obd2 gsr motor into 91 CRX dx
ok guys so my obd2 gsr swap is finally into my crx via mounts and axles...
...i just have to get the damn thing running now.
i bought 91 crx dx shell off of Cheetah on this site. The crx itself is in very good condition body wise. It has an msd ignition box in it which i dont know if ill have to fiddle with in order to get the thing running properly, i think i may just pull the unit altogether.
i bought an obd1 harness off of Cheetah as well because he told me it would work on my obd2 motor swap. turns out the injector plugs, alternator plug and the distributor plug were different.
i swapped the dizzy plugs for obd1 plugs and now they plug in just fine. i also cut the obd1 injector plugs off and soldered on the obd2 injector plugs.
finally i just swapped out the obd2 alternator for a 91 integra LS alternater.
what other problems am i going to run into in order to get this thing on the road.
a how-to or faq would be greatly appreciated, as well as some first hand obd0 -> obd2 swap hands-on experience.
thanks.

...i just have to get the damn thing running now.
i bought 91 crx dx shell off of Cheetah on this site. The crx itself is in very good condition body wise. It has an msd ignition box in it which i dont know if ill have to fiddle with in order to get the thing running properly, i think i may just pull the unit altogether.
i bought an obd1 harness off of Cheetah as well because he told me it would work on my obd2 motor swap. turns out the injector plugs, alternator plug and the distributor plug were different.
i swapped the dizzy plugs for obd1 plugs and now they plug in just fine. i also cut the obd1 injector plugs off and soldered on the obd2 injector plugs.
finally i just swapped out the obd2 alternator for a 91 integra LS alternater.
what other problems am i going to run into in order to get this thing on the road.
a how-to or faq would be greatly appreciated, as well as some first hand obd0 -> obd2 swap hands-on experience.
thanks.

Last edited by i heart honda; Jan 28, 2009 at 09:31 PM.
^That would be your problem. you can't use an obd1 harness on an obd0 car. you need to get a stock dx wire harness and then convert it to mpfi. pain in the ***, but it's what you have to do.
i should've been more clear, i typed that all pretty fast and didnt really explain myself.
i bought a harness CONVERTED from obd0 to obd1, then i switched the injector plugs from that harness to obd2 and converted the plugs on the obd2 dizzy to obd1 plugs.
i bought a harness CONVERTED from obd0 to obd1, then i switched the injector plugs from that harness to obd2 and converted the plugs on the obd2 dizzy to obd1 plugs.
yea you typed it a little quickly i would have to agree
"finally i just swapped out the obd2 alternator for a 91 integra LS dizzy."
lol..
it just seems like the obd2 motor has more plugs on it than the obd1 harness has to offer. one near the crank, one on the thermostat housing and one on the intake manifold. any help?
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i think the intake sensor you're talking about is for evap. the one near the crank is a crank fluctuation sensor aka CKF sensor. as long as you are using an obd1 ecu you don't have to worry about these things because it won't be looking for them. the extra plug on the thermostat you are seeing is your coolant fan switch. you have to extend the wires from the fan switch on the back of the d15 so that it can reach the connector on the thermo housing of the gsr. if you don't your radiator fan will never turn on.
Last edited by D16SiHatch; Jan 28, 2009 at 04:51 PM.
the one near the crank pulley is the obd2 crank position sensor, obd1 uses the dist for that.
the thermostat housing one is the temp sensor that in obd0 blocks has in the back of the block ( i think )
the intake manifold sensor im guessing is the map sensor.
hope that helps.
the thermostat housing one is the temp sensor that in obd0 blocks has in the back of the block ( i think )
the intake manifold sensor im guessing is the map sensor.
hope that helps.
i think the intake sensor you're talking about is for evap. the one near the crank is a crank fluctuation sensor aka CYP sensor. as long as you are using an obd1 ecu you don't have to worry about these things because it won't be looking for them. the extra plug on the thermostat you are seeing is your coolant fan switch. you have to extend the wires from the fan switch on the back of the d15 so that it can reach the connector on the thermo housing of the gsr. if you don't your radiator fan will never turn on.
the chassis i got didnt come with a motor in it so what wire are you talking about extending for the coolant fan switch? the car doesnt current have a rad in it. I'll be putting the linkage and the rad in the car this weekend to get it running hopefully.
the sensor normally on the back of the block for these cars is located on the thermostat housing on obd1+ cars so you have to extend that wire to reach the sensor.
In this picture you can see where the wires end up after its been installed on an obd1/2 engine that doesnt have the coolant fan switch on the back of the block. so you can see that the wires have nothing to plug in to.

so basically extend those wires over to the coolant temp switch on the thermo housing and hook them up. if you can find an appropriate 2 pin harness plug then use that.
Does the swap have the stock intake manifold? You may have to wire up your iab if the harness you got wasnt made for a gsr. Also make sure to use an obd1 p72 if the intake manifold is stock.
if this msd box is wired up, would it be hardwired into the chassis harness or what? i have never owned a car with a modified ignition like this msd box and really dont want to mess with it. id rather just sell the thing.
i really have no clue lol, thats the way the guy that burnt the ecu chip for me did it. he said that i needed that enabled in order for the motor to run properly
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