traction bars on daily driver?
whats everyones opinions on this? i have never even got to look at a car with traction bars, does it really effect driveability? do you lose alot of function? So is it ok or a dumb idea?
If properly designed, it won't be a problem at all.
Your Accord has "traction bars," a.k.a. radius rods, as stock equipment from the factory. Many '88-91 Civics are driven on the street with aftermarket front crossmembers and radius rods as a replacement for the bulky stock parts.
If you use improperly designed traction bars, you will run into problems. Do your research before buying, and don't get caught up in brand hype.
Your Accord has "traction bars," a.k.a. radius rods, as stock equipment from the factory. Many '88-91 Civics are driven on the street with aftermarket front crossmembers and radius rods as a replacement for the bulky stock parts.
If you use improperly designed traction bars, you will run into problems. Do your research before buying, and don't get caught up in brand hype.
well sometimes i don't get caught up with "brand hype" but if i see someone like skunk2 making something, usually i don't question the quality. i don't want some cheap 100 dollar ones off of ebay but i have found a traction bar for 250 made by NRG and one for 330 made by Lakewood (orange ones) and a bar by Avid racing. Familiar or experience with any of these?
im rockin the OG L-CON trackbars on my teg, the only problem i have is hitting bumps and dips in the road because it sits slightly lower then stock frame. but besides that i love them
ya there is no problem at all, except maybe scraping the front crossmember leaving steep driveways, i reccoment full race, i have the b series pro am on my eg6, never a problem and i love the extra traction when i wanna take it to the track.!!!
Trending Topics
Full race bars on my old EJ1 daily driven for 2 years. Only thing I would of done differently is remove them over winter and put the splash guard back in place to keep things clean.
I've dealt w/some ebay CDM EF bars and those were junk. Poor quality metal and under sized. Both flanges broke where they bolt to the under body.
DAs have a bulky cross member and non-adjustable radius rods. There is a difference.
I've dealt w/some ebay CDM EF bars and those were junk. Poor quality metal and under sized. Both flanges broke where they bolt to the under body.
DAs have a bulky cross member and non-adjustable radius rods. There is a difference.
There's no reason traction bars would be a problem on a daily driver unless your car is slammed and hovering the ground. They do hang down a little lower than the factory cross-member so just be aware of that going in and out of driveways. I have the Full-Race bars and love them. Some odd reason it still gets wheel hop on the street sometimes but never on the track, I guess cause it's a smoother surface. But you can see where i've hit mine before lol.








There's no reason traction bars would be a problem on a daily driver unless your car is slammed and hovering the ground. They do hang down a little lower than the factory cross-member so just be aware of that going in and out of driveways. I have the Full-Race bars and love them. Some odd reason it still gets wheel hop on the street sometimes but never on the track, I guess cause it's a smoother surface. But you can see where i've hit mine before lol.










i've been using full race bars since late 05.
if you have a 99-00 si you may run into problems turning. i didn't get full turning radius until i added 5mm spacers to the front wheels. if you have an si and decide to get traction bars i recommend welding some mounting tabs on the LCAs just inside of the shock fork bushing to get the needed clearance.
if you have a 99-00 si you may run into problems turning. i didn't get full turning radius until i added 5mm spacers to the front wheels. if you have an si and decide to get traction bars i recommend welding some mounting tabs on the LCAs just inside of the shock fork bushing to get the needed clearance.
well i have a 95 gsr... man i'm glad you posted some pics!!! everytime i try to find pics of traction bars installed on a car i have no luck at all. thanks for the post!
i got a lakewood traction bar( red one) from my friend for cheap because he crashed his car. he never used it but im contemplating putting it on my eg hatch but not sure how it will affect daily driving and uturns? is the full race bar better than lakewood? its the 50100 Traction Bar for Honda Civic 1992-2000? i had a cheap ebay xbrace before and that felt good but it broke after a while
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
I don't think a 99-00 Civic traction bar will work on a 92-95 Civic. Front bar probably won't bolt up, and the radius arm geometry probably isn't correct.
To check the geometry, pull a string from the rear-most front LCA compliance bushing to where the radius arms attach to the cross bar. If the main LCA pick-up bushing on the subframe isn't directly in line with the string, the geometry is wrong and the radius arms will bind.
To check the geometry, pull a string from the rear-most front LCA compliance bushing to where the radius arms attach to the cross bar. If the main LCA pick-up bushing on the subframe isn't directly in line with the string, the geometry is wrong and the radius arms will bind.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
donaldmejr
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
5
Jul 20, 2006 06:48 PM
JohnnieChimpo
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
41
Dec 20, 2004 09:04 AM








