Hello Honda folks,

How are you? I just bought my first Honda. It is an Accord EX with the I4 (2.3l ULEV) coupled with the 5spd manual and it has 86,094 miles on it. I bought it from a Ford dealer in Maryland to replace my reliable but aging GMC Jimmy (the truck was succumbing to rust even though the truck had only 79,937 miles) It was selling for $6400 so I reviewed the Carfax report and looked it over(I was trained as auto tech and worked as one till I hurt my back and decided to go back to college and get a desk job)


As this is my first Honda, I have been reading these forums to see what I can expect regarding this type of vehicle. I am not a stranger to being around Honda’s as I have friends that have them and my brother had a 94 Civic until two months ago, but I have not dealt with one daily.

I got it at a Ford Dealer that my family has bought several cars from and that I worked there while I was in school, so I know that the car is as it should be mechanically and that was being sold in MD, there is a rigorous state safety inspection, so all is good on that end and the Carfax shows it as a one owner car without any problems (i.e. flood, fire, accident etc)

Other then a couple of small rust spots (which they will fix this week) it seems like it is good shape

But what are the problems of this generation of Accord (1998-2002)? I know about the automatic transmission problems but as I have a 5spd, I don’t have to worry about that one.

Are they head gasket prone?

Anything I need to worry about? Or does regular maintaining all that I need (i.e. oil changes, timing belt etc)

I am pretty sure that the car has not had its timing belt changed (I get all the records this week on it) and I know that I should get it replaced with in the next 5,000 or 10,000 miles and that I should have the whole enchilada done (i.e. harmonic belt, seals, water pump etc) Does Honda have a package deal where they replace everything in and around the timing belt (i.e. water pump) for certain price?

The Ford dealer gives every car buyer from them life time free oil changes and also offers a life time internal engine warranty(as long as I get annual services from them) but I am not sure a Ford dealer can do a timing system on a Honda.



How much does a dealer charge to do this work (i.e. timing belt, water pump etc)? I have to admit that while I was trained to repair cars, I spent most of my carrier working on Buick, GMC and other timing chaining vehicles and have never dome a timing belt and would rather simply pay a competent auto tech in a reliable shop to do it (allows me the peace of mind that if they damage it, then they have to repair it)


So any quirks that I have to worry about with this car?

Thanks much

Cheers

L

 

Well, first off; Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the forum.

You've got a good combination there with (honestly) very few if any consistant issues.

The only things I might advise you on right off is to try and establish where on the maintaince schedule the last owner left it. Of particular interest is the Timing Belt, and if/when it was replaced.

Also be religious about following fluid change recommendations. Honda's live long productive lives, but they can surcome to some of our foibles about spending money. Often overlooked; when the maintaince schedule calls for it, change out the Brake and Clutch fluids. You'll avoid premature cylinder failures.
I'll leave you with that for now. I'm quite sure others will chime in as well

P

 

Hello P_Adams,

Thank you much for your advice. I assume you mean that by changing out the clutch and brake fluid at proper intervals will preserve the brake and clutch master cylinders?

I will look through the service papers when I get them BUT I will make the assumption that the timing belt and all of its parts have not been changed as the change interval is 90,000-100,000 miles and this one is hanging out at 85,000+ miles currently. Safe is better then sorry at this.

As I was reading the through the forum, I came across coolant references, do I have to get the coolent at Honda or can I use the same type of coolent that one buys at the local autozone? I was a GM/Ford tech and I dealt with the joy called Dexcool (a most horrible substance that seemed to do more harm then good to the cars it was in.


When I test drove it I had the sales guy drive it for a few miles around with me in the passenger side so I could feel how the car felt shifting through gears and then I drove it myself and was impressed with the engine/ trans as the last car I owned with a manual was a Chevy Beretta and it was very clunky shift linkage wise.


I don't abuse my cars but I don't baby them ether, I maintain them rigously but I will from time to time drive it harshly

Thanks again for your help

Cheers

Leon

 

Yes on the Clutch and Brake Master Cylinders. This service is often overlooked and provokes all manner of threads around here when someone's pedal goes to the floor.
Beretta Huh? Well, it certainly wasn't GM's worst offering (reserved for the 1978 Cutlass Salon) and they have offered better since. I Had the "honor" of driving one to Phili for a conference with the NADA at the (now) newly renovated Adam's Mark Hotel. It did alright for itself.

 

Hello,

Thanks for your reply and help. Should I be using a special coolant for the car or can I get the regular stuff from the auto parts place?

Yes a Beretta 4 cyl(2.2l) with a 5spd, which had 100hp and could not get out of its own way in a tail wind. It was good for the $700 it cost me for it ($200 for the car, $250 for the head(customer brought it to the shop I worked at and dumped it after her found out the head was bad) and $250 for taxes, tags and other things.

Thanks

L

 

I had one as a dealer demo so it cost me the $0. That alone makes one tolerant of just about anything

I sometimes suspect that all antifreeze (it ain't coolant yet ) are not the same dispite being labeled Aluminum inert. GM's was always a little too acidic and liked to eat 60deg v6 intake gaskets.....
For Antifreeze and Automatic Transmission Fluid (not a factor here) I'd stick with Honda.

 

No quarks. Just the automatic transmission, but you have the 5-speed manual which is a good transmission (I have a '99 LX with manual transmission).

You may want to pick up a Helm's service manual for the car, $70 here:
http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.a...K7RM03X5B01893

Also, be sure to browse around here: http://www.handa-accessories.com/accmaint01.html for some good prices on maintenance items (they also have interior / exterior dealer accessories). Pick up some oil filters & crush washers, probably a new drain plug, manual transmission fluid (you'll need three quarts, you'll use a little more than two quarts), etc. You'll see a cabin filter advertised (also called an air conditioning filter), go ahead and change that out. It's behind your glove-box, there are two long, narrow filters. Kind of a pain to get to but it's something that's done only about every three years.

Or buy the stuff from your local dealer. On the transmission fluid, be sure to use Honda branded stuff, it's not that expensive and will give you peace of mind.

One issue that does come up is that the front windows can start to get slow to go up / down. The issue here is that the tracks get dirty - fix this by cleaning the tracks with a q-tip and soapy water. When dry, put a lot of Shin-Etsu grease in the track. It's an industrial strength silicone grease, works great and is available at the website above, or your local honda dealer of course.

With regard to the Ford dealership and it's free oil changes - I wouldn't do it. Five quart jugs of Castrol GTX run about $12 (you'll need 4.5 quarts), add $5 for a Honda oil filter and crush washer. But, for me the most important thing is that I know it's done right plus it gets me under the car where I can look things over while I'm doing the oil change.

 

the timing belt isn't as bad of a job as you may think. Take a look in the Accord FAQ sticky for my timing belt write-up on a F22B1 (similar), that will give you a good idea of what it takes to do that job.

If you decide to do the job that write-up is a good starting place but I would still get a Helm manual as those pay for themselves after a couple times of use and have many step-by-step instructions for various things.

 

Thank you all for your help and advice, I do need to pick up a good repair manual 9My Jimmy had a 5 book set which saved my duff many times)

Out of curiousity, and i did not find a stright answer looking with the search button

Can I switch my manual climate control unit for a automatic (ie the one with the digital temp selector found in the v6 EX in 2001? or do I need the computer module/ wires etc?

Cheers and thanks

L

 

A question I should research, considering it will probably come up again.

Initially I would think it would be more involved than just swapping control heads.
You're swapping a mechanical cable/lever control system to one that uses feedback position sensors, temp sensors and servo's.
They may use the same heater/ac case but the attachments, harness and probable BCM (Body Control Module) would be an issue

P

 

So it is a lever and cable system on the manual climate control system? Such as the 1980's GM models (for example the Caprice)?

I thought it was simple a head that had a connector or two in the back.

I have seen eBay pics of the digital unit but not the manual unit

Thanks

Leon

 

I stand corrected. It appears that the EX shares the same control head as the LX and there are the corresponding servo motors on both the EX and LX heater Boxes. Refer:
a) 2001 LX 4dr Heater Control
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...TROL+%28+01%29
b) 2001 EX 4dr Heater Control
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...TROL+%28+01%29
c) 2001 LX 4dr Heater Unit
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...y5=HEATER+UNIT
d) 2001 EX 4dr Heater Unit
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...y5=HEATER+UNIT

Here's the illustration page for the 2001 EX 4dr V6 Digital Heater unit.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...y5=HEATER+UNIT

Try comparing part numbers. It may start clarifying things.

My confusion came from the system retaining the Hot Water Control Valve Cable (I had replaced one a while ago)

It's all electronic between the control head and the Heater unit. Now if there are harness differences, I haven't determined yet

P

 

One other thing - be sure to go out onto the interstate with a stopwatch, set the cruise to at least three different speeds and go, say, five to ten miles at each speed using those green roadside mileage markers. Come up with the average number of seconds per mile and calculate your true speed in miles per hour, compared to what your speedometer was reading. (3,600 divided by the number of seconds per mile = miles per hour).

Mine ('99) reads four to five miles per hour over the actual speed (it reads 75 when I'm going 71, 80 when I'm going 75, etc etc). And the speedometers are not adjustable. Not a huge issue, but just be aware that your speedometer may be off. A coworker had the same issue with his '99 coupe.

 

Purely intentional on the part of Honda. They do it for two reasons:
1) Gives you that "It doesn't FEEL like we're doing 90"! sensation... and
2) Spares the AARP crowd from untimely speeding tickets

P

 

Hello,

Thank you all very much for your replies. I saw a picture of the back of each and while both of them have connectors, they are not the same. While I am not ruling out perhaps the wire harness itself unclips from the module and one can easily replace one harness with another, I am sort of sure it is not interchangeable


In another question, I am curious as to how long the engine will last.

While I know each engine is not the same and some will lead a hard life, I am curious to the life expectancy of the 2.3l engine.

Lets say the engine is taken care of and not abused and maintained as per manufacture instructions, is it to far fetched to think the 2.3l engine will last 300,000-400,000 miles etc or do these engines have a life expectancy?

Thanks
L

 

Well... If my '97 F22B2 (uncle to the 2.3L L4) is any indication, I would expect it to live to a surprisingly old age. Mine has over 224k on it, and it runs like the day it was first sold. The '88 Spare Accord has 292k on it and starts at least once a week. Now if I could just keep furry woodland creatures from nesting in it......

P

 

Thanks again for your wonderful replies.

I have another question for you folks, are the valve trains noisy in these 2.3l engines? Upon starting the car up and until it is ether warm or moving the there is a slight lifter noise (i.e. rattle) when you put your foot on the gas and quickly tap the pedal and then remove your foot. the sound goes away fully when it is ether driving of warmed up.

Do these engines require valve train adjusting or is this because of the VTEC set up on this engine?

Thanks

L

 

These engines utilize mechanical cam followers which will sometimes require readjustment. "Barely Perceptable" cam follower noise is normal during cold startup, as long as it diminishes once warm (Thermal expansion and such). Honda calls out a maintaince interval on cam follower adjustments, but I often feel it's just a ploy to get you back in the dealership

P

 

Hello,

Thanks for the info. It seems to be noticable in the car to me but it has been a bit time since I drove stick so while relearning again there is a some times when I gun the engine by mistake so i can hear it when it is cold. I suppose the noise is normal then.


Thanks

Leon

 

If you happen to live in a metropolitan area with a dirth of repair shops available; I'd suggest finding an Independent garage in your local area who specializes in Acura/Honda's. There are ALWAYS some around owned by former Honda Techs that gave up on the dealer network, so they should be plentiful.
Pick the cleanest shop you can find and have him start doing any maintaince work you can't accomplish yourself. Once you have gained a rapore with the guy, have him listen to it.
A professional will treat you right; he want's you to keep coming back.

P

 

congrats man! Hondas are what I believe to be basically the best cars available. I have a 2000 Accord 2.3 5 speed with over 140,000 miles, (Minnesota harsh winter, lots of salt). and I have only had 3 parts actually fail that are not considered "wear parts".

1)battery cable, the one that goes to starter. (it corroded in half from salt).
2)Rear wheel bearing @ around 125,000 mi.
3)O2 sensor at @135,000 mi. ...

I would say that's pretty good, eh?

WEAR PARTS
-I had the timing belt done @ 110,000 mi. as preventative maintenance.
-Had the Front Rotors replaced @ 115,000 mi. (wear part).
-I replaced my coolant, spark plugs and wires at around 120,000 mi. (wear parts)
-My front brake pads with ceramic pads last around 40,000 mi. and rears around 60,000 (I do em myself, Wagner Ceramic)
-I changed my cabin air filter at 120,000 mi (8 yrs old)
-I have been using Amsoil 5W30 since I bought it at 41,000 mi. and I change it about every 15,000 miles.
*I have heard that manual Accords tend to need clutches and CV axles at around 175,000 mi.
My experience may not be typical but I think that it is!!

 

Hello,

As always you folks give very good advice. P_Adams, your advice is very sound and I will look into it. I think the timing belt/waterpump etc are the only things I need to have a shop do because I have not done a timing belt before but everything else, I think I can do with the help of a shop manual etc.


Blamm! So your car has held up in the snow and the rock salt? My car came from New England. According to the dealer and the carfax the thing was bought in Mass and used there until 2004 when it came down to Maryland for another 4 years before I bought it


Here is another question for you folks, I noticed that on my left rear tire was low today and filled it up after filling the thing up I noticed that there was a slow leak coming from the valve stem (I could hear and feel it), The valve stem or core or both is bad on this tire. I am taking it back to have them replace the valve stem on the tire and the other 3 as a precaution. I was also wondering if the 1998-2002 EX had a 15inch rim in steel or were they all alloy rims? If not the EX were any of the other 1998-2002 Accord (i.e. DX, LX etc) offered with 15inch steel rims? If no then will a 14 inch steel rim from the 1998-2002 Accord series work on my car? Something like on the LX?

I hate the look of the current ones and at their age I fear I am going to wind up dealing with the same problem I had with the last car I owned with Alloy Rims. I fought a loosing battle with a rim that kept leaking due to age and don’t want ot deal with that again.

Will going to a 14 inch rim hurt my car (i.e. brakes or ABS etc)?

Thanks again

L

 

Honda Alloys have little problems with pourosity and if properly maintained will remain clear and bright.
I'm surprised that you had a bad experience before with a pourous rim.
There is a proceedure available where the rim's interior is cleaned and painted with a rubberized paint.
That and making sure the rim's bead area is properly cleaned during tire work usually takes care of the problem.
Your valve stem issue is most likely caused by either a loose schrader valve or some dirt/ice got into it. Minor repair.

Your EX UL should have an alloy 15x6 4Lug Wheel
PN# 42700-S84-A31 (jj)

The 2001 Accord LX UL(v) came equipped with a 15x6 4 Lug Steel Wheel
PN# 42700-S84-A11
With associated wheel cover:
PN# 44733-S84-A20

Refer: http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa_p...onGroupID=3263

I'm not advocating that you got with Honda Rims exclusively, but yes Honda offered a 15x6 steel wheel version (4 lug) for the 2001 Accord LX UL.
The DX came with a 14" steel wheel also, and although it will fit; it will require a "taller" tire (taller side wall) to maintain the proper tire diameter. There 'could' be some handling degradation with the taller tire.

Other places like TireRack.com and Wheelsnext.com are not listing Steel Wheel / Tire combo's, just Alloy based.

Perhaps a 'half hour on Google will scare something up.

P

 

Hello There,

Thanks for your info. I would naturally be buying 4 new tires for the 14 inch rim. But I did not know the Accord was offered a 15 inch steel rim. The local junk yard should have a set of steel 14 or 15 inch Accord rims (I think the stock steelies go for cheap as everybody changes them out

Also will the spare tire well accommodate a full size 14in or 15 in instead of the donut?

Thank you again

Cheers

L

 

So here is a problem for you guys,

I was driving the car from my home to the dealership in order for them to take care of some warranty work.(I get a 3 month regular warranty on the car) the dealership is 10 mins away and it is between 2 stop lights. At the second stop light i smell something burning and the car stopped funny (like rear drum brakes in freezing temperature) and when i get to the dealership, I see the left rear brake rotor glowing bright orange.

Now to go back when the car was looked over by me before I bought I noticed after my test drive that the back left wheel had a burning smell and small wisp of smoke, the dealer took it around and had them put it on the lift and check it over and it was thought that perhaps ice got into it. (it was a plausible answer because, it had snowed two days before and there was ice)

The first two days I drove it, (Monday, Tuesday) it was fine and drove well (about 150 miles distance) but today when i drive it to the dealer at about 830pm, the thing is glowing orange and I feel another ten minutes the car would have been on fire. The car is not safe.

Yes I made sure the parking brake was off when driving.

What could be the problem? I feel it is a stuck caliper

Thanks

L