car is converted obd1 with a jumper harness and custom made dual point to si converted engine harness.

with the tps connected i get codes 6 and 10 right away without the service connector being jumped

once i disconnect the tps my codes go away and the check engine light goes on then off like its supposed to once the key is turned on...

the two signal wires of the tps ohms together with the PA sensor plugged in..
it is my understanding that the PA sensor is in the ECU itself on a usdm p28..
...this is a brand new main harness and engine harness..

i switched the two outer wires on the tps when i did the multipoint conversion..

when i ohms the tps ground wire (green) to the theromstat i get OFL and also when i go to the battery (i think this is why it appears the service connector is jumped)..any ideas? i soldered/heatshrinked all connections, ecu works on a known good vehicle. i tried multiple working tps'....

ive switched the wires again on the tps and the chicken light now comes on only when the gas is floored.

my question is how could the service connector not be jumped and my ecu is still flashing codes? d4 is not grounded on my p28. i know that when d4 is grounded it taps into the common ground for all of these given sensors (tps, iat, cts)...

 

switch em bck an see what happens! lol so when the tps is unplugged it doesnt get a check engine light? but just runs like ****?

 

havent tried starting it...doesnt work with the wires switched...i think it shares a common ground with a dizzy circuit ill check my dizzy jumper

 

something wasnt done right on your engine harness mpfi conversion. either start over from scratch or back track and try again, code 6 is water temp sensor and 10 is iat, the iat plug is similar to the tps plug i believe and sometimes gets confused when people do the mpfi conversion. also be sure that all your grounds are secure.

 

the iat is a 2 prong plug where as the tps is a 3 prong..people normally confuse the iat and the idle air but i did not as the idle air clip is green...

 

update

rewired the dizzy jumper, something is wrong with the common ground at the etc, tps, iat, etc.. the car will run after u crank it and let it sit...but only for 2 seconds until the unburnt fuel is burned...

car will not run with the tps unplugged...

and ideas?

 

i was once told by a very smart man. decide whether or not you want to be your own mechanic. If not, let a professional handle it. If you want to be your own mechanic i suggest buying a dealer repair manual for your vehicle, if you don't have one already. These books lay it out black and white what needs to be done to diagnose a certain problem.

 

your gonna have to go thru your harness again to find out the problem....maybe something is shorting out?

 

jackass, first of all i am my own mechanic, second there is no chiltons manual for a hybrid swap with hybrid harness- you have to piece together info from several different sources. if you dont have any valid information related to ecu circuit d22 aka the common ground that all of these sensors share keep your info to urself...

 

The first person to post something usefull and you call him a jackass....classy.

Get a FACTORY service manual, not a Chilton's, for the car the ECM came from. From there you have two options (which I would follow in this order):

1) Follow the diagnostic flow charts for the codes you have.

2) Retrace the entire engine harness, including grounds, from the ECM pinout page.

 

look guys, i appreciate all info but what your telling me is useless. this is a hybrid B series obd0-obd1 conversion. the engine harness does not match a car that comes with a p28 in case you guys did not realize. getting a factory manual for a p28 will tell me next to nothing unless it includes the internal ECU circuits (which i have yet to see) - you can download the manuals at hondahookup.com anyways which ive done. all the flowcharts have you do is the 3 basic electrical test steps to begin with (sensor ohms values, wire ohms values and voltage and gruond tests). im not here to bash but stop haggling me like i said if you dont have any good info on circuit d22 and d4 just leave the thread alone, im not looking for people to tell me to go read information ive already researched.

 

The service manual gives you the ECM pinout, you do not need to know the internal circuits.

You say you have read the flow chart, yet you are testing the TPS circuit in ohms to ground, no where does it instruct you to do that. Test voltage relative to the ECM, because voltage drop is the only reliable way to perform the test.

Also repeat the CORRECT tests for the other codes.

For all tests pay close attention to the instructions, because if you have mistakenly inverted two wires on the same sensor it will not function.

If none of that solves the problem, do as I posted previously and do a complete test of the harness by following the ECM pinout.

The problem is in your wiring or a component, if you have tested the components, then obviously you caused a problem in your wiring.

 

dude i already have the ecm pinout - d22 is sg2...which is pin 22 on the D clip..
there are 2 other wires, a 5v out and the signal back to the ecu

with the ecu plugged in and the tps disconnected there should be .2 ohms to neg battery terminal...this is important to ensure that the ecu is correctly grounding the circuit...

i have now verified this as the ecu completes the ground circuit to these sensors and therefore has to be plugged in.

as far as backprobing the calibrated tps to ensure there is no voltage drop.. i have yet to do that and your correct as far as eliminating that aspect. i will let you know of my findings tomorrow.

d4 is completely elimated from the equation therefore the check engine light should not flash any codes - even tho it is with certain combinations of the ect, iat and tps being disconnected/connected. the only way this can be done is if a circuit in the ecu itself is being grounded when its not supposed to, thats why i am trying to find someone with knowledge of how the ecu itself works. the car should still start without the TPS plugged in -but it doesnt. something is happening to what i suspect is my ground signal - with an open ground the ecu would determine that the sensors are at its max limits and thus dump fuel due to lower limit readings of the ect, iat, tps. this may explain why i am able to start the car briefly after several minutes of letting it sit after cranking?

 

did this engine run before u put it in ur car? are u sure there isnt any other problems.. the engine should start with out one or a couple unplugged sensors.. maybe the problem lies somewhere else? why wont it start?

 

engine ran in another car before swap..

i have a jdm **** jumper harness but everything seems to pinout correctly...

 

The t-stat housing ground is what your after I believe. If you have a bad ground in one area the ecu can backfeed itself from other sources which causes all sorts of wierd problems.

 

thanks...theoretically i could beef up the grounds to each sensor and wire it to another chassis ground without messing up ecu signals right?

 

Check your wiring diagrams to make sure none of the grounds you are adding are ones that only go to the ecm and not to a common ground.

Really I would keep checking your pinouts there should be no need to have to wire grounds for each sensor. You should have a ground at the t-stat and make sure you have one running from the engine to the chassis.

 

no

 

backprobed and calibrated tps, getting .5 at closed throttle 4.4 at wot...cleaned and beefed up the thermostat grounds, still not working...does pin d19 and d20 matter if they are switched on my jumper harness (between the c13 and c15 - 5v of the tps and 5v of the map?) - the 5v should be the same still im assuming