How hard is it to drop in a K20 motor in the ITR shell? What does something like that cost? The ITR is the car i want to keep forever, so im just preparing to put a new motor in there once this one starts to act up.

 

k20a.org thats ur friend. depends on what k20 you want and how much u got.

 

If i do the swap, i want to use the K motor from a TSX, it has a little bit more torque and it's nice and smooth. Heard they were all the same size?

 

I would go with the K20-R or a K24 with a K20-R head. Just my $.02. Its not a cheap setup, but it can make some serious power.

 

I don't need that much power, i want a smooth motor thats good for daily driving. I really like the transmission on the Type S too....so smooth, my car is running a little rough, you guys might flame me, but im tearing the whole interior apart and putting in dynamat to make the cabin a little quieter. and get some insulation for the hood too, and putting in A/C

 

Money is no issue, im an adult with expensive hobby so shelling out a few grand won't be a problem, this is my child hood dream car, im falling in love with it all over again

 

Stock B-series motor should be smooth enough.

 

Why not just go with another ITR engine? It would be the easiest and cheapest. A K series is more than just a few thousand.

 

ya a k20 r is easily a 7k job if not more. the tsx, rsx, rsx type s and type r are all different. i have no idea who told u they were the same. depends on your budget man ur lookin at an easy 6k though imo

 

another ITR engine is like 4K too isn't it? i mean if the K20 is a direct drop in, then i'd go that route, cuz there are a couple guys around my area parting out their cars cuz it was in accident, non frontal of course...

 

What do you mean direct drop in? It won't just mount up to your stock mounts and connect to your wire harness and start right up, if that is what your thinking. Check out the web site mentioned above. I recomend you just rebuild your stock motor.

 

a k series motor is not a direct drop in. you have to get different mounts, axles, etc etc. all the parts are about 7k including the engine.

friend had one put in his 94 teg that how i know. he spent roughly 7k to put it in given he put the motor in himself so no labor cost...

 

K-swap crap that's NOT "direct drop in":
-Remove passenger side motor mount (drill rivets, grind down, drill new holes)
-Radiator mounting
-Shifter box mounting
-I think with a K24 the hood might need trimming or propping up. Not 100% sure on that though.

Stuff that IS "direct drop in" but is expensive or crappy:
-non-OEM axles of some variety, or mismatched OEM axles
-Fuel system garbage
-Necessary tune (stock ECU won't run engine if I remember right)
-$7K would be a pretty damn cheap swap. I know some people have done it cheaper, and good for them. Average price is closer to $9-10K.

It sounds like you have no idea what's involved. I guess that makes your question legitimate, but seriously, there's TONS of information on K20a.org, and it's organized much better than anything here.

 

Yeah it's not direct drop in, as stated u will need mounts, k20 shifter, plug and play harness, axles, kpro. I thought u were trying to keep your R stock or put it back to stock?

 

Thank you for the info, i guess i don't know what's involved...that's what this board is for...i've been out of the honda scene for awhile, trying to get back into it.




That was one option, but reason i really wanted a stock one because i wanted to start all over. The last owner modded it his own way and there are some things i don't like about it. I like to do things my way, i didn't get any bites from the trade so i guess i will go this route. Not sure if it makes sense, with that in mind, ill have a bunch of stuff for sale soon.

 

for some reason im confused by these 2 statements.. if money is not an issue why don't you want much power?

 

from what im getting he just wants to go a different route...so on that simple note, if you're willing to spend he extra cash and do the extra work, then i'd recommend just going with the K20A (JDM DC5 Type-R). the complete swap would be less of a headache i think as opposed to sourcing out parts for a mr. potato head motor. i have the K20A2 in mine, i love the power and torque, but the only thing lacking is the non-lsd and longer gear ratio compared to the K20A. which is why im investing in the K20A tranny. k24 sure is torquey, but as with the B18C5 vs. H22A...it wont rev like a type-r or type-s because of the head. hopefully some of my insight helps a bit.

 

a D15 is a direct drop in. Cheap too :beeR:

 

you usually get for what you pay for....

 

i think a tear would actually run down my face if i ever heard/saw d-series power coming from a dc2

 

gas saver!

 

All the little stuff starts to add up..

300-400 fuel setup
800-1200 kpro or run PRC ecu (jdm itr ecu )300-400
350 pnp harness
200karcepts kit or hybrid racing new shifter kit ( no cutting )400
200-800 axels you can run aftermarket or hybrid oem ones k inners b outters
300-600 Mounts
150-350Radiator aftermarket or OEM you can use a stock RSX or s2000 radiator if you want.
500-1200 header. there are some generic headers out there but dont want to skimp out on a good header. SSR, hytech ASP etc..


Right there is about 3k easy even just using run of the mill parts it starts adding up. Im at about 10k already with my swap.

 

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a few grand lol? so far i spent 9k on my k20a2 swap and my **** still aint running yet haha

 

Heh. Beat me to it.

And D's R would make some of these guys cry