turbo D -> head gets too hot IMO -> ruins VTEC solenoid gasket, 3rd time now

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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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miro_gt's Avatar
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Default turbo D -> head gets too hot IMO -> ruins VTEC solenoid gasket, 3rd time now

I'm about to put new gasked 3rd time already for 4 years of running with turbo

any suggestions on how to fix that oil leak permanently ?

I have tried with high-temp silicon gasket as well - same oil leak after couple of months.

I don't have an oil cooler.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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Default Re: turbo D -> head gets too hot IMO -> ruins VTEC solenoid gasket, 3rd time now

If it continues to leak even after replacing the gasket, then look towards the actual vtec solenoid or the mating surface between the solenoid and head for the problem.

Most cars other than dedicated track cars do not use oil coolers, what temp is your oil reaching? But anyways, i really doubt that high oil temperatures are causing your vtec solenoid gasket to leak.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 04:14 AM
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Default Re: turbo D -> head gets too hot IMO -> ruins VTEC solenoid gasket, 3rd time now

its turboed so is it not gonna where out sooner than expected?
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 04:40 AM
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Default Re: turbo D -> head gets too hot IMO -> ruins VTEC solenoid gasket, 3rd time now

Being boosted shouldn't affect the vtec solenoid.

More then likely it's the mating surface which has already been mentioned
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 10:26 AM
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Default Re: turbo D -> head gets too hot IMO -> ruins VTEC solenoid gasket, 3rd time now

Straight edge the solenoid mating surface. I have to admit, I've never seen this problem persistantly before.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 10:55 AM
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Icon7 Re: turbo D -> head gets too hot IMO -> ruins VTEC solenoid gasket, 3rd time now

So is it leaking because the gasket gets super-hard and crackley? That's how rubber gets when it overheats. Rubber usually has to get over 270F to get to that point, but oil and coolant rarely get over 220F on a street car. Oil on a race car can get to 240F, and 240F for coolant will cause other issues as well. If its just leaking and still plyable (and not severly flattened), its probably the flatness of the surfaces.

If your fluids are getting too hot, maybe you should run a gsr/hx cooler (I've bought two at $30/ea) and/or a better radiator. One good way to help your coolant system is to heat-wrap your manifold and downpipe. A lot less heat will be sent to your radiator, which is a big issue. My infrared thermometer reads under 200F at the edge of the wrap, while the uncovered DP 1" away is 500F at idle.
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