front crossmember help

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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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Default front crossmember help

i just got a new crossmember with the steering crap in it and its no quite complete i have a extra 1 that is complete but i dont know how to get the old steering crap out of it help would be apreciated

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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 06:25 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

Unbolt everything and take it out.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

realy now way your a genious why didnt i think of that o wait i did, theres not to much you can unbolt
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 06:33 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

You can unbolt the rack from the crossmember, remove the lines(if it has p/s).

What do you want?
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 06:34 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

thats been done because its out, but the lines they dont get short enough it seems unless theres more under the brush guard or whatever
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:04 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

anybody else have some ideas
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:13 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

buy some traction bars
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:17 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

Originally Posted by thorclark
buy some traction bars
Wrong crossmember...

Its the rear he's concerned with.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

Originally Posted by spens 91 Ef
anybody else have some ideas
I'm not quite sure I understand, exactly what you are trying to do.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:20 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

no its the front crossmember, the steering crap on it is not complete and the other 1 i have is nicer and cleaner and just want to pull the 1 out in it now and put the other 1 in it sounds simple
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:27 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

understand
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 10:20 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

It appears that what you have there is a non-power steering rack. There are 4 bolts (2 which are visible in your first picture). The other 2 should be about the same distance from the passenger side. Once you have all 4 mounting bolts removed, you are going to have to pull on one of the tie rods all the way to one side. This will give you more room to wiggle the rack and pinion out.

Then you just pull the rack and pinion away from the crossmemeber, and pull it toward the side you pulled the tie rod out from. Lift that end out, then pull that sucker off.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 10:22 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

P.S. the rack and pinion is the tube looking thing with the little skinny metal rods sticking out of both sides. The skinny metal rods are called tie rods. Not trying to insult your intelligence, just trying to help because it seems like you're a bit confused...
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 10:24 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

the EF has 2 front crossmemers, one to house the steering rack and lca's, and one in the very front which the stut rods to connect to.

unbolt the rack, and anything else attached to it and swap everything over. not much more to it.

what is the crap are you speaking of?
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 10:57 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

It's a MUST to take off the outer AND inner tie rods. You CAN NOT remove the rack without doing so. Also, very hard to tell by your pics, but you also need to take off the coupler that attaches to the steering column. LITERALLY you should have just the rack and pinion complete and your crossmember, there should be no other nick nacks and parts attached to be able to remove it.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 11:09 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

Originally Posted by Clipsed
It's a MUST to take off the outer AND inner tie rods. You CAN NOT remove the rack without doing so.

False.


I just did it last week with the rear crossmemeber still mounted to the car AND both tie rods still connected. Check your service manual if you don't believe me.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 11:11 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

Either way, I found it way easier to do it with the inner and outer tie rods off.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 11:15 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

Originally Posted by Clipsed
Either way, I found it way easier to do it with the inner and outer tie rods off.

The reason it is preferable to keep the tie rods installed when removing the steering rack is because the lock washers will break if he removes them. They are $5 each from the stealership, and that is $10 that he does not need to throw away if he can avoid it. If you want to know how I know that they will break when they are removed or how I know how much they cost, just ask me. I was the idiot who didn't read the service manual all the way through before I did the remove and replace...
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 05:42 AM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

Originally Posted by aasarsak
P.S. the rack and pinion is the tube looking thing with the little skinny metal rods sticking out of both sides. The skinny metal rods are called tie rods. Not trying to insult your intelligence, just trying to help because it seems like you're a bit confused...
ya i am i just dont know what the steering stuffs called and dont feel like looking it up
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 06:27 AM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

the rack does come out without pulling the tie rods off. it just takes a bit of wiggling once everything is unbolted. i have a spare rear cross member if anyone wants it. i built a new one that weighs half as much.
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 10:58 AM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

Originally Posted by weiRtech
i built a new one that weighs half as much.

really?
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 10:59 AM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

Originally Posted by spens 91 Ef
ya i am i just dont know what the steering stuffs called and dont feel like looking it up

Let us know how it works out...
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 06:38 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

ok i got it out 1 of the arms was already out when i got it so i just played with it for a bit and it came out, but i had to pull both of the arms off to put it back in
https://honda-tech.com/forums/appearance-build-threads-122/my-new-project-91-ef-2382232/

Last edited by spens 91 Ef; Feb 1, 2009 at 06:52 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 10:29 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

Glad we could help. Make sure you replace the lock washers that go between the tie rods and the rack. If you don't put them back in, there is a chance that they could come loose. Best case scenario if that does happen is your alignment will get thrown off. Worst case is that the tie rods will rotate themselves out completely, and you will not be able to steer the car. You can get a pair of the lock washers from Honda for about $5 each. BTW, now might be a good time to go ahead and replace that rack end bushing, inner and outer tie rods while you have everything off. Could save you a great deal of pain and misery in the future. Just a thought...

Good luck on your project. Remember to never cut corners because it will end up costing you more in the long run. Just save up when you want to buy aftermarket parts and always get the top of the line products the first time you buy them. Cheap or used parts tend to break sooner and perform poorly. Always buy OEM parts like gaskets, seals, filters, etc. directly from Honda. The stuff they sell at autozone is crap. I know it is more expensinve, but OEM Honda parts are the best and they will last the longest. When it comes to working on cars, there is nothing worse than having to do a job twice...

Last edited by aasarsak; Feb 1, 2009 at 10:38 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 01:53 PM
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Default Re: front crossmember help

Originally Posted by aasarsak
Glad we could help. Make sure you replace the lock washers that go between the tie rods and the rack. If you don't put them back in, there is a chance that they could come loose. Best case scenario if that does happen is your alignment will get thrown off. Worst case is that the tie rods will rotate themselves out completely, and you will not be able to steer the car. You can get a pair of the lock washers from Honda for about $5 each. BTW, now might be a good time to go ahead and replace that rack end bushing, inner and outer tie rods while you have everything off. Could save you a great deal of pain and misery in the future. Just a thought...

Good luck on your project. Remember to never cut corners because it will end up costing you more in the long run. Just save up when you want to buy aftermarket parts and always get the top of the line products the first time you buy them. Cheap or used parts tend to break sooner and perform poorly. Always buy OEM parts like gaskets, seals, filters, etc. directly from Honda. The stuff they sell at autozone is crap. I know it is more expensinve, but OEM Honda parts are the best and they will last the longest. When it comes to working on cars, there is nothing worse than having to do a job twice...
i dont quite understand what your talking about are you talking about the little gasket for the crossmember that is further up towards the front end
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