 holds 300hp and daily driven ?

Or do i need to get pistons and all that first before trying to go for 300hp

Also, what's the max hp i could get from a bone stock f22b1 turbo'd ? i want to run a turbo setup for the fun of it

 

no! 8-10 psi max stock block

go check out the forced induction section!

pistons, rods, new rings, a tuneable ECU, Better clutch, etc.

 

Yea 300hp is a stretch for a stock block- not to say it cant be done... but for how long is the real question. Most honda blocks tend to tolerate 6-8 PSI daily at max, but in my own opinion any boost what-so-ever will probably shorten the life of any engine with stock internals. If you do decide to boost your stock engine be sure to get a very good tune done on it as this will be a good safety net for that stocker.

Bottom line: stock Honda cranks are nearly indestructible.
Rods are fairly weak, as well as the pistons. A mildly built engine for turbocharging in the 300HP range would consist of paying for head and block machine work, forged rods ($300-700), forged pistons ($400-700) and other misc. dispensible parts such as bearings and seals. Total cost at least over $1000.

As far as reliability is concerned, you can turbocharge on your stock block, but make sure the engine is in good overall shape before you proceed. High mileage engines are not neccesarily a cause for concern- again the physical condition of the engine is whats important. -Good luck with your future build!

 

Ok man, thanks a lot, my engine is really but i mean, reaaaally clean. I will try to take a picture today and re-post so you guys look at it and tell me what do you guys think. Running 6-8 psi is ok with me for now, i just want to have some extra fun with the car before i get serious into building it.

 

Sounds good. Although in my opinion facts are much better than looks! There are tests you can do to your engine to ensure that it will be OK mechanically.

1st- Listen to your engine... float the rpms and listen for any unusual knocking sounds (lower engine knocking to be precise). This could indicate worn rod and/or crank bearings, and a higher pitched double-knock can indicate worn piston pin oil clearances. Knowing what a healthy engine sounds like, and what a worn engine sounds like is by far one of the best diagnosing skills. It does take an experienced ear however.

2nd- Do a compression test. This will tell you the integrity of your piston rings, valves, head gasket and more. A good reading would be about 170-200 PSI for all the cylinders with little variation between all 4. If the compression test comes out unusually low, add some oil to the cylinder and retest. If the readings improve significantly you can suspect the piston rings are worn out. If the readings do not improve with the "wet-test" then you can suspect your valves and seats, or a headgasket problem.

3rd- If the engine fails a compression test do a cylinder leak down test (for those of you that dont know- a leak down test is where you pressurize the cylinders individually with air with the selected cylinder's piston at TDC, and then observe how fast the pressure leaks out and where from). Air should leak out slowly and should not be considered a concern. If leaks out excessivly from the crankcase, radiator, intake or exhaust then a problem may be present.
-Air leaks out the crankcase (bad piston rings)
-Air leaks out the radiator- bubbles in coolant (blown head gasket)
-Air leaks out the intake (bad intake valve(s) or seats)
-Air leaks out the exhaust (bad exhaust valve(s) or seats)

4th- Perform all basic maintenance for peace of mind- even if they have been done recently do it again before boost! This includes:
-Timing belt, balance shaft belt
-Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor
-Thermostat, water pump, hoses
-Oil pump- usually not neccesary to replace, but can be done if a concern is present.
-Oil filter and oil, air and fuel filters
-Rod bearings can be replaced for peace of mind as well and can be done with the engine in the car (just drop the oil pan). These only need to be replaced if you hear lower engine knocking and suspect rod or crank bearings. Crank bearings can only be replaced with the engine out.

If you follow all these steps, there should be no reason why your engine cant tolerate boost. A well maintained engine that you know better than yourself simply becomes an extension of your body in some way. If you leave it up to guessing you can expect some unusual surprizes- haha. Well good luck!

 

Haha wow man thanks a lot! that really helped . However, i did what u said, there is no sounds whatsoever. No little sound, no big sounds, in either lower or high rpm's. The only thing my car do is when i first turn it on in the morning, the the temperature is cold, the car would rev up to 1500rpm's until it warms up then it would normalize. Other than that, nothing at all. I am changing my clutch so i will take a couple of pictures of the engine and some internals for you guys to look at it. I mean, it looks mint to me but you guys are more experienced than me and i want to do the right thing.

Pictures coming up tomorrow night.

 

Sounds good, lets see some pics tommorow!

As far as the high idle when the engine is cold this is normal. All newer honda's do this to bring the engine to operating temperature quicker, for emission reasons as well as engine longevity/wear reasons. The high idle when cold is a result of the FITV (Fast Idle Thermal Valve- a valve that has a small thermostat in it that is heated by engine coolant, and actuates an air valve that allows extra air at a cold start up), and by the air-fuel ratio being slightly richer when the engine is cold.

Good thinking by putting in a new clutch- thats another one of the "maintenance" items you dont want going out on you while under a high boost/high RPM shift...

So far it sounds like you should be OK for some moderate boost. Just be sure to get your ECU chipped and tuned, and get quality critical boost control items like the wastegate, and BOV. You dont want those to fail on a stock engine. Also since you have the F22B1 VTEC engine, you may need to get a VTEC controller module. Although the VTEC on a single-overhead cam engine like your F22B1 doesnt do a whole lot, it can still mess with your air-fuel ratios if your already running boost. And when your running boost, a temporary lean-out condition can quickly cause big problems.

 

Sorry about the pics, it has taken me some time. I am taking it tonight as i forgot the camera today when i went to work to my cat at my friend's house.

Do you think i would be able to run 7 psi safe ? pics coming tonight but i definitely don't see a reason why i shouldn't. I will show pictures tomorrow though. It's unbelievable clean. After i change the clutch i'll upload a video so you could also hear the engine idle and rev-up just in case there's something wrong that my ear won't be able to tel.

 

Geez, it has taken a while, batteries keep dying on the damn camera, i'll see if tomorrow i throw pics. Sorry for da delay.

 

Pictures of my engine at 154,000 Miles.

Sorry it took so long.

 

Wow looks great from the outside! Let's hope the inside of the engine is just as good!

Good luck with your project!

 

This is not true. Im running 20lbs and over 300whp daily driven. no issues for over 25+K mi.


OP-Your motor "looks" great. Still do what was suggested above and if everything comes back good, build your kit on your power goal and go from there. Be sure you dont cheap out on your EMS (S300 or 1060) and pay the money for a reputable tune on a Dyno.(~$450) you wont regret it

 

Damn 20 PSI? You must have a VERY good tune. Hopefully you can continue to put on miles for a long time to come. Thats a tough job on stock internals, but apparently your proof that Honda engines can take alot. We'll see in time!

 

damn yeah, 20 psi XD DAMMN! oh and btw, i did performed the steps given to me before, they all came out good, and i just put a clutch into the car and everything that i had to take off looks perfect, starter looks like new, alternator too, dizzy looks in an amazing condition and you could all see the rest! :D can't get better than this . However, i am going to put at least bearings and a metal head gasket and try to run 14psi dd

Thanks a lot for your help and support.

 

Well in my own opinion, anything over 8PSI on a daily basis will probably shorten the expected life of the engine, but on a good tune and quality bolt on parts you might be able to get away with it for a while. -Keep us updated on your build!

 

I run 8 pounds no problems. (F22b2) I would say 12 psi at most on stock internals. If you run more than that you will need a good tuner. Stock internals on that much psi, not long before grenading and detonation.
NeKe1`s tuner is got to be DAMN good. I asume that is a VERY conservative tune on 20psi with stock internals.
That engine is probably had great up keep aswell. Not every one will have the same success as NeKe has had.
Just be prepared to shell out some extra coin on a few unexpected situations.
GL, keep us updated.

 

Upkeep/general maint is def priority before boosting. I ran 10lbs for a good bit of that time but now i work at a shop with a dyno, so its hard not to put the car on there to see what more i can squeeze out of it. one day its gonna give...

The best part is Dynojet has a xLC (load control) model. Basically it simulates the resistence in the road. So if there are any questionable areas in the map, you can lock down that range so you can finely tune those individual cells. Makes tuning so much easier/effective

....but now knowing my luck it'll prob blow up tomarrow on the way in. lol !

OP- keep us updated with the build ! Turbo Accords are the ****, there need to be more of them out there

 

I always told everyone Honda engines are the S**T... Those things last forever. But dang 20psi??!! thats insane. Def hopefully be able to keep winding those miles on yo baby!! ;-)

 

haha i will, everytime i hit an upgrade in my car i'm going to put up some pics. it may take me some time because i'm still looking for a J-o-B but i know i'll be able to get something with my tax refunds :D at least enough for suspension / rims and the kit.

 

what is "the kit"
PLZZZZZZZZZZ dont say body kit.

 

here i edited that for you lol

 

f22 have the strongest bottom end of any honda engine. i got one in my civic with a 100% OEM 60-1 turbonetics turbo 880cc injectors. this same motor i use to spray with a 100 shot dry and sprayed it every chance i could to. still good compression all the way across and it had the **** abused out of it

 

Nice^^^

 

[QUOTE=AccordInTheMaking;37290854] Most honda blocks tend to tolerate 6-8 PSI daily at max, but in my own opinion
QUOTE]

Could you show me where you found this number? I looooooove seeing this. 6-8 PSI on what turbo y0, a T67, a T25?

 

check out this. i could afford any swap i wanted but i went with a f22 engine. here is a good turbo theard with all f22's. Also check out Bisimoto.com he has alot of performance parts and a 9.4 sec allmotor f22 non-vtec. i just don't think anyone has pushed its limits with a turbo yet. i hope to get 500hp on stock f22 bottom end with bisimoto 1.2 turbo cams in the future.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2Aofficial-f22b-turbo-thread%2A%2A%2A-1983967/